A sense of satisfaction fills you as you sit in the warm noonday sun at a small cafe table in a half-filled plaza in Granada. Flower stalls operated by grandmotherly Spanish women ring the tree-lined square and waiters from several nearby restaurants serve patrons beverages and sandwiches on crusty bread. You feel as if you`ve pulled a fast one by getting away from the tourists hustling through the Alhambra, perhaps Spain`s grandest sight, on a mild October day.
The tourist season is waning, and the people you encounter mainly are Spaniards or other Europeans. The scene was oft-repeated during a driving trip through Spain almost a year ago.
Several years before, the same feeling was apparent in Scotland in late autumn. In Edinburgh, you often found yourself with locals or British visitors whether you toured Edinburgh Castle or stopped in a tea room for a late afternoon repast of a black currant tart and tea. At a stay in a small-town B& B run by a school teacher, breakfast companions were an elderly English couple on holiday. On the Isle of Mull, off the Scottish Highlands, there was time to linger and chat with an artist at a farmyard art gallery on a bone-chilling rainy morning.
Even trudging through a rare Paris snow in February doesn`t seem put-offish, considering you virtually have the city`s attractions to yourself. When you nudge your way into a crowded bistro on the Left Bank and get a table, you are flanked by Parisians. If you wander into the Musee de l`Orangerie to see Claude Monet`s enormous panels of water lilies, you feel almost alone in his gardens.
Other off-season trips have included Greece in November, where the weather ranged from a cold rain in Athens to a warm sunset at Cape Sounion, and London in December, where theater, museums and browsing took precedence over the weather, which was sometimes sunny and at other times typically dank and dreary.
From now through April-the off-season-is the time to savor the European`s Europe. The arts seasons are in full swing, and the museums don`t have the summer crowds. It`s possible to get reservations in the fine restaurants, but it pays to reserve as far in advance as possible. Or else be satisfied to rub shoulders with residents in lesser establishments. The off-season adds up to the best time for Americans to immerse themselves and see things as the locals enjoy seeing them.
Last year, for instance, 41 percent of the Americans who traveled to Europe went from October through April, according to the European Travel Commission, a promotion umbrella for 23 countries.
Many travelers choose the off-season because prices for air fares and hotels tend to be lower and the arts are in high season; others simply like to avoid the summer crowds. A lot of winter travelers head for the ski areas in Austria, France, Germany, northern Italy and Switzerland to take advantage of tour packages.
Many travelers still like to shop, although bargains diminish with a weak dollar. Virtually all the countries, however, have procedures for retrieving the ever-present value-added taxes. Consult the tourist offices as well as shopkeepers on how to get your add-on tax money back, which varies from country to country.
No matter where you choose to go from now until spring, you`ll have a variety of activities from which to choose.
AUSTRIA
Vienna-bound travelers can get their fill of music as well as the traditional coffee topped with whipped cream and calorie-filled sweets. In November and December, for instance, Vienna will remember Schubert and Mozart with festivals Nov. 4-19 and Nov. 23-Dec. 21. Vienna also has its Imperial Ball on Dec. 31 to usher in the New Year. On Jan. 15-16, skiers will flock to the Hahnenkamm World Cup downhill and slalom ski races at Kitzbuehel. During November and until Christmas, most Austrian cities and resorts offer off-peak hotel rates, up to 30 percent off the regular season. For shoppers, the best buys are handcrafted ornaments and wooden toys found at Christmas markets in Vienna, Salzburg and Innsbruck.
For more information, contact the Austrian National Tourist Office, 500 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611; 312-644-5556.
BELGIUM
Among the top upcoming events in Brussels are the International Equestrian Show Nov. 11-13 at the Heysel Exhibition Center and the Christmas market Dec. 9-11 on the Grand Sablon, with Belgian and foreign products on display, as well as jugglers, musicians, painters, magicians and artisans. A Christmas Carillon concert will be held Dec. 24 in Bruge. The colorful Lenten Gilles Carnival, celebrated for more than 430 years in Binche, will be held on Feb. 7 and attract thousands of visitors.
For information about hotel bargains and other attractions, contact the Belgium Tourist Office, 745 5th Ave., New York, N.Y. 10151; 212-758-8130.
