AUSTIN KOO`S MANDARIN RESTAURANT, 318 W. Adams St., 853-1155. Chinese. This basement-level restaurant is sleek, pleasant and bright, but the food`s quality seems to come and go with the crowds. At lunch, it is busy and the fare is good, basic stuff. At night, it is more quiet and the food is more erratic. Recommended: Szechwan snails, hot and sour soup, mu su, Szechwan orange beef, kung bao shrimp. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 4-9 p.m. Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, D, M, V.
Reservations: Accepted. Other: No smoking section, wheelchair accessible.–PAC (STAR)
THE BIRD, 1119 N. 25th St., Melrose Park, 681-0414. Chinese. Ben Moy created a following with successive restaurants in Skokie, Glenview, Evanston and now in this factory/warehouse section of Melrose Park by keeping his food creative and the atmosphere obscure. This is Cantonese a la Ben Moy. Which means anything–French, Italian, American or pure Moy–that improves the dish goes in the dish. Recommended: Wings of the bird, boneless crispy-skin chicken, fresh lobster in wine and leek sauce, Peking-style duck. Hours:
Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tue-Fri; dinner, 4:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Tue-Fri, to 11 Sat.; closed Sunday and Monday. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: None. Cash or personal check. Reservations: Accepted. Other: No liquor; $1 a person corkage fee when bringing your own. PT (STAR)(STAR)
CHARLIE CHIANG`S, 158 E. Ontario St., 944-1917. Chinese. Charlie Chiang`s serves pretty good Mandarin and Szechwan food in a sophisticated-looking and comfortable room. But the menu needs more consistency. Recommended: Deep-fried shrimp balls, Ma La pheasant, sesame chicken, sweet and sour pork, seafood. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 daily. brunch, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Sun. Price range:
Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–PAC (STAR)
FURAMA, 4936 N. Broadway, 271-1161. Chinese. Here is one of the few restaurants in town offering a generous, daily selection of dim sum, a kind of Taste of China in which the food comes rolling to the customer. After the dim sum carts are put aside, however, the place turns into a much too ambitious and mediocre Chinese restaurant. Recommended: Shrimp toast, funn rolls (thick, soft, rice flour crepes filled with shrimp, meat or vegetables and either steamed or fried on the spot), mochi rice with meat (sticky rice, wrapped in a huge lotus leaf), fried taro root puff. Hours: 9:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 9:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri., Sat.; 9:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Free parking on weekends only, 1 block north on Broadway.–PT (STAR)
HOUSE OF HUNAN, 535 N. Michigan Ave., 329-9494. The first of the great Michigan Avenue Chinese restaurants, this place taught many the pleasures of Hunan-style cooking. Its menu keeps evolving and new dishes uncover new delights. Presentation of house specialties makes the beholding as important as the eating. Recommended: Pot stickers, hacked chicken, beef and scallops, pike with pine nuts, Hunan beef, spicy bean curd. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. daily. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–MK (STAR)(STAR)
MOON PALACE, 2206 Wentworth Ave., 225-4081. Mandarin. Head to the second floor for linen-covered tables and a large menu of well prepared specialties. You may wait for a seat, but then service is quick. Recommended: Steamed dumplings, sizzling rice soup, tea duck, shrimp saute, Szechwan sliced beef, lychee nuts. Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; to 10:30 p.m. Fri., Sat. Price range: moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other:
Reduced parking.–PT (STAR)(STAR)
SZECHUAN EAST, 1934 N. Clark St., 642-9000. Chinese. With expansive windows overlooking Lincoln Park, this restaurant has one of the city`s prettiest ground-level prospects. The generally competent cooking often overdoes the sauces, but fans of spicy Chinese provincial cooking will find plenty to pique their interest. Recommended: Ma la chicken soong, kung pao pike, orange beef. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri., 5-11 p.m. Sat., noon-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, D, M, V.–MK (STAR)
SZECHWAN HOUSE, 600 N. Michigan Ave., 642-3900. One of Chicago`s most elegant Chinese restaurants, Szechwan House serves food that surpasses even its decor. Everything moves smoothly as waiters race from table to table bringing course after course. Lunch features a superb, reasonably priced buffet loaded with specialties. Recommended: Dumplings, shrimp toast, mu shu dishes, scallops, sweet and sour pork, garlic chicken. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri., Sat. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–MK (STAR)
