A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Agio ** 64 N. Northwest Hwy., Palatine; 847-991-2150. The strip-mall exterior of this suburban Italian bistro belies the cozy charm you’ll find inside, highlighted by antique wood (rescued from the old Ambassador East hotel) and a thoroughly modern glassed-in wine room. Marc Montagna offers traditional Italian dishes that occasionally betray his years as a French chef at Le Titi de Paris and Bistro Kirkou. Recommended: Asparagus-crab salad, eggplant Parmigiana, dessert trio. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $12-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Parking lot; wheelchair accessible.
David’s on Jefferson Hill * 43 E. Jefferson Ave., Naperville; 630-548-9393. “Quiet and intimate” don’t describe many restaurants these days, but they sum up this downtown Naperville spot, built into a mansion that housed a long-ago mayor, pretty succinctly. Chef and owner David Oland produces an impressive array of classic French dishes out of a very tiny kitchen, and the budget-friendly wine prices are a big asset. Black tablecloths, votive candles and gentle lighting highlight the romantic dining room. Recommended: Soup duo, king salmon, rack of lamb, chocolate mousse. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$30. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Gaetano’s ** 7636 W. Madison St., Forest Park; 708-366-4010. Seeking out Gaetano Di Benedetto’s food has been a no-brainer for denizens of this near-west suburb, whether at his former La Piazza (which lasted five years) or at the current, self-titled restaurant he opened in 2008. Di Benedetto is a traditionalist with a playful streak, as evidenced by the eight-appetizer “Gaetapas” option (available at the chef’s counter only) and the creative pizza menu offered on Thursday nights (which also are no-cover jazz nights). Recommended: Escolar al mattone, rigatoni alla Trastaverina, butternut-squash cheesecake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $15-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Recommended Thu., weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking weekends.
Nightwood ** 2119 S. Halsted St., 312-526-3385. Nightwood, the sequel to the Logan Square cult-favorite Lula, debuted in Pilsen right around Memorial Day and impresses with its sophisticated American menu, executed nimbly by chef de cuisine Jason Vincent. It may not be the prettiest location in the world (but oh, that plentiful non-metered street parking!), but warm, wood-and-brick interiors compensate, as does a high-walled, cozy outdoor patio. Sunday brunch offers homespun treats such as oatmeal pancakes, house-made doughnuts, and chicken and waffles. Recommended: Chicken liver agnolotti, spit-roasted pork loin, grilled trout, black-cherry tart. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
———-
Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
