Estrella Negra
2346 W. Fullerton Ave.773-227-5993
3 out of 4 eggs
Loved it: Hand-roasted Chiapas coffee beans, which Michel gets from Star Lounge in Humboldt Park. (Star Lounge, in return, serves Michel’s tamales.)
Hated it: Coffee-mate? Really?
Brunch time: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday
Cost: $10-$15 per person, with tax and tip
Wait: None
The scene: When Otoniel Michel rolled out brunch at his affordable BYOB near the Bucktown-Logan Square border three weeks ago, he went all in: Estrella Negra’s Mexican-leaning brunch menu is available six days a week.
During the week, Michel caters to industry folks. (People who have big nights out on Mondays need breakfast tacos and strong coffee at noon the next day too.) Weekends bring a neighborhood crowd to the colorful, cozy dining room, where quirky touches abound.
A Dia De Los Muertos theme works its way into much of the artwork that adorns the walls, and dishes are identified on the menu with symbols from the Spanish-language children’s card game La Loteria, one of Michel’s favorites when he was young. Breakfast burritos, for example, are designated el tambor (the barrel) because of their shape, while the el corazon (heart) card signifies tamales ($6) — a tongue-in-cheek choice, since they’re made here with egg and chorizo, making them one of the least heart-healthy items on the menu.
The cuisine: Since Michel opened Estrella Negra in November, he’s dropped 10 pounds — not exactly the expected result for someone who works around food all day — but he’s eating from Estrella Negra’s kitchen, and that means plenty of organic ingredients and vegetarian options. He’s hooked on organic blue agave nectar, a natural sweetener served atop whole wheat pancakes with sliced bananas ($8) on the brunch menu. He’s also eating less meat, an easy proposition when items such as croissant breakfast sandwiches stuffed with guacamole, goat cheese, cucumbers and greens ($6) are readily available.
Those el tambor breakfast burritos, though, are just too tasty to be good for you. Spinach whole-wheat tortillas are filled out with house-made bean dip, mozzarella and spicy chorizo scrambled eggs ($8), then smothered in tangy salsa verde. (There’s also a vegetarian black bean, cheddar and egg version, $7.) Beware: The house-made salsa’s habit-forming. If you crave more, you’re in luck. Michel plans to start selling it by the jar within the month. (The mango salsa served with the huevos rancheros, $7, will be available too.)
For dessert or as an OJ alternative, reach for a smoothie ($5). A good evening choice because of their potential as mixers, the thick fresh fruit drinks in flavors such as mango and pina colada also make for an icy morning pick-me-up.
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kpratt@tribune.com
