I`ve never been to the Empire State Building, the Museum of Modern Art, Grant`s Tomb or a single Broadway theater. The closest I got to the Statue of Liberty was viewing it through one of those crummy coin-operated binoculars while riding the Staten Island Ferry.
This sounds reasonably normal unless you have lived in New York for 15 years, as I have. Fifteen years in the Bronx, a simple mass-transit ride (at a price that would disgust you) from sights that others travel half the country to see, and I never bothered. The only reason I was on the ferry is that it was part of a Boy Scouts trip; otherwise I`d have missed that, too.
I was not alone. Most of my friends could say the same thing, back then;
most of them are still in the city and I`ll bet a lot of them could say the same thing now. Whether I took them for granted or felt it was uncool to play tourist in my home town, the city`s sights just weren`t high on my list of things to do.
Moving to Chicago didn`t change my habits. I had lived in the area for seven years before I took an out-of-town visitor to see the sights–seeing them for the first time myself. A few years later, having learned to differentiate between Sears Tower and the John Hancock Building and to navigate the Loop with some degree of confidence, I showed more and more friends the city, though I always was embarrassed when a simple question
(”What`s that building with the statue on top?”) would stump me.
To heck with this, I decided. I`m going to learn at least as much about my town as the average New Zealander learns in a two-day visit.
So I did, hitting about six Chicago tours in the course of a weekend. It didn`t make me an expert–in fact, I occasionally got contradictory information on the same Chicago landmark–but I learned a few things and had a pretty good time. (I would have had a better time had I spaced the tours over several weeks, as a normal person would.)
And seeing Chicago through a tourist`s eyes is both enlightening and exciting. Many of the buildings on the tour are structures I used to pass by every day without a second glance. They look different now, and I find myself making excuses to wander past them from time to time.
Finding available tours, I learned, is no problem. There are all sorts of ways to explore the town, and virtually every attraction in Chicagoland offers a tour of some kind. You can tour the Board of Trade, Auditorium Theatre and the First National Bank of Chicago, if you`d care to.
But I stuck with the overview tours, the quick looks at the main attractions and neighborhoods that a tourist with limited time is likely to try. I cruised the river and the lake, bused around the north and south sides and took a couple of walking tours. Each tour was different, of course, but all had much in common:
— You see a lot in a short time. Every tour I took seemed to cram in as many sights as possible. One I took hit Greek Town, Little Italy, Maxwell Street, Chinatown and the Loop in less than three hours. This isn`t as bad as it sounds. The whirlwind pace isn`t likely to fill you up with information or memories, but it`s perfect for locals in that it employs a grazing approach to tourism. It gives you little tastes of this neighborhood and that, the better to decide which place to hit for a return visit. Of course, the adventurous do this without forewarning; but these are not the people who need tours.
— You get an interesting perspective on what outsiders think of Chicago by traveling among them. Watching someone`s reaction to the Merchandise Mart or Chinatown is fun. It`s interesting, also, to see the preconceived notions they bring along, and how tour guides feed them. The three lame jokes I heard in virtually every tour were: 1. Gangster jokes. 2. Political corruption jokes. 3. State of Illinois Center jokes. The visitors always laughed at the first two; they tittered politely at the third.
— It doesn`t cost much. The top price I paid was $15 for a three-hour bus tour. If the bus had gone in a straight line I`d have ended up in Champaign, which is just about how far $15 takes you. The only overpriced tours are the $25 (or $20) carriage rides on the Near North Side, and in that case you`re paying for atmosphere. True, that may include being cursed in Parsi, but you`re paying for atmosphere.
— The tour guides have their own story to tell. Unlike, say, Disney World, where employees recite carefully scripted information, Chicago`s tour guides seem to be on their own, improvising dialogue and sometimes even tour routes as fits their mood (or the group`s mood). One guide was so friendly the first thing he did at every stop was ask if anyone wanted his picture taken. Another, narrating a river tour of Chicago`s architecture, expressed dismay at what he termed the East Bank Club`s failure to incorporate the river into its design, and dismissed the State of Illinois Center with, ”The less said about that, the better.” And someone working a river/lake cruise sported a T-shirt that read, ”Kill `em all–let God sort `em out.” Clearly a man who has worked with the public for too long.
For the most part, the guides know their business. Occasionally, however, they`re struck by Curt Gowdy`s Disease, a verbal affliction prevalent in (but not unique to) sports announcers who can`t fill more than a few minutes of dead air without saying something dumb. I`m nitpicking here, but certain tour guide comments were too choice to ignore:
— As one driver pulled over on Taylor Street, he announced, ”Watch yourselves. . .This is an Italian neighborhood–you know, the macho part of town.”
— Another driver had this to say: ”On this site there used to be a pool hall that Al Capone frequented occasionally.”
— One tour guide, pointing out the Merchandise Mart, said, ”The upper floors are closed to the public, but security is pretty lax. Go ahead and walk through it if you want.”
