Goat liver mousse at Girl & the Goat

Chef Stephanie Izard’s goat liver mousse, silky with a sheen the color of toasted creme brulee, is somehow rich and delicate at once. The best analogy I can make is meeting someone with a heavy head of hair, but combing through to find that each strand is ultra-fine. There’s a reason the dish ($14) is a classic at Girl & the Goat, where it’s served on a wooden board with tiny ramekins of changing accompaniments — on my visit, blueberry puree, pickled veggies and diced pickles — and five seriously dangerous crumpets, formed into charmingly irregular ovals and served warm. Between two people, we devoured all five, slathering them in mousse and jam and veggies. Savory, sweet, crunchy. The bartender had recommended the plate as a snack, but let’s be clear: This is a meal, and a darn good one.

809 W. Randolph St., 312-492-6262, www.girlandthegoat.com

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