One night in Paris, while I was talking with the chef in Jacques Cagna`s two-star restaurant at closing time, a couple came in and asked if it would be possible to get dinner.
Since hospitality in France is considered almost as important as the quality of food, the chef said they would be delighted to have them, but the full menu wouldn`t be available. He recommended duck breasts cooked like steaks, accompanied by pommes darphin.
Never having heard of potatoes ”darphin” (pronounced dar-fan), I stayed to see how it was done.
The chef generously buttered an 8-inch black steel saute pan and placed it on a burner. After the butter had foamed and the foam had subsided, he grated some peeled potatoes quickly, directly into the pan, salting and peppering them from time to time. When the grated potatoes were an inch deep, the chef pressed down on them with a spatula, shook the pan a few times to keep the potato cake from sticking, then went back to preparing the rest of the dinner.
Occasionally, he returned to the potatoes, shook the pan again, then added a few bits of butter around the side. After about 10 minutes, he lifted the pan quickly, tossed the potato cake over and let it cook 6 to 8 minutes more.
He turned the cake onto a clean linen towel, carefully patted off any excess grease, then cut the cake into wedge-shape portions for the waiting customers. He saved a wedge for me, which I ate eagerly.
The golden brown, crisp and crunchy crust contrasted deliciously with the soft, creamy interior. There are other potato dishes that reach for this perfect contrast-dishes such as potatoes Anna, and even french fries-but darphin are easier to make. I`ve added this simple potato preparation to the repertoire at our cooking school.
At first, some students will say, ”Oh, hash-browns.” There is some resemblance between potatoes darphin and hash-browns, as well as the Swiss potato dish, rosti (or roesti, pronounced roeh-stee).
The similarities and contrasts among these three versions are interesting. In America hash-browns usually are served for breakfast and are made with fully cooked potatoes, originally chopped, now often grated. In Switzerland, rosti are served for dinner or a country breakfast, are considered peasant fare and are made with partially cooked potatoes. In France, potatoes darphin are served only for dinner, usually with grilled meats or poultry, and the potatoes are used raw.
In all cases, waxy or smooth-skinned potatoes (not Idaho) should be used so that the cake will hold together and keep its shape.
Perhaps one of the most vivid associations we make with hash-browns is old-fashioned road-side diners. As James Beard wrote about hash-browns made by diner short-order cooks, ”the real champions diced them directly in the pan as the potatoes cooked, using a 2-pound baking powder can with holes punched in the bottom. The pan was shaken and tossed, and the potatoes were done to a crusty brown on both sides. Few potatoes ever tasted or looked better to me.” AMERICAN HASH-BROWNS
Four servings
Preparation time: 8 minutes
Cooking time: 16 minutes
2 pounds waxy potatoes, barely cooked
8 tablespoons butter, beef drippings or bacon fat
Salt and pepper to taste
1. On a board, chop the potatoes somewhat coarsely.
2. In a heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, melt half the butter or fat, then add the potatoes, pressing down on them to form into a cake. Salt and pepper to taste. Cook over medium heat until a crust forms on the bottom, about 6 to 8 minutes. From time to time, loosen the bottom with a spatula and shake the pan to keep them from sticking.
3. Invert the potato cake onto a plate, add the rest of the butter to the pan, then return the potato cake to the pan with the uncooked side down.
4. Brown the second side, about 6 minutes, then slide onto a hot platter and serve immediately.
Hash-brown variations:
Hash-browns in cream-When almost ready to turn the potatoes, add 1/2 cup heavy cream and stir the potatoes to break up the bottom crust and allow the cream to seep into the middle. Allow another crust to form before turning and finishing the cooking.
Herbed hash-browns-Toss chopped potatoes with a good 1/4 cup of fresh minced chives and parsley before adding them to the pan.
The Swiss rosti are closest to our American hash-browns because they use partially cooked potatoes.
SWISS ROSTI POTATOES
Four servings
Preparation time: 70 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
2 pounds waxy potatoes
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
3 tablespoons safflower oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1. Wash potatoes well and place them, skins on, in a large pot with enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook 10 minutes, until they are about two-thirds cooked (a knife should go in about an inch before meeting resistance). Drain the potatoes. (This may be done days ahead of time.)