— Another guide pointed to a building and offered, ”They did a lot of renovation on this building. . .I think the windows are new. . .I don`t know who the architect was, but he sure did a terrific job.”
— Another goodwill ambassador pointed out brightly, ”This is the place that was the focus of that arson-for-profit expose on TV.”
— And a driver who apparently forgot what he was about to say halfway through a spiel, ended up sounding like this: ”People ask me why so many people are attracted to the city.” (Long pause) ”Uh, I don`t know. I really don`t.”
Well, I think I do.
BY FOOT, BUS, BOAT, TRAIN–TAKE YOUR PICK
Here are some of the tours available in the Chicago area; departure times, hours and prices fluctuate and are subject to change without notice. Reservations/confirmation strongly advised.
American Police Center and Museum, 1130 S. Wabash Ave. 431-0005. Free, hour-long tours of historical and modern displays on law enforcement. Open 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Group tours require two weeks` notice.
American Sightseeing Tours, 530 S. Michigan Ave. 427-3100. More than 20 bus tours and one-day excursions, including North Side tour ($8.50, $4.25), South Side tour ($8.50, $4.25), Grand Tour (North and South; $15, $7.50), lunch tours, dinner tours, after-dark tours and more. Daily departures, charters available.
Auditorium Theatre, 70 E. Congress Pkwy. 922-4046. One-hour tours include walk-through of entire seven-story theater, from backstage to lobbies, Monday- Friday. $3 adults; $2 seniors, students, children. Reservations required.
Bahai House of Worship, Linden Avenue and Sheridan Road, Wilmette. 256-4400. Open daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Free. Guides on duty to aid self-directed tours; groups of 15 or more can schedule free, one-hour, formal tours.
Brookfield Zoo, 1st Avenue and 31st Street, Brookfield. 485-0263, ext. 366. Free tours by zoo docents for families, groups, from 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. Formal educational tours open to public, subject to availability.
Cantigny, Roosevelt and Winfield Roads, Wheaton. 668-5161. 500-acre estate of the late Col. Robert R. McCormick. Open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. daily except Monday; free tours of McCormick mansion and 1st Division Museum every 15 minutes. Will be closed during January, 1986.
Carriage Rides. There are a half-dozen companies operating horse-drawn carriage rides throughout the year. Among them are Antique Coach and Carriage, operating at Huron and Michigan from 6:30 p.m.-midnight Mon.-Fri., noon-midnight Sat.-Sun. ($25); Chicago Carriage Company, Pearson east of Michigan, 6 p.m.-3 a.m. Mon.-Fri., 10 a.m.-3 a.m. Sat.-Sun. ($20); Coach Horse Livery, Pearson west of Michigan, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. and 6:30 p.m.-2 a.m. Mon.- Fri., 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Sat.-Sun. ($25); J.C. Cutters, northeast corner of Chicago and Michigan, 7 p.m.-midnight Mon.-Fri., 6 p.m.-midnight Sat.-Sun. ($20). Prices are for half-hour ride, four passengers or less.
Chicago Architecture Foundation, Archicenter, 330 S. Dearborn St. 782-1776. Nearly 50 tours offered each year, including walking tour of Chicago Loop (1 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 2 p.m. Sat.-Sun., $4), tours of John Glessner and Henry B. Clark houses in Prairie Avenue District (hourly tours noon-3 p.m. daily except Monday; $4 per house, $6 for both) and tours of Frank Lloyd Wright`s home and studio (Sat. 11 a.m., 1-4 p.m., Sun. 1-4 p.m.; $3 adults, $1.50 seniors and children). Upcoming special tours: Victorian walking tour of Oak Park, Sunday, Oct. 6, 20; walking tour of River Forest, Sept. 29, Oct. 13, 27; 4 1/2-hour tour of works by Louis Sullivan, Oct. 12; elevated train tour of Chicago neighborhoods, Oct. 20. Call 922-3432 for special tour information. Chicago Board of Trade, 141 W. Jackson Blvd. 435-3620. Tour/lecture every half-hour 9 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Monday-Friday. Free. Reservations for large groups.
Chicago Botanic Gardens, Lake-Cook Road, one-half mile east of Edens Expressway, Glencoe. 835-5440. Tram tours (45 minutes; $2) run all day, every day; walking tours vary by area (park comprises 300 acres) but held daily;
group tours by arrangement. Grounds open 8 a.m.-sunset daily.
Chicago Fire Academy, 558 W. DeKoven St. 744-6691. Occupies site of legendary O`Leary barn, origin point of Great Chicago Fire. Tours on firefighter training and techniques arranged by request, subject to availability. Free.
Chicago From the Lake, Ltd., 53 W. Jackson Blvd. 922-4020. Morning narrated architecture tours along Chicago River 10 a.m. Saturday ($10)
includes coffee, juice, rolls. Available for private charter.
Chicago Motor Coach Company. 989-8919. Double-decker bus tours departing from Sears Tower (Franklin Street side) hourly 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Fri.-Sun. $3 upper deck, $1 lower, supertransfer (all-day ride) $1 extra. Tour routes vary, generally operating between Sears Tower and the Art Institute, but including most of downtown. New routes to be announced.
