HATSUHANA, 160 E. Ontario St., 280-8287. Japanese. An elegant, lively place especially good for its sushi, with more than 30 varieties of fresh, raw seafood and a chart to help diners decide. Service can be slow on busy days and the waitstaff needs some polishing on language and cuisine. Recommended:
Sushi, sashimi, tempura, teriyaki. Hours: Lunch noon-2 p.m.; dinner 5:45-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 5:30-10 p.m. Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, Japanese Creidt Bureau, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: No-smoking section, wheelchair-accessible, free parking.–PAC (STAR)(STAR) (STAR) DARUMA OF SCHAUMBURG, 1823 W. Golf Rd., Schaumburg, 310-8877. Japanese/
French. Very good Japanese food, charming tea rooms with lilting Oriental music, sushi bar and extensive menu more than warrant a visit to this new restaurant. Try makunouchi, a sort of Japanese combination plate presented in a lovely lacquered box. Recommended: Sushi, sashimi, shrimp and vegetable tempura, shabu shabu (a fondue/soup). From the Japanese langugage appetizer menu, kani motoyaki (crab legs with hollandaise), anago isobeyaki (sea eel and cucumber wrapped in seaweed) and asari butteryaki (steamed clams in butter). Fresh orange gelatin for dessert. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tue.-Fri.;
dinner, 5-10 p.m. Tue.-Thurs., Sun.; to 11 p.m. Fri., Sat. Closed Mon. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted for tea rooms for four or more on weekends.–PT (STAR)(STAR)
OHBA, 101 E. Ontario St., 266-7733. Japanese. A very good, low-key restaurant with a wide offering of Japanese specialties, including sushi and shabu shabu. The waitstaff is not the most knowledgeable, but a little research should prepare one for almost anything on the menu. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Recommended: Miso soup, teriyaki, sukiyaki and shabu shabu. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, Japanese Credit Bureau, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: No-smoking section, wheelchair-accessible, free parking.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
TOKYO MARINA, 5058-60 N. Clark, 878-2900. Japanese. This bright, cheery neighborhood eatery presents down-home Japanese cooking at its most enjoyable. The food isn`t as elegant as other places in town, but diners get sound value for money spent. Besides the usual sushi bar, there`s a tempura-yakitori bar. Combination plates delight the truly hungry. Recommended: Yakitori, pork dumplings, mackerel teriyaki, eel teriyaki, tonkatsu, sukiyaki. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-midnight daily. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: M, V. Other: 20%
discount for senior citizens.–MK (STAR)(STAR)
KOREAN
SHILLA, 5930 N. Lincoln Ave., 275-5930. Korean. The attractive setting is a true culture escape, especially if you reserve (two weeks` notice) one of the eight private banquet rooms. English is limited, but the menu is clear. Recommended: Barbecued short ribs, shrimp tempura, sashimi, Sapporo beer. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. daily. Price range: moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted–PT (STAR)(STAR)
MEXICAN
COSTA AZUL, 821 N. Ashland Ave., 243-9244. Mexican. Fancy this restaurant definitely is not. Diners don`t come here for the decor, they come for some of the finest Mexican seafood around. Portions are incredibly generous, prices moderate. Recommended: Butterflied shrimp a la plancha, deep-fried red snapper (best dish in the house), spicy seviche, flan. Hours: 8 a.m.-midnight Mon.-Thurs.; 8-4 a.m. Fri.-Sat.; 8-2 a.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Necessary on weekends.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
FRONTERA GRILL, 445 N. Clark St., 661-1434. Mexican. Believed to be Chicago`s first ”serious Mexican restaurant.” Owned by Mexican cookbook authors Rick and Deann Groen Bayless, Frontera is an extension of their
”Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico.”
Recommended: Mole dishes, quesadillas, taquitos, queso fundido, sopes, desserts. Hours: lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tues.-Fri.; dinner, 5:30-10 p.m. Tues.-Thurs., 5:30-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; brunch, 8:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sat. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: American Express, Mastercard, Visa.