2. Peel the potatoes when cool enough to handle. Let them come to room temperature or wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate an hour. Grate in a food processor or by using the largest, tear-shape side of a manual grater.
3. Melt the butter and oil in a nonstick, slope-sided, 8-or 9-inch saute pan until very hot. Add the potatoes and spread them evenly on the pan, forming a large cake. Add salt and pepper. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, peeking at the bottom occasionally by lifting an edge carefully with a spatula.
4. When the bottom crust is golden brown-but before it burns-take a large plate and place it upside down over the pan. Holding the pan and plate together firmly, turn them over so that the potato cake is on the plate. Carefully slide the potato cake back into the skillet to cook the raw side. Cook another 5 to 8 minutes, until the bottom is nicely golden. (If not using a nonstick pan, add the same amount of butter and oil again.)
5. When done, slide onto a plate and serve immediately.
Rosti variations:
With onions-Use approximately 1/2 cup of chopped onions, sauteed 3 to 5 minutes in butter or oil before adding to the potatoes.
With bacon-Saute until crisp 4 to 6 strips of bacon, cut in small strips crosswise or diced. The fat can be used to cook the potato cake for a more bacony flavor.
Most experts feel that when potatoes are sauteed raw they taste better than when they`ve been precooked. That`s probably why the French prepare them this way. Also, because the potatoes haven`t been precooked, there is enough starch to hold them together better, allowing them to be comfortably flipped. Although flipping may look tricky, you`ll be surprised to find how easy it really is. With a little coaxing, I can quickly get all of my students to do it. They soon discover that once mastered it`s a faster way than using the plate-inversion method.
POTATOES DARPHIN
Four servings
Preparation time: 12 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
2 pounds waxy potatoes
Unsalted butter, about 8 tablespoons
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Fresh nutmeg
1. Peel the potatoes and grate them in a food processor or with the tear drop side of a manual grater. Place in cold water.
2. When all of the potatoes have been grated and soaked, drain them. Cover again with cold water and drain. Dry on paper towels.
3. In an 8- or 9-inch nonstick saute pan with sloping sides, melt enough butter to generously coat the bottom. Add half of the potatoes, sprinkle with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg to taste. Add the rest of the potatoes and press down to form a cake.
4. Shake the pan frequently and add bits of butter around the edges when needed to keep from sticking. Turn the heat to medium and cook from 12 to 15 minutes, getting as brown a crust as you can without burning.
5. Invert the potato cake either by flipping the pan or by using a plate. Cook the other side until golden brown.
6. Slide onto paper towels and pat off any remaining grease. Cut into wedges and serve.
Variations:
With cheese-Add about 1/2 cup grated Gruyere or Parmesan cheese to the middle of the cake along with the seasoning, being careful not to let it touch the sides or it might stick.
This delicious specialty is easily made and quite wonderful with rosti potatoes or potatoes darphin. Both dishes can be made in less than 30 minutes if you have precooked the potatoes.
VEAL STRIPS ZURICH STYLE
Four to six servings
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 tablespoons safflower oil
1 1/2 pounds veal scallops
1 tablespoon minced shallots
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon freshly minced parsley
1. Cut the veal scallops into strips 2 inches by 1/4 inch wide.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons butter and 3 tablespoons oil in a large saute pan, about 10 inches in diameter. When very hot, add half the veal and ”stir-fry” 2 minutes, tossing the meat continuously. Transfer to a collander or strainer set over a bowl to catch the juices.
3. Add the same amount of butter and oil and cook the remaining veal, draining it in the same way.
4. Put the remaining butter in the pan and cook the shallots over low heat about 2 minutes, until they are soft and translucent. Add the wine and bring to a boil, scraping to dissolve any residue in the pan. Add the cream and the drained veal juices. Boil gently about 8 minutes or until the sauce has reduced by half. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed. (Recipe may be made ahead up to this point.)
5. Return the veal to the pan and toss it in the sauce to coat; reduce heat to a simmer and cook 2 minutes to heat through.
6. Put in a serving dish and sprinkle with parsley.
