Given a fat enough pocketbook, one can order just about any out-of-season food at just about any time of year and have it flown in the next day.
But no amount of money can fly in fresh corn in December and have it taste the way native corn on the cob tastes when rushed from the field to a pot of boiling water.
Recent advances in genetic juggling have produced varieties of corn that stay sweet for longer periods after picking, but nothing beats the truly fresh ears that are now coming from our fields.
Corn is highly perishable. The longer it stays off the stalk, the less sweet it becomes. That`s because once the ear is picked, the sugar in those little kernels rapidly converts to starch. (At 104 degrees, a third of the sugar is converted to starch in just 20 minutes.)
Many a corn lover will tell you that the ideal way to prepare it is to first bring a pot of plain water to a rolling boil. Then dash to the field, pick your corn–allow one ear per person plus a ”test” ear–and then dash back to the pot. Shuck the corn as quickly as you can. Dump the ears into the pot, cover the pot and, once the water returns to a boil, cook the ears 2 to 8 minutes. The time will depend not only on the variety and size, but also on the maturity of the ears. That`s why you pick an extra ”test” ear so you can periodically remove it and take a bite to determine the instant it and the others are done.
Pluck the ears from the water and serve immediately, slathered with real, sweet butter. Sorry, but this is no time for margarine. Add some freshly ground pepper and a touch of salt, too.
When the corn is done this way, everyone will want seconds, thirds and maybe even fourths. In which case you repeat your battle plan for each serving, dashing to and from the cornfield. (Don`t complain about the running; it helps burn off some of those calories from the butter.)
Okay, that`s the ideal way to eat corn on the cob.
Now let`s face reality.
As few of us have a field of corn for a backyard, we must rely on our markets–be they farm or super.
Either way, try to shop early in the day at a market that not only brings in corn each morning but keeps that corn under refrigeration so as to delay the sugar-to-starch conversion. Fortunately, much of the corn in markets today is not only picked at the crack of dawn, when it is cooler, but the ears also are plunked into cold water upon picking so they arrive at the market well chilled.
Look for ears that have fresh husks with good green color, silk ends that are free from decay and stem ends that are not too discolored or dry. Kernels should be plump and cover the ear well. Avoid buying ears that are not cool or have been lying for any length of time in the sun. Also, buy only what you can use right away.
Rush the corn home, wrap the unshucked ears in a damp paper towel and put them in the refrigerator until cooking time.
Cook the corn as above, again using an extra ”test” ear for timing purposes, and again cooking only one batch at a time. Keep any ears for ensuing servings in the refrigerator until ready to cook.
To steam corn–and some corn lovers claim this process retains the flavor better–first cut the shucked ears at the stem end so you can stand them upright in a large pot. Pour in about an inch of boiling water, cover the pot and steam the ears over high heat for 6 to 15 minutes. (Don`t forget to include a ”test” ear.) An alternate method is to lay the ears in a vegetable steamer or rack over boiling water before covering and steaming. The only trouble with this method is that you can`t fit too many in one layer and when you double up the layers, the corn cooks unevenly because the steam can`t get through properly.
To roast corn on the cob, remove the silk from around the ears but leave the outer leaves intact. Brush the ears with melted butter before reforming the outer leaves around them. Roast them in a 400-degree oven for 10 to 15 minutes (place the ears directly on the oven rack). Or you may roast them on a barbecue grill for about the same time, turning them frequently with tongs.
Corn also may be cooked in a microwave oven. One way is to first shuck and de-silk the corn. Run each ear under water, then roll up in a piece of waxed paper, twisting the ends of the roll to seal in the moisture. Or you may prepare the corn as if for roasting, removing the silk but leaving the outer leaves intact. Run each ear under water before reforming the outer leaves around them. Either way, place ears in spoke fashion in the microwave oven
–pointed ends toward the center of the oven–and microwave on high for 2 to 2 1/2 minutes per ear.
While most of us eat our corn right off the cob, there are those who also enjoy incorporating fresh corn into various dishes. Some you might like to try:
CORN AND SALMON SOUFFLE
Eight servings
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
2 cups raw corn (you will need about 4 ears)
1 cup cooked, skinless, boneless salmon (either fresh or canned)
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup grated cheese (cheddar, swiss, muenster or gruyere)
1 tablespoon cornstarch
2 tablespoons water
6 large eggs, separated
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Generously butter an 8-cup souffle dish and refrigerate. Using a knife (or a corn scraper, if you have one), scrape the kernels from the cobs until you have 4 cups. Set aside.
2. Flake the salmon coarsely and set that aside. Melt the 3 tablespoons butter in a saucepan and whisk in the flour. When thoroughly blended, whisk in the milk, stirring quickly. When that is well blended, add the salt and pepper. Add the corn and cook for about 3 minutes, stirring frequently.
3. Remove from the heat and add 3/4 cup of the cheese. Blend the cornstarch and water, add to corn mixture and put saucepan back on heat for a minute or two. Whisk in the egg yolks and add nutmeg and cayenne. Continue to heat but do not let mixture boil. Remove from heat and cool slightly.
4. Beat egg whites until stiff and fold into corn mixture. Fill the souffle dish a third of the way up and add half of salmon. Spoon on another third of mixture and add rest of salmon. Top with remaining third of mixture. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup cheese. Bake for 35 minutes or until well risen and nicely browned on top.
CORN OYSTERS
16 to 20 fritters
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
2 cups fresh cooked sweet corn kernels, tightly packed
3 eggs, separated
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons melted butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1. Place corn in a large bowl and stir in egg yolks until well blended. Sift flour, baking powder and sugar. Add melted butter and season with salt and pepper. Blend well.
2. Beat egg whites until stiff and then fold into corn mixture. Drop by teaspoons onto a hot oiled griddle. Fry until nicely browned on both sides, turning once.
SOUTH OF THE BORDER CORN PUDDING
Eight servings
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
1 cup cornmeal
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups shredded sharp cheese
2 eggs, beaten
2 cups milk
1 1/2 cups scraped, raw corn
1 clove garlic, minced
1 can (4 ounces) green chilies, chopped
1/3 cup butter or margarine, melted
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. In large mixing bowl combine cornmeal, baking powder, salt and cheese. Add eggs and milk. Stir in corn, garlic, chilies and butter or margarine. Pour into a greased 1 1/2-quart casserole and bake for 1 hour.