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ECLECTIC
AMERIQUE, 900 N. Franklin St., 943-6341. Eclectic. A small but definitely up-and-coming restaurant that combines French and Italian influences. An interesting eatery with pleasant surprises. Recommended: Crepe torte, baked garlic, squid agrodolce, duck, pork, desserts. Hours: Lunch, noon-3 p.m. Tues.-Fri.; dinner, 6-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs, 6-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; closed Sun. and Mon. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: CB, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Free parking in lots behind building.–PAC
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METROPOLIS CAFE, 163 W. North Ave., 642-2130. Eclectic. This is not a place to be seen, but a place to relax with friends over very good, moderately priced food and simple wine. Dishes from the takeout counter are imaginative and assertively spiced, yet homey. Recommended: Country-style pate with prunes, seafood sausage, turban of eggplant, roast pork, bread pudding, cappuccino. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; to 10:30 p.m. Fri., Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: No cards. Cash or checks with identification. Reservations: Not accepted.–PT(STAR)(STAR)
PERIWINKLE, 310 N. Green Bay Rd., Highwood, 433-8440. Eclectic. A creative menu offers a plethora of upscale items served on polished oak tables by an affable young staff. A fine assortment of brewed-at-the-table coffees and teas hails from Periwinkle`s Lincoln Park location. Recommended: Seafood ceviche, seasonal; mixed grill with cinnamon-shallot butter, pesto and chive sauce; tuna with black peppercorn; Fresh homemade ice cream. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tue.-Fri.; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; til 11 p.m. Fri, Sat.; 4-8 p.m. Sun. Closed Mon. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–PT (STAR)(STAR)
FRENCH
ALOUETTE, 440 N. Green Bay Rd., Highwood, 433-5600. French. A handsome, upscale country inn with quiet chamber music, this North Shore establishment boasts good to excellent fare that changes daily and an unusually extensive wine list for a relatively small restaurant. Midweek special of $15.95 for four-course table d`hote dinner is a true bargain. Recommended: Shrimp terrine, coq au vin, steamed striped bass. Hours: 5 p.m.-midnight daily. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, CB, M, V. Reservations:
Accepted. Other: Free parking.–PT (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
AMBRIA, 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, 472-5959. Nouvelle cuisine. Innovative cuisine, knock-out presentations and gracious service mark this star of Richard Melman`s empire as one of the best restaurants in town. This is serious food served under almost comically pompous sterling silver domes. Much credit goes to chef Gambino Sotelino and wine stewart Robert Bansberg. Recommended: Squab, grilled fish, souffles, creme brulee. Seven-course degustation, $42 a person. Hours: 6-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 6-10:30 p.m. Sat., Sun., Closed Mon. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Other: Valet parking, $4.–PT (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
CAFE DU PARC, 2442 N. Clark St., 525-1800. French. La Fontaine, one of Chicago`s oldest French restaurants, has become a pleasant bistro serving good food in a provincial setting. The menu emphasizes lightness in both the cooking and the prices. An added bonus for early diners–15 percent discount for orders placed before 7 p.m. Recommended: Tarte tropezienne, crab cakes, pates, swordfish, linguini with frog legs provencale, sauteed rabbit, pot au feu. Hours: 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V.–MK (STAR)(STAR)
CAFE PROVENCAL, 1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston, 475-2233. French. This lovely restaurant in the Homestead Hotel has quiet classical music in the background, a fine wine list and very competent service overseen personally by owner-chef Leslee Reis. This easily ranks as one of the more romantic spots in town. And the cuisine is excellent. Ingredients are particularly fresh, especially the fish, and accompaniments are exceptionally well thought out for color and taste. Recommended: Sauteed wild mushrooms, soups, broiled fish, ice cream cake roll. Hours: 6-9 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; to 10 p.m. Fri., Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Valet parking.–PT (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
