Even at this gray, leafless time of year, Atwater’s is one of the prettiest restaurants in the area.
The semicircular dining room is warm and cozy, with reddish carpeting and walnut wood trim throughout, and a warm fireplace built into the west wall. But it’s the dozen or so French doors, overlooking the rushing Fox River, that really sell the look.
Like I said, even on a gray day, the space manages to be cheerful.
There’s a sense of exclusivity, too, because there are only 10 tables. That, and very attentive service, make you feel positively coddled.
The $22, three-course Restaurant Week menu is very approachable and conservative, as hotel menus tend to be, but solid execution helps a great deal. The veal tenderloin, for instance, shares a plate with boursin-whipped potatoes, carrots and broccoli. No surprises there. But the impeccable quality of the veal, and careful cooking, make it an extremely pleasant dish.
A picture-perfect endive salad, the leaves forming a pinwheel around a center of warm brie, and milk-chocolate espresso mousse piped into a bittersweet-chocolate cup rounded out my three-course adventure, though other options include butternut-squash soup, beef short rib with vanilla-parsnip puree and creme brulee.
The lunch menu is identical to that of the $33, three-course dinner (there’s a four-course, $44 dinner menu as well), so one can visit at any time without fear of missing something. Atwater’s, Herrington Inn, 15 S. River Lane, Geneva, 630-208-7433.
Chicago Restaurant Week continues through Sunday. For restaurants, menus and online reservations, go to eatitupchicago.com