The Chicago Nobody Knows Tour. 966-3776. Bus tour highlighting the offbeat, the little-known and the truly bizarre. Departs from corner of Michigan and Chicago Avenues 6:45 p.m. Saturday (Saturday and Sunday afternoons in December). $20; reservations required.
Chicago Public Library Cultural Center, 78 E. Washington St. 269-2922. Tours featuring architectural highlights of building, Thursday 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. Tours frequently interrupted; call ahead.
Chicago Transit Authority Culture Buses. Three routes, all beginning and ending at Art Institute (Michigan at Adams), unlimited rides for one fare: $2 adults, $1 seniors, children and disabled. North route includes stops at Fullerton Beach, New Town, Lincoln Park Zoo, Old Town and Rush Street; West route includes Sears Tower, Polish Museum, Garfield Park Conservatory, Maxwell Street and Chinatown; South route includes Prairie Avenue District, Museum of Science and Industry, DuSable Museum of African American History, Oriental Institute and Adler Planetarium. From 10:35 a.m.-4:45 p.m. Sundays and holidays through Sept. 29. Schedule information: 836-7000.
Fermilab National Accelerator Laboratory, Batavia. 840-3351. Free guided tours available at 9:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. Monday-Friday by appointment only; 10 minimum, 40 maximum; 14 years or older. Tour takes about three hours. Self- guided tours for small groups available daily 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m.; includes 13-minute slide presentation.
First National Bank, Dearborn and Madison Streets. 732-6037. Tour the world`s tallest bank building at 10 a.m. Tues.-Thurs. Free, but reservations required. Maximum group size 25; 12 years or older.
Gray Line of Chicago, 33 E. Monroe St. 346-9506. Daily bus tours of city sights, ethnic neighborhoods, shopping and museums. Adults $13.50-$17, children (11 and under) $6.50-$8.50. Group charters available.
Haeger Pottery, 7 Maiden Lane, Dundee. 426-3776. Factory tour and outlet store. Free, 45-minute long tours at 10 a.m., 10:45 a.m., 1 p.m. and 1:45 p.m. Mon.-Fri. Large groups should call in advance.
Lynfred Winery, 15 S. Roselle Rd., Roselle. 529-9463. Award-winning winery in Du Page County. Tours available year-round, beginning every half-hour from 11 a.m.-7 p.m. daily. Tour is free; wine tastings $2.
Merchandise Mart, between Orleans and Wells Streets at the Chicago River. 661-1440. Tour home-furnishing showrooms otherwise closed to the public at 10 a.m. Tuesday and Thursday ($3.75), except during major shows, when tours are canceled (no tours Tuesday or Oct. 3). Group tours available by arrangement. Tour begins at first-floor information desk.
Mercury Sightseeing Boats, Wacker Drive at Michigan Avenue Bridge (south side). 332-1353. River and lake cruises (1 1/2 hours) through September and thereafter while the good weather holds out. Departures: 10 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 1:15 p.m., 3:15 p.m., 7:30 p.m. (weekends only). $6; $3 children. Schedules vary, call ahead.
Oak Park Tour Center, 951 Chicago Ave., Oak Park. 848-1978. Tours include Frank Lloyd Wright home and studio, historic walk and Unity Temple. All three tours $5; any one tour $3. Monday-Friday, house and studio tours at 11 a.m., 1 p.m., 3 p.m.; historic walk 10 a.m.; Unity Temple 12:30-3:15 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; all-inclusive tours begin 2 p.m. at Unity Temple.
Paramount Arts Center, 23 E. Galena Blvd., Aurora. 896-7676. Elaborately restored Art Deco theater. Tours available any day (7 a.m.-7 p.m.), for groups any size (no minimum, groups larger than 45 must be split up), by volunteer guides. $1 per person 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; other times $2; Wednesday free. Pullman Community, 104th-115th Streets at Int. Hwy. 94. 785-8181. Restored company town that is an architectural landmark. Walking tour 12:30 and 1 p.m. Oct. 6 ($3.50, $2 seniors and students), grand house tour 10:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Oct. 12-13 ($7).
SS Clipper, Navy Pier. 329-1800. 80-year-old restored Art Deco passenger liner. Open 4 p.m.-midnight Friday, noon-midnight Sat.-Sun. ($3, $1.50 children). Guided tours 1-4 p.m. Sat.-Sun. ($4, $2.50 children). Available for private parties.
Shoreline Marine Sightseeing. 427-2900. Half-hour lake cruises noon-5 p.m. Sat.-Sun. through Nov. 1. Departures at 20 minutes past the hour on the north side of Shedd Aquarium. $3.50, $1.50 under 10.
The St. Charles Belle, Pottawatomie Park, St. Charles. 584-2334. Fox River cruises while the good weather holds out. Departures at 2 p.m., 3 p.m., 4 p.m. Sat.-Sun. $1.50, $1 children. Group charters available.
