As any good fashionista knows, looks can be deceiving.
What appears beautiful on the hanger may not flatter one’s figure, and vice versa.
The same may be true of Chicago’s upcoming fashion week, Fashion Focus Chicago, running Thursday through Oct. 25.
On paper, it could seem like a letdown compared with last year’s eight-day city-sponsored extravaganza, when the paparazzi gathered to snap pictures of a tuxedo-clad Pete Wentz, the Fall Out Boy bassist, who sat in the front row alongside wife Ashlee Simpson-Wentz and kicked off Fashion Focus 2008.
That fashion fest boasted five runway shows attracting 1,000-plus record crowds inside the standing-room-only white tents at Millennium Park.
This year, Fashion Focus is half as long (it’s a more concentrated four-day affair, which may be more appropriate for these times) and admittedly less glitzy (at this point, it’s A-lister free). But those involved say it may be a whole lot smarter.
More akin to New York Fashion Week, Chicago’s 2009 version is less centrally controlled. A few individual designers are hosting their own runway events as opposed to being wedged among others in longer, multidesigner formats. Some are showing at an installation at the Chicago Cultural Center.
The upshot? This edition of Fashion Focus could prove the most varied showcase of local talent to date.
“It’s going to get more and more designers interested,” said local designer Lara Miller, who displayed her spring 2010 collection at New York Fashion Week in mid-September and will participate in two Fashion Focus runway shows, “Macy’s Presents the Designers of Chicago” and “Vert Couture.”
In the past, participating designers often did not select their own music, models or placement within the multidesigner runway shows, which often meant that only a few looks from each talent could be shown.
“It was always really fun,” Miller said of the almost nightly runway shows at Millennium Park, “but you didn’t get to see the full collection.”
This year, designers were encouraged to stage their own events, Miller said, and the city supported such efforts with publicity surrounding Fashion Focus.
A tough act to follow
Despite the more open format, some of the city’s most respected talents — Maria Pinto, Creatures of the Wind (a project of Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters) and DieterBennet — chose to show last month at Fashion Week in New York, not in Chicago.
Pinto said her decision to plan a more artistic fashion installation at a New York flower shop, rather than an all-out runway show during New York Fashion Week, was simple. She runs a small company with limited resources, and New York is where business happens. “That’s where the international buyers and press are, and that’s who we’re trying to reach,” she said.
Chicago’s fashion week is shorter than last year’s, but Miller believes the offerings have expanded.
“It gives designers a completely free, open concept,” she said.
It also gives fashion lovers more choices.
Come Saturday, fest goers can enjoy almost 12 hours of fashion and shopping, with a vintage jewelry trunk show starting at 11 a.m., runway shows set for 2, 8 and 9 p.m., a local designers fashion presentation and sale from 2 to 4 p.m. and informal modeling of various designers’ work and a party from 4 to 6 p.m. (Local retailer Akira is planning a pop-up shop at Millennium Park on Saturday too.)
Stylemax overlap
For the first time, Fashion Focus 2009 overlaps with Stylemax, the Midwest’s largest women’s apparel trade show, at the Merchandise Mart. Miller expects buyers from stores that carry her clothes to turn out for both Stylemax and Fashion Focus.
“The lineup with Stylemax is a major improvement,” said Pierre Colorado, creative director of Chicago-based Blake Standard, which opened a pop-up shop Oct. 1 at Oakbrook Center in Oak Brook.
Melissa Gamble, the city’s director of fashion arts and events, said the potential to attract more buyers and press is no accident.
“Because of the economy, a lot of buyers are choosing to shop regionally rather than going to New York or Paris,” she said. “We want to take the opportunity to introduce them to Fashion Focus.”
The city more aggressively went after buyers as well as national and international press, with Elle Canada and Fox Television showing interest in the complimentary media trips offered in conjunction with Fashion Focus. The city also touts its fashion week to tourists, promoting shopping and fashion-themed packages with a few local hotels. The James Hotel, for example, will offer signature Fashion Focus cocktails, two VIP Fashion Focus passes and car service to and special offers from a collection of Bucktown boutiques.
“Our goal is to get people shopping,” Gamble said.
That’s just what local designers and retailers want to hear, as Colorado noted: “Any effort that’s made to promote the city as a shopping mecca is good for all of us.”
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A fashion to-do list
What’s the best bargain at Fashion Focus? The runway shows. Many are free, though RSVPs are often required and spots are being snatched up fast (which is one vote of confidence in this year’s tweaked format). The shows and events listed below take place at Millennium Park, Chase Promenade North, unless otherwise noted. Visit chicagofashionresource.com for the full lineup.
THURSDAY
7:30 p.m.
“Macy’s Presents the Designers of Chicago”
Show will feature the work of Chicago designers whose work is sold at Macy’s — the spring 2010 lines of veterans such as Lara Miller and Blake Standard — as well as the six designers in the Chicago Fashion Incubator at Macy’s, including Anna Hovet and Cynthia Ryba. A highlight of past Fashion Focus events, the Macy’s show kicks off Fashion Focus this year.
9 p.m.
“Invention and the Obsolete”
Art meets fashion in School of the Art Institute graduate Abigail Glaum-Lathbury’s spring 2010 show at Prairie Production, 1314 W. Randolph St. Recognized locally for her unique point of view and craftsmanship, Glaum-Lathbury was recently named a Rising Star by Fashion Group International of Chicago and best Chicago clothing designer by the Chicago Reader.
FRIDAY
11 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Fall shopping extravaganza
Spend your lunch hour shopping some of the city’s best designers, including Vika and Michelle Tan, with $25 off a purchase of $100 or more, at the Chicago Tourism Center, 72 E. Randolph St.
7 p.m.
“Dress Code”
Get a glimpse of the future of fashion. This runway event features top talent from Chicago’s fashion design schools: Columbia College, The Illinois Institute of Art, The International Academy of Design & Technology and the School of the Art Institute.
9 p.m.
Horacio Nieto
An AOL Latino Fashionista award winner, designer Nieto presents his spring 2010 tribal-inspired women’s collection and his futuristic menswear grouping at EnVent Studio, 344 N. Ogden Ave. General admission tickets are $15 and VIP seats are $40. Visit horacionieto.com to buy tickets.
SATURDAY
8 p.m.
Gen Art’s Fresh Faces in Fashion
Gen Art helped launch the careers of Zac Posen and Rebecca Taylor. Check out the next crop of designers featured by the emerging-arts organization, including women’s wear lines Kristen Hassan, C/FAN, Imaginary People, JLee Silver and Red Doll by Tatyana. Menswear designer Dorsia and accessory brands Emma Carroll, Fab Studio and Kling Handbags also will show their wares. Tickets are $110 for seating; $75 for standing; Gen Art members free. See genart.org.
OCT. 25
7 p.m.
“Vert Couture: An Evening of Fabulous Eco-Fashion and Environmental Responsibility”
An assortment of eco-friendly lines including Lara Miller, Frei Designs and Mountains of the Moon take to the runway in a show produced by Conscious Planet Media, at the Chicago Cultural Center, Yates Gallery (fourth floor), 78 E. Washington St. General admission is $25; VIP seating is $100. See consciousplanetmedia.com.
— B.W.