Reservations: For six or more. Other: No smoking section.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
POLISH/EASTERN EUROPEAN
ARCADIA, 2943 N. Milwaukee Ave., 342-1464. Polish. For the price, Arcadia is an exceptional restaurant that everyone who enjoys ethnic eating should try. You`ll find groups of Polish-speaking patrons here sipping vodka poured straight from the bottle and exchanging stories. Arcadia rises above the normal diner-esque decor of most other ethnic spots around town. Portions are exceptionally large. More ambitious than most, the menu also offers a variety of French and Continental dishes such as Chateaubriand. Homemade soups with above average flavor are a must. Recommended: Chicken noodle soup, Polish sausage, stuffed cabbage, roast pork with prunes, almond-chocolate-raisin cake. Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Price range: Inexpensive. Credit cards:
Not accepted. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Handicapped-accessible.–PAC
(STAR)(STAR)
MAREVA`S, 1250 N. Milwaukee Ave., 227-4000. A rather elegant, European restaurant on unelegant Milwaukee Avenue that doesn`t get the respect it deserves. Bills itself nouvelle, but good solid food is found here. Recommended: Borscht, shrimp Mareva, oysters Rockefeller, pierogis, uszka. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 4-10 p.m. Saturday, 11-8 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Free valet parking, wheelchair access but restrooms downstairs.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
GALANS, 2212 W. Chicago Ave., 292-1000. Ukranian. A refreshingly real Eastern European restaurant in the heart of Chicago`s Ukrainian Village, Galans maintains centuries-old traditions in a fresh contemporary interior. Recommended: Ikra (fish roe dish), steak tartare, borscht, kovbassa, kartoplyanyk, strudel. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Sat.; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.; close Mon. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations:
Accepted. Other: Free parking across the street.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
MIOMIR`S SERBIAN CLUB, 2255 W. Lawrence Ave., 784-2111. Serbian. People come attired in everything from evening dresses to blue jeans and are greeted with equal warmth and European charm. Miomir`s is perhaps the quintessential Chicago-style restaurant, mixing hospitality and huge portions of hearty, good food at a reasonable price and a wide range of ethnic influences. Hours: 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Sun.-Fri.; 5 p.m.-3 a.m. Sat. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Accepted.
RIBS
ROBINSON`S NO. 1 RIBS, 655 W. Armitage Ave., 337-1399. Barbecue. As one would expect from a North-Side location, the interior seems a bit too classy for a rib joint. It`s open and bright with light wood and Formica and it serves a franchise version of ribs from Charlie Robinson, the 1984 winner of Mike Royko`s Ribfest. Robinson`s sauce strikes just the right sweet/tart balance with a spicy kick that tickles the tastebuds without scorching them, but the ribs lack that real smoky flavor of the original. Recommended: Ribs, chicken, sweet potato pie. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 11-1 a.m. Fri., Sat. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: M, V, A, Telecheck. Reservations:
Accepted for parties of 6 or more.–PAC (STAR)
RUSSIAN
KAVKAZ RESTAURANT, 6405 N. Claremont Ave., 675-4490. Georgian-Russian. Georgian cuisine combines Central European peasant fare with Middle Eastern spices and meats. In true Russian style, excellent appetizers and unusual soups contribute most to the enjoyment of a meal. Enthusiastic good humor from the owner-waitress makes everyone feel welcome and practically a member of the family. Entertainment on weekends. Recommended: Chicken in walnut sauce, eggplant caviar, borscht, shashlik, chicken tabaka. Hours: Noon-10 p.m. Mon.- Thurs., to 1 a.m. Fri., to 2 a.m. Sat., to midnight Sun. Price range:
Moderate. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–MK (STAR)
SEAFOOD
BAY STREET, 17 W. 648 22d St., Oakbrook Terrace, 495-2477. Seafood. This first Chicago-area outpost of a national chain caters to the new trend of lighter eating with a simple menu of fresh fish and vegetables. The pasta dishes are also popular, and the restaurant offers plenty for the fan of spicy Cajun food. Recommended: Grilled fish, sauteed fish, shrimp Creole, seafood primavera. Hours: 11 a.m.-10; bar open til 11 p.m.; Sun.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-11;
bar open til midnight Fri., Sat. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations: Preferred seating.–MK (STAR)
NICK`S FISHMARKET, 1 First National Plaza, 621-0200. Seafood. If you`re looking for power dining, look no further. The quintessential expense-account restaurant, Nick`s just happens to serve seafood. Still, the food is good and fresh, and nowhere in the area are diners treated more like VIPs. Recommended: assorted cold seafood appetizer platter, broiled swordfish with hollandaise, abalone, chocolate cake. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5:30-11:30 p.m. Mon.-Thur., 5:30-midnight Fri., Sat., closed Sun. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Other:
