A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Agio ** 64 N. Northwest Hwy., Palatine; 847-991-2150. The strip-mall exterior of this suburban Italian bistro belies the cozy charm you’ll find inside, highlighted by antique wood (rescued from the old Ambassador East hotel) and a thoroughly modern glassed-in wine room. Marc Montagna offers traditional Italian dishes that occasionally betray his years as a French chef at Le Titi de Paris and Bistro Kirkou. Recommended: Asparagus-crab salad, eggplant Parmigiana, dessert trio. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $12-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Parking lot; wheelchair accessible.
Eivissa * 1531 N. Wells St., 312-654-9500. The much-traveled chef Dudley Nieto, best known for his Mexican cuisine, has changed idioms at this Old Town tapas concept. Nieto has a tendency to overdo the savory-foam-accent-thing, which clutters up some of his dishes, but when he’s keeping things simple, he and Eivissa (the Catalan name for Ibiza) do very well together. . Open: Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sun.; brunch Sun. Entree prices: $13-$20. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Perennial *** 1800 N. Lincoln Ave.; 312-981-7070. Though posited as a casual counterpart to its elegant sister property, Boka, Perennial has many creative, artistic dishes (courtesy of executive chef de cuisine Ryan Poli) that would look right at home on Boka’s menu. At least the budget-conscious prices bear out the relationship; Perennial is a considerably less-expensive proposition. Recommended: Veal breast, scallops and short-rib cannelloni, pork belly with spoonbread, deconstructed cheesecake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Viet Bistro ** 1346 W. Devon Ave.; 773-465-5720. Foodies who mourn the loss of Pasteur can take solace in Dan Nguyen’s current restaurant in East Rogers Park, which is smaller in size and less-ambitious in scope than its predecessor but still delivers terrific Vietnamese food in comfortable and pretty surroundings. Recommended: Beef noodle soup, banh tom, catfish in clay pot, mackerel in ginger-lime sauce. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Fri.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$22. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