BRITAIN
With London theater as bait, Britain doesn`t really need festivals during the autumn and winter. Among the sought-after tickets are ”Sugar Babies,” a new production of ”Taming of the Shrew,” a British premier of ”Un Re in Ascolto” in the Royal Opera and ”Walk in the Woods” with Sir Alec Guinness. ”Phantom of the Opera” also continues to be a tough ticket to get. During the weeks before Christmas season, London`s shopping streets are decorated, as is a big tree in Trafalgar Square. It`s generally a good time to hit the theaters, the museums and the new gallery exhibits. For the ”shop till you drop” set, London`s post-Christmas sales are famous. London Transport offers three-, four- and seven-day visitors` travel cards to ease getting around.
Details on off-season Britain, including Scotland, are available from the British Tourist Authority, Suite 3320, 875 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611; 312-787-0490.
CYPRUS
The off-season for Cyprus means mild weather, warm and sunny, unlike that in most of Europe. Water sports such as windsurfing, sailing and snorkeling remain in season. Among the festivals: Carnival from late January to early February with costumed parades before Lent and an international ski competition March 13-14 on 6,800-foot Mt. Olympus, with three ski trails. Most hotels offer up to 35 percent off high-season rates. Food prices are inexpensive the year round. A typical meal at a taverna-which includes meze
(25 small plates of specialties such as charcoaled lamb, local cheeses, cucumbers and yogurt, fish and lots of little salads) and fruits in season, and a bottle of local wine-costs about $14 for two.
For more information, contact the Cyprus Tourism Organization, 13 E. 40th St., New York, N.Y. 10016; 212-213-9100.
DENMARK
Copenhagen is especially attractive to music-lovers from now until May, when the Royal Danish Opera, Royal Danish Ballet and Zealand Symphony perform. Tickets are relatively inexpensive because the arts in Denmark are subsidized by the state. ”City life in cozy Copenhagen is particularly appealing in the off-season,” the Danes like to say. Copenhagen`s Stroeget (pedestrian shopping street) is particularly beautiful at Christmas. Shoppers are advised to buy seconds in porcelain and crystal at Bing & Grondhal and Royal Copenhagen. Hotel bargains, however, will be hard to come by as rates at international hotels remain much the same all year long. Discounts may be available at smaller hotels.
For additional information, contact the Danish Tourist Board, 655 3d Ave., New York, N.Y. 10017; 212-949-2333.
FINLAND
By hastening your plans, you could arrive in Helsinki for the Oct. 3-7 Baltic Herring Market. But daily you can wander through the outdoor market on the city`s harbor. Helsinki, and the rest of Finland, are expensive but offer a lot of surprises. During the winter the major events are ski-related-the 45- mile Finlandia Ski Race March 5 in Hameenlinna-Laht and the World Ski Championships Feb. 17-26 in Lahti. In December, Helsinki holds its Christmas and Charity Market in Esplanadi Park, where handicrafts are sold for charity. Real shoppers, however, head for Stockmann`s Department Store or boutiques to buy Iittala glass, Arabia ceramics, Marimekko textiles and other designer items.
For more information, contact the Finnish Tourist Board, 655 3d Ave., New York, N.Y. 10017; 212-949-2333.
FRANCE
France will be celebrating its French Revolution Bicentennial next year. Celebrations will take place in Paris and Versailles and many other cities throughout the country, with the opening ceremony taking place Jan. 1 in Paris` Place de la Concorde. Major cultural events and festivals are scheduled throughout the country. Meanwhile, this autumn and winter, life goes on as it usually does in Paris, one of the most romantic cities in the world any time of year. Visitors have a choice of concerts, operas, superb museums or can just hang out at cafes. Paris is meant for walking. Comfortable shoes and healthy appetites are musts. So is money.
For details, contact the French Government Tourist Office, 645 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611; 312-337-6301.
GERMANY
In autumn, Oktoberfest and Munich go hand-in-hand. The world`s best-known beer blast pours on until Oct. 2, accompanied with Bavarian sausages, song and brass bands. Germany-bound jazz buffs might head for Berlin Nov. 3-6 for an international jazz festival. From the end of November until Dec. 24, there are Christmas markets in the main public squares of Hamburg, Luebeck, Munich, Frankfurt, Nurnberg and Berlin. Next year, Bonn and Hamburg will mark year-long celebrations with concerts, festivals and special exhibitions. Carnival, or Fasching, will be celebrated with parades and balls Feb. 6-7 in Cologne, Duesseldorf, Mainz and Munich. Shoppers should look for Loden coats, cuckoo clocks and Hummel figurines.
For additional information, contact the German National Tourist Office, 747 3d Ave., New York, N.Y. 10017; 212-308-3300.
