Once in a while, we really splurge. On expensive ingredients. On calories. On time spent preparing a meal. It feels good for the cook and the recipients.
When we fantasize, we dream big (and somewhat French). We’re talking Chateaubriand, the classic French entree made from the tenderest portion of a beef tenderloin. Oh, and a ladleful of wine sauce. You know, that kind of thing. With a glass of Bordeaux. My, my.
Turns out my nearly grown kids and their cousins know little of these treasures. The footlong-sub generation rarely encounters a stunning roast or well-made classic sauce. They’re more likely to sport a discerning palate for microbrews, gourmet burgers and artisanal cheese. Since I want them to splurge on me someday, this is the year we’re cooking beef tenderloin together.
First order of business: purchasing the meat. We’re serving 10, so we’ll need something bigger than Chateaubriand (which typically serves two). We’ll be making a sizable investment in the main course, but since the tenderloin is boneless, there is virtually no waste. Fortunately, many large supermarkets and warehouse stores sell tenderloin during the holiday season at sale prices. It may be vacuum-packed in plastic pouches; if it’s labeled choice beef, proceed, but know that you may need to spend a few minutes trimming things up a bit.
If you prefer not to do the trimming, the best bet is to order the meat in advance from a butcher. Specify that it should be trimmed and tied. After the trimming is done, plan on about a half-pound beef tenderloin per adult serving.
To trim a whole beef tenderloin, use a very sharp knife to carefully remove any excess fat and all the tough, silvery membrane that runs along the surface of the meat. If there is a thin strip of fat-covered meat running along one side of the tenderloin, remove it (this can be saved and used later in stir-fries). After removing all traces of the silver membrane, tie the tenderloin with kitchen string at 1-inch intervals into a compact roast. This helps the meat roast more evenly.
Beef tenderloin has a mild, rich flavor that needs little embellishment. A simple dry rub of salt and pepper enhances the flavor. This holiday, we’re adding a little smoked sweet paprika to the mix. For serving, the elegant roast deserves a worthy sauce — such as the simple red wine sauce here that gets its flavor from concentrated wine and broth.
Pepper-crusted beef tenderloin
Prep: 10 minutes
Stand: 20 minutes
Cook: 40 minutes
Servings: 8 to 10
Ingredients:
1 1/2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt
1 tablespoon smoked sweet paprika
1 tablespoon coarsely ground fresh peppercorns (such as a mixture of black, green and pink peppercorns)
4 to 5 pounds trimmed beef tenderloin, tied into a compact roast
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Sauce, see recipe below
Fresh flat-leaf parsley or rosemary sprigs
1. Mix salt, paprika and pepper in small bowl. Place tenderloin on a rimmed heavy baking sheet. Rub tenderloin all over with olive oil. Press salt mixture over tenderloin to coat well. Let stand at room temperature, about 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, heat oven to 425 degrees. Roast the tenderloin until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest portion registers 125 degrees for rare or 135 degrees for medium-rare, 25-35 minutes. .
3. Let the tenderloin rest on a cutting board before carving, 15 minutes. Slice into thin slices. Arrange on a heated serving platter. Serve with the wine sauce. Garnish with parsley or rosemary.
Nutrition information:
Per serving (for 10 servings using 4-pound tenderloin): 310 calories, 16 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 113 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 37 g protein, 941 mg sodium, 0 g fiber.
Rosemary red wine shallot sauce
Prep: 10 minutes
Cook: 50 minutes
Makes: about 2 cups
Note:
If homemade beef or chicken stock is an option, use it here; the sauce will have more flavor and body than a version with canned broth (which works fine, too).
Ingredients:
2 large shallots, finely chopped
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups full-bodied red wine
1/4 cup port
1 quart low-sodium chicken broth
2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary or 1/4 teaspoon dried
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1. Cook shallots in 2 tablespoons butter in large saucepan over low heat until tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in red wine. Boil gently over medium heat until wine has reduced to 1 cup, about 12 minutes.
2. Add the port; reduce by half. Add broth; boil until everything is reduced to about 2 cups, 25-30 minutes. Whisk in cornstarch mixture until smooth. Boil gently, whisking constantly, until thickened, about 2 minutes. (Recipe can be made ahead several days; refrigerate covered.)
3. Just before serving, reheat sauce. Add rosemary; season with salt and pepper to taste. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons softened butter until incorporated. Serve hot.
Nutrition information:
Per tablespoon: 20 calories, 2 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 4 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 1 g protein, 46 mg sodium, 0 g fiber.
Bearnaise sauce
Prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 10 minutes
Makes: about 1 cup
Note:
Have all your ingredients and cooking equipment ready near the work surface before you begin. The sauce will keep warm about 20 minutes. It can be served at room temperature, too, but it will curdle if reheated.
Ingredients:
1/4 cup each: white wine vinegar, dry white wine
2 shallots, finely chopped
3 large egg yolks
1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cubed
2 or 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives or parsley (or a combination)
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarragon
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1. Put vinegar, wine and shallots into small heavy-bottomed saucepan. Boil gently over medium heat until the liquid has reduced to about 1 tablespoon, 2 minutes. Remove from heat.
2. Transfer the mixture to the top of a double boiler (or a medium-size heatproof bowl) set over (but not touching) a saucepan of simmering water. Add the egg yolks to the pan; vigorously whisk the yolks to a thick, pale yellow froth, 1 to 3 minutes. If the bowl starts to get too hot, remove it from the simmering water so you don’t scramble the eggs; let it cool a bit before returning to pan.
3. Whisk or beat in the butter, a little lump at a time, until the sauce is thick and light and all the butter is incorporated. (Continue to remove the bowl from the pan of simmering water as you work to prevent the eggs from scrambling.) When all of the butter has been incorporated, and the sauce is light, remove it from the heat; add the herbs, salt and pepper. Add a tablespoon or two of water if the sauce is too thick. Keep the sauce warm by pressing a piece of plastic wrap directly over the surface of the sauce then leaving it over the hot water (but not over the heat).
Nutrition information:
Per tablespoon: 89 calories, 9 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 62 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 1 g protein, 39 mg sodium, 0 g fiber.
