Some of the first people to see the fashions that parade down the designers` runways are Chicago`s retail buyers, fashion directors and coordinators. They`re responsible for what is available in Chicago`s stores, and we thought it might be interesting to see just what they thought Chicago women want in fashion.
We asked two questions: Does the Chicago woman have a distinctive style? If a woman is making a major purchase for spring, what should it be?
Their responses were as varied as their merchandising philosophies, and their perceptions of Chicago style were keen. On what to buy for spring, several winners emerged: The basic suit is still regarded as a standard for building a wardrobe in Chicago. The longer, fuller jacket over a shorter, slimmer skirt is considered the most striking new silhouette. Color and prints also were emphasized, a delight after a season of tweeds and man-tailored clothing.
Here are the experts and their answers:
Linda Strauss, fashion counselor for women`s apparel, Sears Roebuck, & Co.:
I`d say yes. She`s Midwestern and yet she`s very cosmopolitan. There`s a practicality to her nature, and therefore I think she wants contemporary styling without being trendy.
For spring: I would say a linen blazer in a natural or a neutral color. It`s a great item that can be worn with dresses, skirts and pants.
Janet Wolff, division merchandise manager of Chas. A. Stevens:
I`m originally from San Francisco, I just arrived in Chicago in August
`84, and I`ve spent all my life travelling from city to city. I find Chicago women in all ranks of business, are more concerned with their professional image than any other city and have a lot less frivolity in their working wardrobe. Overall, I think the woman in Chicago dresses a bit seriously–I don`t mean in a negative way. It`s not `uptight` not at all, we take our image more seriously here. There is a lot of frivolity on the weekends but we know that during the week, we`re out there to prove a point
— we`re professionals — and it`s more difficult when the visual says otherwise.
For spring: If a woman was buying nothing else at all, I`d have to say something in a wonderful print — a printed dress, the dress market looks fabulous, and I`m a sportswear maven. If not a dress, a camp shirt, or bowling shirt in an oversized Hawaiian print.
Rhoda Richards, buyer for Brittany, Ltd.:
The Chicago woman is a natural beauty. We can appreciate the natural beauty of fabrics–how cotton breathes in summer and the warmth of wool in winter–because of the elements we have to contend with. Chicago is the architectural capital of the world and we all have a natural sense of silhouette; we`re very practical in our sense of dress. We`re very smart women; we don`t go for the trendiest looks but rather those with lasting style.
For spring: A beautiful soft sportcoat, constructed is not out, but the soft sportcoat is the good buy, one that can take you from day into evening, from work to play. Look for a shawl collar, padded shoulder, a cuff on the jacket, softer fabric–silk/wool and linen blend, some shirring, or a few gathers but not top-stitched lapels.
Doris Lavin, owner of Pompian Shop:
The Chicago woman is very aware of today`s fashions. The media, with previews and coverage of the designers` shows, has a great influence on what she sees. She accepts what`s happening in fashion as it changes, and although she may not be the type to wear what`s being shown, she adapts to the shapes and proportions and then conforms them to fit into her own lifestyle. With her knowledge, she has become an international dresser.
For spring: Four pieces that are interchangeable. A jacket, pants, dress, and skirt in similar color tones as a basic wardrobe. And if she has these four pieces, she should add a wonderful top–a looser, big easy over-top to wear over the pant or skirt belted with a big wonderful belt.
Joanne Unkovskoy, public relations director of Neiman-Marcus:
Chicago women have an international style, because they travel for pleasure and for business both in the country and abroad; you would not be able to point out a Chicago woman in Paris on her looks alone, she`s too sophisticated. Not only does her international schedule influence her style, but she also has a vast selection of merchandise available to her here in the city, she knows what`s available and knows how to put it together.
For spring: We`ve noticed that for evenings, there seems to be a resurgence in evening gowns–the return of the ballgown. It`s showing up in many of the collections. For daytime, the big shirt, which can help to update any wardrobe.
Joan Weinstein, owner of Ultimo on Oak Street:
The Chicago woman used to have a distinctive style, but I think today it`s a whole new thing. I think that the well-dressed Chicago woman looks very international. She`d look fine in any city.
For spring: If she has good legs, it ought to be something short and narrow.
Meredith Rapp, director of merchandising at Stanley Korshak:
A distinctive style? Yes, and I think a very good one, better than a New York woman`s. In New York, they`ll do anything. I think in Chicago women are more concerned with their image. I think they`re very refined looking and have very cultured tastes because they`re very well-traveled, well-educated people who are exposed to culture around the world and put it to their advantage.
For spring: Always, a fabulous suit. Definitely a skirt suit this year perhaps, a few blouses to go underneath–a print silk blouse or a solid blouse. I think in Chicago, you always need the third piece, so it`s always a suit rather than a dress. The skirt should be of average length. We really sell to women who dress for men, who want to look feminine, nice and attractive.
Nena Ivon, fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue:
Chicago women are chic, well-groomed and well-dressed for their lifestyle. Whether they are professional women, volunteer worker, homemaker, and/or mother, our Chicago `superwoman` has the savvy to pull her life together, and that includes her wardrobe.
For spring: It seems to me, a bright jacket of some sort, even a little bit oversized and a shorter narrow skirt–the new proportion and color are important even a big oversized out-shirt, something to wear outside your skirt or pants. These would be the major new things for spring .
Linda Lisco, fashion director of Spiegel, Inc.:
Overall, Chicago women are more classic and conservative in their working wardrobe. Certainly the old rules of dress-for-success have been broken down but I think that they`ve been more firmly broken down in other cities. I think a classic approach is really what most Chicago women feel comfortable with for daytime wear. On weekends, Chicago women show their inner spirit with novelty denim, an exciting chambry shirt, and other looser, more casual weekend outfits for fun.
For spring: She should purchase something in color. After a very dark fall, I think color, whether it be brights, or pales, is probably the most important purchase to make as well as something in a wonderful print.
Stephanie Dickstein, fashion director of Carson Pirie Scott & Co.:
Yes, I`m from New York, and I`ve noticed a big difference. I think that she`s more tasteful and more elegant in her approach to high fashion. She doesn`t go `way out.` I think there`s more taste and elegance to her creativity.
For spring: She should buy a white linen double-breasted blazer, a cotton tank and a slim short skirt. To get the long jacket and slim skirt, unmatched suit look.