GREECE
The Greeks like to say their country will make you feel like a millionaire. Everything is relative. For the off-season traveler, Greece is a very good buy compared with most of Western Europe-and with home, for that matter. U.S. State Department per-diem figures show daily costs for hotels, meals and services in Paris to be $180; London, $172; Rome, $142 and Madrid, $130. Athens comes in at $84. A dinner for two at a taverna rarely costs more than $20, including wine. Though Greece has more than its share of celebrations, including a festive Christmas and New Year`s, the country`s allure remains its antiquities and whitewashed islands.
For details on attractions, accommodations and events, contact the Greek National Tourist Organization, 168 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60601;
312-782-1084.
ICELAND
Since Icelandair will suspend its service between Chicago and Luxembourg via Iceland on Oct. 30, the island nation will see fewer visitors from the Midwest. The starkly beautiful island with rolling farmland, fishing villages, fjords, hot springs and lava fields isn`t most people`s idea of an off-season destination. One lure, however, is Icelandair`s two- and three-night shopping trips that will depart Chicago on Wednesdays and Sundays from Oct. 2-26. All- inclusive prices start at $409 for two nights, $509 for three. Buys include woolens, silver and pewter jewelry in Viking styles and Icelandic lava ware. In addition to Christmas and New Year`s, holidays include Thorrhablot, a month-long food festival in February; Solar Coffee Day in early February, a celebration in northern Iceland saluting the return of the sun after weeks of its disappearance below the mountain peaks, and the First Day of Summer, celebrated on April 20.
For details, contact the Iceland Tourist Board, 655 3d Ave., New York, N.Y. 10017; 212-949-2333.
IRELAND
In Dublin, the city`s Millenium Celebration continues until year`s end. And for die-hard American and novice Irish football fans, Dublin will host a first-the Boston College-Army game Nov. 19. To lure more off-season visitors, Ireland is pushing a five-day, four-night all-inclusive shopping-spree tour that starts and ends in Shannon. The bus tours, which begin Oct. 26 and run until April 27, start at $572 a person, based on double occupancy, and include round-trip transportation on Aer Lingus from New York.
For further information, contact the Irish Tourist Board, 757 3d Ave., New York, N.Y. 10017; 212-418-0800.
ITALY
Carnival in Venice ranks as the country`s most spectacular off-season event, running from Jan. 29 to Feb. 7. Activities include plays, musical entertainment in theaters, masked balls, mimes, fireworks and street activities. The opera season in Milan`s La Scala opens Dec. 7 with opera and ballet performances continuing through June. Christmas, of course, is festive throughout the country. Shopping is tempting, but keep an eye on exchange rates to make certain you`re getting a decent buy compared with stateside prices. Some hotel chains offer slight discounts in the off-season. Check with a travel agent.
For more information, contact the Italian Government Travel Office, 500 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611; 312-644-0990.
LUXEMBOURG
Since Icelandair stopped its service from Chicago to Luxembourg, the country might find itself bypassed by travelers from this area. But that doesn`t halt traditional activities that exist mainly for the residents. Fall fairs, Christmas and New Year`s celebrations, carnivals and markets don`t miss a beat. A day of unlimited train travel within the country costs only $6, and most hotels lower their rates in the off season, some in the countryside as much as 25 percent.
For more information, contact the Luxembourg National Tourist Office, 801 2d Ave., New York, N.Y. 10017; 212-370-9850.
MALTA
The tiny island in the Mediterranean, about 50 miles from Sicily, has been a port since ancient times and still has medieval vestiges. Among its festivals: Carnival Days Feb. 3-7 in Valleta and Gozo; Holy Week, March 23-26, at all churches on the island; and drama, ballet and concerts from October to May.
For more information, contact the Consulate of Malta, 249 E. 35th St., New York, N.Y. 10016; 212-725-2345.
MONACO
There`s always an air of money and color around events in Monte Carlo, the principality`s capital. The 57th Monte Carlo Auto Rally is Jan. 14-20, and the 14th Monte Carlo International Circus Festival is Feb. 2-6 in Fontvieille Esplanade. From March 24-April 19, there`s the Monte Carlo Spring Arts Festival. The gaming tables and the splendid scenery are available all the time. So are the special food treats such as barbagiuan, a fried pocket dough with a rich filling of zucchini, eggs, cheese and rice. Special packages will be available later this autumn.
For information, contact the Monaco Government Tourist & Convention Bureau, 845 3d Ave., New York, N.Y. 10022; 212-759-5227.
