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The article on anti-aging cream by Trine Tsouderos (“

Do anti-aging skin creams work?

” Jan. 31), is very timely and thought-provoking. Anti-aging creams or lotions have been universally popular as they promise to provide a non-invasive approach to rejuvenation and remodeling of the aging face. While it is true that scientifically controlled studies on commercially available products are generally lacking, over the last few decades the chief ingredients in anti-aging creams, such as antioxidants (vitamins), alpha-hydroxyacids, retinoic acid derivatives, soy products and peptides have been rigorously tested in human volunteers, patients or animal models to examine their efficacy and to determine possible side effects.

Dr. Regan Thomas, MD, and University of Illinois at Chicago colleagues in the Department of Otolaryngology-Head and Neck Surgery at UIC have published studies comparing the properties of commercially available anti-aging substances with retinoic acid, vitamin C, soy and peptide in respect of skin stimulation and effacement of wrinkles and roughness (Arch. Fac.Plast.Surg., 2009; 11(5):332-337). Our research studies have continued which products may be useful and which are not helpful.

The billion-dollar industry of over-the-counter topical anti-aging products is teeming with numerous products with dramatic claims, and the consumer feels lost in deciding which product to choose as every person’s skin is unique. In the absence of clinical or experimental trials, safety aspects should be also considered before trying out some of these exotic new generations of anti-aging creams. It has been shown that a cheaper cream may well rejuvenate the age-ravished face to an acceptable degree as well as some very expensive preparations. In 2007 the Consumer Reports group made a study of cheap and expensive products with women between 30 and 70 years of age, and no correlation was found between price and effectiveness. A recent scientific study with animals showed that pure almond oil could prevent structural damage to skin caused by ultraviolet radiation.

UIC Researcher, TK Bhattacharyya, Ph.D., who is a key investigator in Dr. Thomas’ laboratory notes, “All of this underscores that there is urgent need to do research in this important area of human skin health in this beauty-conscious modern age. Sadly this is an important health area which is underfunded by federal agencies.”

— J. Regan Thomas, MD, department head, UIC Department of Otolaryngology