Eurasia-a fun, high-energy restaurant-is the latest Chicago venture to mix the cuisines and cooking techniques of Europe and the Orient.
Restaurants such as Jackie`s, Jimmy`s Place and Yoshi`s have successfully blended these cuisines for years. But Eurasia seems to have a mission: to go a step farther and create a new cuisine. Open almost six weeks, it`s succeeding better at setting the scene than in developing a clearly defined cuisine.
Nevertheless, Eurasia offers some new experiences and a good time. Diners are greeted by friendly staff members who never seem to stop smiling and rushing about. Dressed in navy blue kimonos and drawstring pants, they also sport bright-red, high-top gym shoes-an amusing touch. If the wait for a table is long (reservations are accepted only for five or more at dinner), you won`t be bored if you pull up a seat in the bar area, order an appetizer and take in the scene.
House drinks with names such as ”golden typhoon,” ”dragon rouge” and
”Shanghai sour” arrive in attractive, square-shaped glasses with a piece of pineapple (but no paper umbrellas, thank you). Appetizers are served on ceramic plates-some black and simple, some with a bolt of design.
What you will see is an appealing restaurant. Eurasia, Levy Restaurants`
latest venture, exhibits the attention to detail the company has made its hallmark.
The Oriental-inspired decor ranges from tall, red bar stools clustered around granite-topped tables to artwork and artifacts. Brightly painted bamboo sticks and Naguchi rice paper lamps are nestled among black lacquer dining tables and chairs. Ceramic chopstick holders, miniature soy sauce bottles and small dishes filled with salt are among the unusual table appointments.
Meanwhile, the hustle and bustle of the servers, the aromas emanating from the kitchen and all the smiling faces should put you in a good mood. And, to top off the introduction, the menu reads like the dust jacket of a good novel-with just enough descriptions to tempt.
However, what emerges from the open kitchen is a cuisine that seems primarily Oriental, yet leaves several unanswered questions. Why create new versions of Peking duck and tandoori chicken? Aren`t the classics wonderful in and of themselves? Why make pot stickers with spinach dough and lamb filling rather than the traditional plain dough and pork?
The answers, at this stage of the restaurant`s development, are not obvious. Despite tempting descriptions, some of the food seems out of sync. Absent at Eurasia is the perfect melding of separate elements found in classic dishes. The chef`s intention is not clear when he pairs foie gras with grilled pineapple. Is this done to create a new taste experience or just for shock value?
On the bright side are the dozen or so dishes that do exhibit harmony of concept, taste and texture. Spicy grilled ribs in black bean sauce, wok-charred tuna and sauteed shrimp with toasted pasta are novel creations that work.
Stir-fried calamari with roasted red pepper and pinenut butter with a sprinkling of toasted nori (seaweed) succeeds, too. Offered as a main course at lunch and an appetizer at dinner, the tender, creamy-white squid are excellent.
An equally delicious shellfish entree is a lunch entree of deep-fried curried oysters with a salad of shredded Napa cabbage. The spicy, crunchy cabbage is an excellent foil to the crispy oysters, which are cooked to perfection.
Another winner is the wok-charred fresh tuna paired with a mango-tomato salsa. The medium-rare tuna is pristinely fresh and perfectly seasoned. Accompanying the fish is a superb pile of salted tiny French green beans in a light batter and deep fried.
Charred peppered steak and sesame grilled lamb chops are carefully cooked and seasoned but a bit more predictable than the fish entrees. A bonus with the steak is a mound of shaved, deep-fried green onions. They are so good they will rival any of the best fried onion loaves served around town.
As for the classics, if it`s well prepared, Peking duck should have moist, flavorful meat with skin as crisp and brittle as glass. It is traditionally served with rather plain pancakes and musty, rich plum sauce. At Eurasia, the duck meat is flavorful enough with just a hint of five-spice powder, but the skin is limp and greasy and the crispy onion crepes too brittle to roll up effectively. Eurasia`s two condiments, apricot-plum chutney and cherry-ginger chutney, are good but do not have the same binding effect as the classic plum sauce.
Eurasia`s tandoori chicken suffers by comparison, too. The bright red chicken is nicely seasoned but the skin is soft. Grilled leeks are a flavorful accompaniment but wrapping them with the chicken in grilled flat bread (nan)
and dipping the whole thing in sesame mayonnaise, as the waiter instructed, turns this dish into a messy, greasy matter.
Other dishes that do not fare well are the tuna tartare and the oversized wontons. The tartare is too mushy, too sweet and contains so much sesame oil that the fish flavor is overpowered. The dough for the golden-fried duck wontons is tough and the sauce is bland.
Innovative and memorable, desserts are winners at Eurasia. A favorite is the unusual Malaysian ice kacange-a mound of shaved ice topped with three flavors of fresh fruit puree and chopped fresh fruit. It`s the ultimate adult snow cone minus the sugary syrup.
The Wall of China is also good, though considerably more filling. Several waferlike cookies are arranged on a plate to resemble a wall and the center is filled with a white chocolate mousse with chunks of white chocolate. The whole dish is sprinkled with a drizzle of melted dark chocolate to provide an artistic, Oriental effect.
The wine list includes a moderately priced assortment, with an emphasis on whites, and eight Oriental beers. Iced tea lovers will enjoy the varieties such as mango and black currant served here.
One of the most distinctive features of Eurasia is the manner of food presentation. Each dish is brought to the table as it is cooked and presented family style on a platter. Diners help themselves from the platter using chopsticks or flatware provided in wire baskets. Most of the entree portions are large and divide nicely for four. Because the menu is so unusual and it`s easy to run up the bill, you may be tempted to over-order-waiters are of great help in this regard and will offer advice.
Eurasia is worth a visit and not just for the fun and energetic atmosphere. Some of the food truly does cross the boundaries into an new cuisine that should add to Chicago dining excitement.
EURASIA
(STAR)(STAR)
European-Oriental. 200 E. Chestnut St., 387-2742. Hours: 11:30 a.m.- 11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.- midnight Fri.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Appetizers $5.95-$12.95, entrees $13.95-$24.95, desserts $3.50-$5.95; dinner for two of appetizer, salad, entree, dessert, tax and tip:
$68-$118. Credit cards: American Express, Carte Blanche, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa, Discover. Reservations: Accepted for lunch and parties of five or more for dinner. Other: Valet parking, handicap accessible.
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The rating reflects the reviewer`s opinion of the food in relation to price compared with similar restaurants in the Chicago area. Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits; more visits are made when necessary. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Tribune.
