On occasion, you may see “Old Vines” or, in French, “Vieilles Vignes” on a wine label. On the same occasion, you may note that the price of the wine is high.
Wine grapes from old vines appear to exact a premium over those made from younger vines. OK, why?
In answer, it serves to see how the arc of the life of a vine resembles, in an uncanny way, that of the life of the average Joe (or Josephine) — because age, in both humans and vines, augments value.
Birth to 7 years
After a vine is planted, its grapes are not usable until after its third or fourth year. Immature vines either grow no grapes or what they do grow isn’t fit to make good wine. As a vine approaches its seventh year, on average, its grapes begin to appeal to winemakers.
Likewise, babies are cute, but they don’t make much that’s usable — unless you wish to art up the refrigerator.
7 to 15 years
The gangly kid and adolescent — vine or human — is all purposeless energy in need of direction. Vines get pruned; kids get educated. Then, toward the 15th year, each reaches its stride. Indeed, after 10 years, if healthy, the one or the other requires merely good management.
15-25 years
Energy escalates. The creatures are at the peak of their productive capacity.
A grapevine is little more than an energy machine, seeking above all to remake itself in the seeds within its grapes. And so, it spews as many grapes as possible, spreading all that energy among them. But to make good wine, winemakers crop back the vine so that the energy is funneled into just a few bunches of grapes. Voila, concentration of flavor and color.
25-40 years
Now’s the time to coast, perchance to accumulate (in the case of a vine, thicker, nutrient-channeling wood and roots). Around 30 years old, the work of both vine and human is markedly consistent. But something new is at hand. It isn’t the quantity of the output that matters, it’s the quality.
Hereabouts, some winemakers begin to plug “old vines.” (Some apply the term after 40 years. Some, even later; others, much later.) In any case, it’s judged that old vines turn out fruit that concentrates.
No agreement exists about exactly how old “old” is for a vine and, further, the designation is outside the law in any country that uses it. To bend the adage, a vine is as old as a winemaker may think it is.
40-55 years
The concentration of quality continues. Output slackens, yes, but the grapes enjoy greater depth of flavor, color, complexity, possible perfumes — everything lovers of wine love in a wine.
55-75 years
Down, but not out. Almost everything in the plant or the person simply slows down. There is deterioration, perhaps, but if it’s not life-threatening (chiefly in the latter years), what comes from either is a marvel of intensity, purity of delivery and force of extract.
It’s as if crystals were being made from a crush of the former life. One grape from the vine or insight from the human captures the swarm of experience of the years passed before it.
But here’s the rub. Those in thrall over either may decide that, despite the quality of the output, the quantity no longer justifies its use. Uproot it, they argue, or shunt it aside. Replace it with younger, vigorous stock.
And this is why the many wines of old vines cost. In effect, “old vines” signifies “old vines’ yields.”
75-plus years
Now the vine is wise. Far from prolific, its grapes dribble from the vine’s canes. Nonetheless, these guru grapes have a character, an integrity, a personality that everyone serious about wine seeks out. These are truly, deservedly, “old vines.”
100-plus years
It’s said of Pablo Picasso that, at age 91, he bragged about making love to his wife the afternoon before he died. (In any case, his last recorded words, at dinner, were “Drink to me, drink to my health.”)
Some types of vines — California zinfandel comes to mind — do not unfailingly limp into a second century. But those that do thrive there deliver on gusto and pith.
2 to try
For a taste of what old vines can do, here are two French reds that carry the message.
2008 Clos de la Briderie, Touraine-Mesland Rouge, Vieilles Vignes
Rustic red but smooth. Gobs of dark fruit aromas, the same echoed in tastes. For a red, zippy feel. Terrific with cheese intro course. $19
2004 Cotes-du-Roussillon Villages Rouge, Domaine Gauby, Vieilles Vignes
You will need something fatty with which to eat this wine: olive oil on grilled mushrooms, for example, or the rind of a steak or breast of a duck. The grippy tannins, in-your-face aromas and flavors of dark fruits and rather stout alcohol just need taming. $35
