There’s a lot to be said for a slow, easy brunch — especially after a hard night out. And now that River North’s Mercadito offers its 4-month-old Sunday brunch on Saturdays too, there’s relief in the form of steak tacos and tequila-spiked bloody marys all weekend long.
The good news is that this New York-bred Mexican eatery is ready to meet your morning-after needs with an $18 “hangover cure” deal that pairs any of the menu’s eggy, carb-heavy entrees (regularly $12 each) with one of five breakfast cocktails (regularly $8 each). There’s even a section on the menu aimed right at you, Miss 2 a.m. Jager Nightcap: Para la Cruda (for the raw), which includes hangover-minimizing chilaquiles verdes (we suggest adding the optional fried egg for $2) and caldo de camaron (tequila-spiked spicy shrimp broth).
The bad news: You’ll have to wait for it. And not just for a few minutes, either. Though dining at the caliber to which Mercadito aspires requires some finesse — and the slick decor and meticulous tequila selection certainly signal you’re not at some 24-hour diner — service is sluggish. If only we’d had a basket of warm tortilla chips from the guacamole counter (just steps away!) to help pass the time.
The solution? Order at least one of three guacamoles ($7.50 for one, $9.50 for two) — first because chips here aren’t complimentary, and second because the mango guac is a must. The sweet-salty mix of jicama, chipotle and pico de gallo pairs well with not-too-salty chips and beckons a morning cocktail. To that end, our server recommended the Maria Sangrita, a thin version of a bloody maria made with pomegranate, green chiles, tomatoes, cucumbers, oranges and tequila. If you like your drinks spicy, this one’s for you. If not, try the Auntie Ox, true to its name thanks to green tea-infused vodka.
Either drink works well with estrellados y tampiquena, organic skirt steak alongside rows of sunny side up eggs and spicy potato-cactus queso fundido served with warm corn tortillas. The only thing that satisfied us more was dessert: flan de cajeta (goat’s milk caramel) with bites of pound cake and raisins. We’d return for the smooth, thick custard any day of the week, even if it means we’d have to wait for it.
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the juice: Mercadito
108 W. Kinzie St. 312-329-9555
(2 out of 4 eggs)
Loved it: Flan de cajeta with raisins ($5)
Hated it: Slow service
Brunch time: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday; 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday
Cost: About $30 per person with cocktail, appetizer and dessert
Wait: None
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lbalde@tribune.com
