A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by critic Phil Vettel
33 Club ** 1419 N. Wells St., 312-664-1419. Jerry Kleiner’s foray into the Old Town neighborhood boasts a glitzy environment that should play well with the dress-up set, and a seductive lounge with an interesting cocktail list. Contrasted with the flash is Daniel Kelly’s straightforward American menu; Kelly prefers flavor to flash, though his plates are certainly pretty. Most entrees are less than $30, but the serious steak lover should take a gander at the Reserve Meat list, with hefty slabs of prime beef closer to the $40 mark. Recommended: Lamb chop appetizer, salmon ceviche, braised veal. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$33. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Taxim * 1558 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-252-1558. If your experience with Greek cooking extends no further than Greektown, give this Wicker Park spot a try. An “opaa”-free zone, Taxim (pronounced tax-EEM) offers owner David Schneider’s progressive cooking, from a tightly focused menu that includes culinary influences from outside Greece. Laid-back but attentive servers can guide you through the all-Greek wine list. Recommended: Revithia, duck gyros, roasted chicken, boughatsa. Open: Dinner Mon., Wed.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$32. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Xoco ** 449 N. Clark St., 312-334-3688. Rick Bayless’ first new restaurant in 20 years is a counter-service operation modeled on Mexican street-food markets. Given the high quality of the food and Bayless’ star power, the no-reservations restaurant is packed for lunch and dinner (midweek breakfast is quiet, however). The menu is very small, consisting primarily of tortas (sandwiches, grilled panini-style or oven-baked) and caldos (soups), and although there are wine and beer options, the fruity agua frescas and ground-bean hot chocolates are the way to go. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: $8-$12.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly.
Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