CARLOS RESTAURANT, 429 Temple Ave., Highland Park, 432-0770. French. Everything goes so smoothly at Carlos, one of the Chicago area`s best restaurants, that even a three-hour dinner seems to fly by.. Recommended:
Fresh grilled goose liver, salmon sausage with basil sauce, mushroom pate, pink grapefruit sorbet, veal medallions sauteed with a confit of ginger, assiette of squab, flourless chocolate cake, fruit tarts, mango with butterscotch. Hours: 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Wed.-Mon., closed Tues. Price range:
expensive. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Required. Other: Valet parking.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
THE CHARDONNAY, 2635 N. Halsted St., 477-5130. French. Wonderfully uncomplicated, moderately priced French cooking and excellent wines by the glass make this one of the city`s better restaurants. The brief menu changes every other week to take advantage of seasonal ingredients and to keep regulars coming back for more. Too much sampling from the attractive wine list can quickly run up a bill. Recommended: pastry appetizer, soup, fish of the day, chicken. Hours: Dinner 5-10 p.m. Tues.-Sat. (wine bar opens at 4:30 p.m.); 3-9 p.m. Sun.; closed Mon. Price range: moderate. Credit cards: M, V, DC. Reservations: recommended. Other: Outdoor courtyard with grilled seafood, Valet parking, $2:50.–MK (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
CIEL BLEU, in the Mayfair Regent Hotel, 181 E. Lake Shore Dr., 951-2864. French. One of few hotel restaurants with very good food. Ciel Bleu also has a sophisticated interior and a terrific view of the Chicago skyline. Chef Dominique Fortin brings creative and classical touches to the rich food. Recommended: Soups, salads, grilled swordfish, sauteed Dover sole, roasted magret of duck, lamb, desserts. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.;
noon-2 p.m. Sat.; dinner, 6-9:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 5:30-9:30 p.m. Fri., Sat. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations:
Recommended. Other: Valet parking.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
DINING ROOM, Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Water Tower Place, 227-5866. The impeccable service, lovely dining room and consistently high class food, along with a $35 fixed-price menu, make this a hotel restaurant worth trying. Recommended: Specials on prix fixe menu, pates, soups, poached salmon, squab, veal, dessert cart selections. Hours: Dinner 6-11 p.m. daily, 6-10 Sun. brunch 10:30 am.-2 p.m. Sun; 1-2 p.m. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations:
Required.–CH (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
EVEREST ROOM, 440 S. LaSalle St., 663-8920. French. A great restaurant in the heart of Chicago`s financial district? Yes, and this rooftop temple of gastronomic delights also disproves the maxim that no outstanding dining room has a magnificent view. Chef Jean Joho`s inspired cooking and elegant presentation are classically French but never overwhelm basic ingredients. Recommended: Escargots, shrimp in a sack, salad with goat cheese, soups, souffled salmon, rack of lamb, squab, trout with beaujolais sauce, pheasant with basil, hazelnut souffle, profiteroles. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5:30-8:30 p.m. Tues.-Thrus., 5:30-9:30 p.m. Fri., Sat. Closed Sunday. Price range: Expensive. Reservations: accepted. Credit cards:
A, D, M, V.–MK (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
JACKIE`S, 2478 N. Lincoln Ave., 880-0003. French with Oriental tones. Those out for a Food Experience will find it here in this small, low-key room. The cuisine dazzles with a wide array of ingredients and carefully thought-out combinations, making it the Near North`s best example of serious dining. Recommended: Phyllo nest with scallops, cream of watercress broth, red snapper with shrimp, game trio, chocolate raisin walnut torte, chocolate bag with white chocolate mousse. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Tues.- Sat.; dinner 5:45-8:30 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; 5:30-9:30 Fri.-Sat.; closed Sun., Mon. Price range: expensive. Credit cards: A, C, M, V. Reservations: Necessary.–PAC
