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With fresh oysters, I usually go commando: no cocktail sauce, no mignonette.

So at Homestead on the Roof, the peaceful hideaway above Roots Handmade Pizza in West Town, I was wary of the oysters that came cloaked in shiso, puffed rice and a bright piece of flower petal. Would I lose the oceanic smack of the sea creature — a delicate Beausoleil — beneath all that creativity?

“We eat with our eyes first,” says chef Scott Shulman. “Even though it’s a cliche, it’s true.”

The shellfish are drizzled with a modern take on mignonette; Shulman swaps the vinegar and black pepper traditionally used in the sauce for yuzu and finely grated jalapeno, adding heat and tart citrus notes. He finishes with a clove of raw garlic “to round out everything and give it depth,” he says.

The Vietnamese puffed rice and chiffonade of shiso add texture for a layered, harmonious slurp.

If all oysters could be so well-dressed, I might never again eat them naked.

Homestead on the Roof, 1924 W. Chicago Ave., 773-332-2354, www.homesteadontheroof.com

David Hammond is a freelance writer.

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