NETHERLANDS
Amsterdam, laced with canals lined with fine Dutch architecture and dotted with cozy wine bars and grand museums, is one of the perfect off-season cities. Most of its attractions are weatherproof. Among the special events in Holland are the Fine Art & Antique Fair Oct. 13-27 in Delft; ”Rembrandt and the 19th Century English Graphic Artists” Nov. 1-Jan. 15 in the Rembrandt House in Amsterdam; and ”Four Outsiders,” an exhibition of Edvard Munch, James Ensor, Ferdinand Hodler and Kerman Kruyder Dec. 1-Jan. 31 in the Boymans Van Beuningen Museum in Rotterdam. Visitors can get special admissions and discounts with the Holland Leisure Card.
For additional information, contact the Netherlands Board of Tourism, Suite 326, 225 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60601; 312-819-0300.
NORWAY
Off-season Norway is for the hearty-speed-skaters, ski-jumpers and cross- country skiers and nightowls. There are tours of Lapland, snowmobile rallies and reindeer races. January will see the inauguration of a new contemporary art gallery in January, the Kristiansund Opera Festival Feb. 3-10 in Kristiansund and the Voss Jazz Festival March 17-19 in Voss. Bargains include weekend hotel rates, often 50 percent off.
For details, contact the Norwegian Tourist Board, 655 3d Ave., New York, N.Y. 10017; 212-949-2333.
PORTUGAL
Another of Europe`s bargain countries, Portugal fills its off-season calendar with colorful events. Leading the list are the Carnival celebrations all over the country Feb. 4-8. In the Algarve, the country`s southern province, Carnival coincides with the Almond Blossom Festival. Celebrations are marked by parades, folk dances and satirical costumes. The S. Martinho Fair Nov. 9-13 draws horse-fanciers from all over the world to Golega, 72 miles north of Lisbon, to select fine Portuguese horses as well as to see bullfights, fireworks and folk dancing.
For details of these and other activities, contact the Portuguese National Tourist Office, 548 5th Ave., New York, N.Y. 10036; 212-354-4403.
SPAIN
While the Spaniards have their share of fairs and festivals, the country is a celebration any time of year. Madrid especially is festive, with late-evening dining, Spanish music and promenading. So are other cities, but to a lesser degree. It`s the Spaniard`s social nature that makes visitors feel part of the local scene. Spain remains a relatively good buy; careful women shoppers can do especially well with shoes and boots.
For other tips, contact the National Tourist Office of Spain, 845 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611; 312-642-1992.
SWEDEN
Stockholm, combined with visits to Copenhagen and Oslo, can make an unusual off-season getaway, despite the short days combined with a short autumn and long winter. Stockholm offers a lot of glittery activities, the epitome being the Nobel Prize Ceremonies on Dec. 10, followed by St. Lucia Day throughout the country Dec. 13.
Contact the Swedish Tourist Board, 655 3d Ave., New York, N.Y. 10017;
212-949-2333.
SWITZERLAND
To many Americans, off-season Switzerland translates to in-season skiing, apres ski, sleigh rides, cozy restaurants, cheese fondue and splendid Alpine scenery. Other diversions include horse races on frozen Lake St. Moritz Feb. 7, 14 and 21; the Onion Market in Berne Nov. 28; and the International Motor Show in Geneva March 2-12. Check with a travel agent for ski packages.
For more information, contact the Swiss National Tourist Office, 608 5th Ave., New York, N.Y. 10020; 212-757-5944.
TURKEY
Because of its stunning sights in Istanbul and elsewhere in the country, and because of its reasonable prices, Turkey will enjoy a place in the sun. Visitors can enjoy good weather along the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts, with temperatures in the 55 degrees-60 degrees range. Most American visitors, however, go to Istanbul. Most hotels discount 25 percent in the off-season, reducing rates to $25 to $75 for a room. Luxury hotels charge more, with the Sheraton and Hilton going for about $120. Dinner for two with wine at a typical restaurant will cost about $15.
For more information, contact the Turkish Culture & Information Office, 821 United Nations Plaza, New York, N.Y. 10017; 212-687-2194.
YUGOSLAVIA
For the off-season bargain hunter, Yugoslavia might be one of the best bets, along with Turkey. With such fascinating cities as Dubrovnik, on the Adriatic; and Sarajevo, which hosted the 1984 Winter Olymics, Yugoslavia offers visitors a mixed view of Eastern and Western Europe. Yugoslavia`s calendar is full of events, from a Mimosa Festival in Herceg Novi to world cup Alpine skiing at Kranjska Gora. Visitors will find good food and tons of reasonably priced handicrafts. Rates along the Adriatic also are low in the off-season.
For more information, contact the Yugoslav National Tourist Office, 630 5th Ave., New York, N.Y. 10111; 212-757-2801.