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JIMMY`S PLACE, 3420 N. Elston Ave., 539-2999. French. With no apologies to those who prefer placid background music, the works of Puccini, Verdi and Bellini–”Wagner is out, I just can`t!” owner Jimmy Rohr explains–are a constant companion to diners at this artsy, gardenlike, operatic-theme restaurant. The kitchen has recently returned to a more classic French menu. Service is unobtrusive and professional. Recommended: Seafood mousse, cream of mussel soup, homemade Thousand Island dressing, sauteed red snapper with garlic and saffron sauce, sauteed beef filet with beef marrow, opera cake. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5 p.m.-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: C, DC, M, V. Reservations:
Necessary. Other: Free parking. PT (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
LA FORET, Westminster and Forest Avenues, Lake Forest, 295-8300. French. Carlos Nieto`s takeover of Sinclair`s results in an expansive interior and food less complex and consistent than can be found at Carlos, Nieto`s other restaurant. The menu is sensibly short and the service is excellent. Recommended: Appetizers, spinach salad, duck salad, rack of lamb, steak, grilled red snapper. Hours: 5:30-9 p.m. Tues.-Sun. Closed Mon. Price range:
Expensive. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Jacket required for men, free parking.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
LA TOUR, in the Park Hyatt, 800 N. Michigan Ave., 280-2230. One of the city`s most romantic dining rooms, La Tour is also gaining a reputation for fine food. Indeed, everything sampled on a recent visit pleased the palate and delighted the eye. Portions here are very large, especially when compared to other French restaurants. Service is excellent. Recommended: goat cheese gratin with red pepper sauce, New York state duck liver, raw oysters with creme fraiche, pheasant consomme with morels, strip steak with bordelaise sauce, roast chicken with morel cream sauce, veal chop with apples and Armagnac, Grand Marnier souffle and chocolate mousse. Hours: Daily breakfast 7 a.m. to 10:30 a.m., daily lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., daily dinner 6 p.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday brunch 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Price Range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, DC, M, V. Reservations: Recommended.–JMB (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
LE COCHONNET, 3443 N. Sheffield Ave., 525-3888. French. This off-the-beaten-path restaurant offers no gimmicks to attract the new breed of food groupies, but it has something better: good French food at reasonable prices. The hand-written menu, featuring both classic and innovative dishes, changes nightly. Recommended: ratatouille; deep-fried goat cheese, pork chop with rosemary, walnuts and sun-dried tomatoes; tournedos of beef; bread pudding. Hours: 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 5:30 to 11:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; 5:30-9:30 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted; suggested for the weekend.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
LE FRANCAIS, 269 S. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling, 541-7470. Although the debate goes on, many knowledgeable diners say this is the finest restaurant in the country. A recent visit does nothing to dispel this notion. Chef Jean Banchet`s food is exquisitely prepared and presented, service is excellent and the atmosphere is heavy with joie de vivre. Recommended dishes: crab cakes with wild mushrooms and ginger sauce, smoked salmon filled with crabmeat, foie gras with grapes, consomme with truffles, curly salad with warm goat cheese, roast pheasant with morel sauce, veal with endive and wild mushroom sauce, Alaskan salmon and sea bass in puff pastry with dill sauce, grapefruit sorbet, raspberry souffle, feuilletee with raspberries and caramel sauce. Hours:
Tuesday through Sunday, two seatings 6:30 p.m. and 9 or 9:30 p.m. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, DC, M, V. Reservations: Necessary. Other:
Valet parking; jacket required. –JMB (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
LE PERR0QUET, 70 E. Walton St., 3rd floor, 944-7990. This outpost of French culture and cuisine is so remarkably civilized and calm (despite construction across the street) that rarely does a mousse so much as quiver. Look elsewhere to find excitement. Despite the witty, whimsical decor, trendy never is spoken here. Instead, Le Perroquet pleases customers the old-fashioned way: with formal, discreet service, a menu featuring classic modern French creations and attention to detail in the kitchen that insures beautifully arranged plates and impeccable, full-flavored sauces. The French- oriented wine list includes reasonably priced selection from older vintages. At $16.75, the three-course fixed-price lunch is an haute bargain.
