The traditional immigrant success story is being updated in sweet and savory fashion on the northwest corner of Chicago Avenue and Dempster Street in Evanston.
Instead of hearty, stick-to-your-ribs fare like omelettes, gyros and prime rib typically consumed in many a favorite neighborhood Greek diner, a family of restaurateurs is going for a lighter touch with Greek-style crepes as their mainstay menu choice, replicating their old eatery in a village 400 miles west of Athens.
Crepe O’Clock – the latter word an affectionate inside joke referring to the non-English-speaking family patriarch/cook finding a certain English word unpronounceable – opened Dec. 23 in an Asian restaurant’s former space at 601 Dempster. They have already received good reviews from diners who are willing to give their Old World recipes a tryout.
“We came for a better future, for a better life,” said Panagiotis (Pete) Georgopoulos, who immigrated with his father Leonidas Georgopoulos in 2014.
Mother Vasiliki Stratikopoulou arrived a year later. Brother Chris Georgopoulos recently immigrated. They had heard of America all their lives from a grandfather who owned the Aladdin Hotel near Midway Airport in Chicago before returning to Greece.
The family had shopped for a restaurant site for years, but Covid put plans on hold. They desired a menu that was a contrast from more common dishes found in nearby restaurants. And the focus on crepes along with a few other traditional Greek dishes and imported French croissants was a departure from old-school Greek diners cutting across ethnic lines to offer something for everyone.
“We wanted to locate in Evanston,” said Stratikopoulou, who had lived in the city when she first arrived. “We needed a location that was up to code because any kind of smoke had to be vented. It could not be just any storefront.
“We put everything we have into the business.”
Crepe O’Clock is in essence the American version of Quick, the family’s former restaurant in Filiatra, a village of some 5,000 in Messenia near the Ionian Sea coast. The family described Quick as a “grab and go” place that did well with local lunch-goers and tourists.
Greek crepes are thicker than their better known French counterparts. “We just put more eggs in it,” said Stratikopoulou. “We make the crepe dough fresh daily. There is no other way.”
Eschewing salt as an ingredient, “savory” crepes contain bacon, cheese and tomato or ham and cheese. A sampling of the former gave the hint of a classic omelette without the heaviness inherent in a two- or three-egg dish. All-vegetable, Greek (feta, olives, tomatoes, peppers, onions and oregano), “Chick’n’Veg Supreme,” meat lovers and “hungover” crepes fill out the savory category.
The sweet side using natural flavors are the Rafaello crepe with coconut, Nutella and strawberries, while the Valentine’s crepe substitutes crème patissiere for the coconut.
Georgopoulos said diners can custom order ingredients for all crepes.
Sally of Evanston and Lori of Chicago, who did not want their last names used, dined on crepes as the family related their story. Giving a literal thumbs up to her “Chick’n’Veg” crepe, Sally praised the “combination of taste and texture.” Lori did not want a pancake per se, but said her all-vegetable crepe provided a “pancake taste.” Both said they will be back for more.
Other menu items include a chicken gyros sandwich using breast meat and not prepared off the classic spindle of gyros, several other sandwiches, spanakopita (Greek spinach pie) and freshly-baked pastries to complement the imported croissants. Greek coffee heads up the java selection.
The family also plans an outdoor patio on Chicago Avenue and sidewalk tables on Dempster when the weather warms.
Eventually, Leonidas Georgopoulos will learn to pronounce the full name of the restaurant, family members said, when he takes breaks from cooking, which begins before 5:30 a.m.
“My dad could not say the phrase ‘o’clock,’” said Pete Georgopoulos. “It came out one clock. So that’s why we used it in the restaurant title.”
If the family isn’t busy enough at Crepe O’Clock, they fill their hours with careers in the medical profession. Stratikopoulou, who was an English teacher in Greece, started over here and is a psychotherapist. Pete Georgopoulos is studying to be a nurse practitioner. Brother Chris is a pharmacist.
The food may not be traditional Greek diner fare, but the motivation is as old as the immigrant story.
“I’m doing this for my two boys,” said Stratikopoulou.” They’re very smart.”