Valet parking after 5:30 p.m., handicap facilities.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
PHILANDER`S, 1120 Pleasant St., Oak Park, 848-4250. Seafood. A must stop for excellent seafood, from simple sauteed scallops to spicy barbecued shrimp creole style, plus what is likely the best selection of pristinely fresh oysters in the Chicago area. The richly decorated rooms in the Carleton Hotel belie the youth of the restaurant. The area is well worth a quiet walk past well-kept, important-looking houses. Recommended: Fresh oyster assortment, ceviche, broiled flounder, finnan haddie, Petersen`s ice cream, dessert assortment. Hours: 4-1 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 4-2 p.m. Fri., Sat.; closed Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: 4:30-6:30 half-price/half-portion discount on orders.–PT
(STAR)(STAR)
PHIL SMIDT & SON, 1205 N. Calumet Ave., Hammond, 219-659-0025; Chicago 768-6686. Forget the drab industrial surroundings and your troubles. The outside world should fade away once you`ve cleared the reception desk in this sprawling, well maintained vintage `50s road house. The waitresses are cheerful and solicitous. The appetizer relish tray takes the edge off your appetite if there has been a long wait. There are only two major decisions to make, whether to order perch fillets or frog legs, and whether to order them sauteed or fried. There may be a better answer, but there isn`t a wrong one to either question. The regulars don`t come here for nostalgia. They come to eat. A second helping is yours for the asking at dinner. Recommended: cottage cheese, cole slaw, lake perch, frog legs, gooseberry or blueberry pie a la mode. Hours: 11:15 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Mon.-Thurs.; 11:15 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Fri., Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted at dinner for seven or more.–WR (STAR)(STAR)
THE WATERFRONT, 16 W. Maple St., 943-7494. Seafood. This has moved from its reliable Rush Street location without losing the simple but high quality seafood in transition. The decor is dressed up, but the sense of humor from this restaurant still prevails. Recommended: Shellfish, cioppino, sole, Alaskan king crab, mal de mar. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-midnight Mon.-Thurs.; 11:30-1 a.m. Fri., Sat.; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Valet parking, $5, after 5 p.m.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
SPANISH
CAFE BA-BA-REEBA!, 2024 N. Halsted St., 935-5000. Spanish. Tapas have arrived. This Spanish tradition offers a huge array of appetizers served in small portions. Hungry folks can graze their way through this smorgasbord to create full dinners. Every one of the dozens of nightly choices has its own distinctive character, making every visit a new symphony of flavors. Recommended: Potato salad, blood sausage, paella, tart. Hours: Lunch: 11:30-2 p.m. Tues-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 5:30 p.m.-midnight Fri., 5-midnight Sat.; 5-10:30 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: During lunch hours only.–MK (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
RIO`S CASA IBERIA, 4611 N. Kedzie Ave., 588-7800. Spanish/Portuguese/
Brazil ian. Chicago`s only such restaurant produces skillfully done and pleasantly spiced specialties. The modest interior belies the good value Rio`s offers. Recommended: Marinated pork tips, steamed mussels, roasted Portuguese sausage, fejoada, seafood casserole. Hours: 5-10:30 p.m. Sun., Tues.-Thurs.;
5-11:30 p.m. Fri., Sat.; closed Mon. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted; Recommended on weekends.–PAC (STAR)
(STAR)
STEAK
CHICAGO CHOP HOUSE, 60 W. Ontario St., 787-7100. Steaks. A newly opened good ol` fashioned steak house that`s no Morton`s or Eli`s but definitely with a charm its own. Owner is veteran restaurateur Henry Norton, who has turned out a nostalgic place with good food that will get better with more consistent, careful preparation. Recommended: Appetizers, filet, New York strip, roast prime rib, chicken vesuvio, seafood. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; dinner, 5 p.m.-midnight, Sun.-Thurs, 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Fri., Sat. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations:
Accepted. Other: Valet parking.–PAC (STAR)
ELI`S THE STEAKS PLACE, 215 E. Chicago Ave. 642-1393. Steak. Politicians, sports figures, judges and celebrities alike pay regular homage to Eli Schulman, who reciprocates with chopped liver, tableside attention, and, yes, some of the best steak in town. Save room for Eli`s famous cream cheese-based cheesecake, which has become such a big retail and wholesale business that it isn`t even made on the premises anymore. Quiet decor, smooth veteran waiters. Recommended: steak, shrimp de jonghe, sauteed calves liver, potato pancakes, cheesecake. Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon-Fri; dinner, 4 p.m.-10:30 p.m. daily. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, DC. Reservations:
Accepted. PT (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
GINO`S STEAK HOUSE, 163d and Wallace, Harvey, 331-4393. Steak. This South Side establishment is a step back in time to when beef was king, waitresses wore bee-hive hairdos, and dinner came with a big relish tray–the best such vegetable tray in Chicago. Dinner includes a meal`s worth of complimentary appetizers and, if you`re bored, a few shots on a six-hole putting green off the bar. Recommended: Steak, ribs, broiled scampi, sauteed mushrooms, tomato bread, strawberry shortcake. Hours: 4 p.m.-midnight, Mon.-Sat., closed Sunday. Price range: moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: free parking; coat and tie dress code. PT (STAR)
MORTON`S OF CHICAGO, One Westbrook Corporate Center, 22d Street and Wolf Road, Westchester, 562-7000. Steak. You won`t find a better steak–thick, prime and dry-aged–than at this new Morton`s spinoff in the western suburbs. The sleek look, with Frank Sinatra crooning in the background, and an amiable staff from maitre d` to wine steward also make it worth the tariff. Recommended: Steaks, prime rib, baked potatoes, hash browns, spinach salad. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon-Fri., dinner 5:30-11 p.m. Mon.-Fri.;
5:30-11:30 p.m. Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted; til 6:30 on Sat. Other: Handicapped access; free valet parking.–PT (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
THAI
ARUN`S, 3434 W. Irving Park Rd., 539-1909. Thai. Both decor and cuisine exceed expectations in this charming, tiny room. Arun`s also demonstrates that while some some Thai dishes can be fiery, not all Thai cooking is eye-watering. Careful garnishing of every dish makes the food look as good as it tastes. Daily specials rotate weekly. Recommended: Stuffed chicken wing, pork satay, tom yum goong, chicken with basil and garlic, beef curry. Hours: 5-10 p.m. Mon., Wed-Sun.; closed Tues. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V,C, DC. Reservations: Recommended. Other: No liquor; diners may bring their own wine or beer.–MK (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
RIVER KWAI, 440 N. State St. 644-1144. Thai. There may be better Thai restaurants, but River Kwai holds its own quite nicely with its nearby competitors and provides a good alternative to waiting in line. The place may not win any awards for design, but it`s comfortable. It also offers a few more unusual specialties, such as chicken wrapped in corn husk. Recommended: Tom yum, a sort of Thai version of hot and sour soup; pad kari, homemade coconut ice cream. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 4-10 p.m. Sun. Prices: Soups, appetizers and salads: $1.50-$4.75, entrees:
$3.50-$6.95, desserts: $1.50-$1.95. Dinner for two of appetizer or soup, entree, dessert, tax and tip: $25. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–PAC (STAR)
SRI UTHAI, 4323 W. Addison St., 725-6751. Thai. Friendly, neighborhood family place, with unpretentious decor. The food offers compelling reasons to make the trek, though there may be some communication problems. Recommended:
Flaming sate, shrimp uthai, tod mun, chicken coconut soup, red beef curry. Hours: Buffet 11:30-2:30 p.m. Wed.-Fri., 4:30-9:30 p.m. Wed.-Fri., 4:30–10 p.m. Sat., Sun. Closed Mon and Tues. Price range: Inexpensive. Credit cards:
M, V. None accepted. Reservations: Accepted.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
VIETNAMESE
MEKONG HOUSE, 400 N. State St., 222-9191. Vietnamese. A comfortable, visually pleasing and reasonably priced restaurant with bar that`s a welcome addition to downtown`s ethnic eateries. Better than its North Broadway sister, this restaurant serves very good Southeast Asian food. Recommended:
Appetizers, soups, fire pot, fried whole red snapper, sauteed lobster, sizzling platter. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 5-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–PAC (STAR)(STAR) TANA, 5100 N. Broadway, 878-3642. Vietnamese. Yet another example of the growing breed of family-run storefront restaurants, Tana serves good Vietnamese food at economical prices. A broad sampling of appetizers makes the best meal here since many of the entrees taste the same. No liquor; bring your own wine or beer. Recommended: Vietnamese pizza, thit bo cuon trang, orange-flavored chicken, Steam whole fish. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon., Wed., Thurs.; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.; 11 a.m.-11 p. m. Sat.; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. Closed Tues. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: DC, A, M, V. Reservations:
Accepted.–MK (STAR)