Recommended: House cocktail (the ”pink drink”), mussels in cream sauce, entree and dessert mousses and souffles, poached or steamed fish, roast veal, lamb rack and saddle, duck with zinfandel sauce. Hours: Lunch, noon-2:30 Mon.- Fri.; dinner, 6-10 p.m., Mon.-Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, DC. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Entrance by private elevator from lobby.–WR (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
L`ESCARGOT ON HALSTED, 2925 N. Halsted St., 525-5522. French. The newer Halsted location of this two-restaurant chain is the more casual, closer in spirit to the original 1968 L`Escargot on Halsted, which introduced Chicagoans to moderately priced, casual French provincial cooking but suffered damage from a fire and had to be rebuilt. Hours: Dinner 5-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit: A, CB, D, DC, M, V. Reservations:
Accepted. Other: free parking evenings 1 1/2 blocks north at St. Sebastian School, 810 W. Wellington Ave.–PT (STAR)(STAR)
L`ESCARGOT ON MICHIGAN, 701 N. Michigan Ave., 337-1717. The large, handsome, Michigan Avenue location makes a stately first impression, tends to be quieter and has more evenly paced service than the Halsted Street L`Escorgot. Recommended: Shiitake mushrooms in puff pastry, onion soup, sauteed seabass with sea urchin sauce, cassoulet, pastries. Hours: Breakfast, 7 a.m-10 a.m. Mon.-Sat; Brunch 7 a.m.-10 a.m. Sun.; Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; dinner 5-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., to 10:30 p.m. Fri., Sat. Other: On Michigan: free validated parking at Sheraton Plaza Hotel.
LES PLUMES, 2044 N. Halsted St., 525-0121. French. Les Plumes emerged as one of the best new restaurants of 1985. Owned by two alumni of Le Francais in Wheeling, the small, romantic place features high-quality and interesting food –especially the fabulous desserts. A small courtyard makes for civilized al fresco dining. Recommended: Artichoke soup, duck salad, tourte Milanaise, fish with three sauces, veal chop with tomato, sea bass with fennel, sweetbreads, creme brulee. Hours: Dinner, 5:30-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., to 10 p.m. Fri., Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Expensive. Credit Cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Other: No jeans; jacket or tie for men.–CH (STAR) (STAR)(STAR)
MONIQUE`S CAFE, 213 W. Institute Pl., 642-2210. French. Caterer and cooking teacher Monique Hooker has revived part of an old warehouse into a smart, high-tech loft for lunch and carryouts. Ask to eat at the bar if the wait is too long. Fine place to sip wine or coffee with classical music playing in the background. Recommended: Fresh breads, pork-veal-pistachio pate, salad nicoise, daily special fish, chocolate-walnut-caramel torte. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m. Tues., Wed, Thurs., 5:30-10:30 Fri., Sat.; brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun. Price range:
Moderate. Credit cards: A, DC, M, CB. Reservations: Dinner only.–PT (STAR)
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YOSHI`S CAFE, 3257 N. Halsted St., 248-6160. French. Chef Yoshi Katsumura makes every dish he serves in his nouvelle cuisine restaurant look as if it just leaped off the pages of a food magazine. Cooking here leans toward lightness, but not at the sacrifice of flavor. Recommended: Duck breast with black currant sauce, beef tenderloin bordelaise with shiitake mushrooms and beef marrow, fresh New York foie gras pate, quail salad with radicchio, mache and a warm viniagrette, raspberry gratinee. Menu changes seasonally. Hours: Dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Tues.-Thur.; to 10:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat; 5-9 p.m. Sun.; closed Mon. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Necessary.–ML (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
ZINCS, 555 W. Madison St., 902-2900. French/American. One of the new popular bistro-style restaurants, Zincs calls itself a ”restaurant-brasserie, bar Americain” and is an excellent example of its kind. The extensive menu results in occasional inconsistency, but the kitchen turns out many exceptional items. Recommended: French-style pizza, fried oyster brochette, snails, daily specials, fries, confit of duck, grilled salmon steak, salads. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Other: Free valet parking.–PAC (STAR)
