Arun`s, probably one of the best spots for Thai food around, has made a distinct culinary commitment to the Portage Park/Irving Park neighborhoods. The restaurant, a transplant from a smaller storefront, made its debut in May in its new, spacious quarters at 4156 N. Kedzie Ave. And if history is any measure, diners have been experiencing a treat.
Owner/chef Arun Sampanthavivat, who wisely chose his first name as the handle for his restaurant, keeps careful vigil over the front of the house and the kitchen. A native of Thailand, Arun didn`t set out to be a restaurateur. After earning a degree in international affairs in Tokyo, he came to the U.S. 10 years ago to continue his studies at the University of Chicago.
”I had not planned to have a restaurant,” he says. ”I was going to be a professional in the scholastic field. A friend of mine was thinking of opening a restaurant and asked me for advice.”
The friend got cold feet at the last minute, and Arun was left with a decision. Should he go ahead with the planned restaurant, which was well beyond the pipe dream stage? Or should he abandon the idea? Luckily for the dining public, Arun decided to open the restaurant anyway.
”I wanted to prove to him (the friend) that it could be done,” Arun says. ”If you do it intellectually you can do it right . . . I never considered that I could fail.”
Much of Arun`s cuisine demonstrates his scholarly background. Many traditional Thai specialties pepper the menu, and Arun enjoys helping diners construct their meals, explaining the dishes` origins as the meal progresses. Arun also revels in the creativity the restaurant business affords him. Many of the dishes are his creation. Traditional Thai ingredients and preparation techniques merge with nouvelle touches or American influences.
Though many dishes are spicy, few are as fiery hot as those served at many local Thai restaurants. Arun`s cuisine depends less on blistering seasonings and more on complex mixes of herbs and spices that result in subtle flavors. Whether it`s traditional or innovative, the recipe becomes a work of art by the time it reaches the plate.
”I love the arts,” Arun says. ”I paint pictures, you know. I treat food like art. This is a form of expression that is art.”
Business at Arun`s progressed gradually after its 1985 opening at 3434 W. Irving Park Rd. Soon the restaurant won a growing following of loyalists who raved about the food as well as the civilized, if somewhat cramped, interior. ”A lady and her daughter from Highland Park come in once a week without fail,” Arun says. ”They used to go to France twice a year for good food. Now they say they`re happy they can come here.”
The new Arun`s has 60 to 70 seats, roughly double the size of the original. The restaurant also has an art gallery. On one wall are paintings by Arun`s brother (who still lives in Thailand) that depict the life story of Buddha. Arun sketched what he wanted and sent the drawings to his brother, who sent back the finished paintings.
”I want to help people learn about Thai culture,” Arun says.
Diners will find an atmosphere similar to the first Arun`s, but with a finer and more detailed decor. For the original restaurant Arun did much of the construction work himself. For this restaurant he designed the space but hired craftsmen to do the work.
”This restaurant is more meticulous, and 100 percent nicer,” he says.
”I used professionals who have better equipment, the right tools and know-how. With this restaurant I got closer to the restaurant that I dream of.
”To me the location was not the priority. It`s relevant, but location is not the main problem. This location offered many advantages. I could afford it. I did not like the idea of downtown so much because too many people would walk in, and I could not control the quality. Still, we`re not too far from downtown. We`re accessible to the freeway. And we can do a better job here because we can have better control.”
At Arun`s, customers are finding some of the finest Thai creations this side of the Pacific. They range from surprisingly lightly fried shrimp rolls and steamed rice dumplings to Thai-style crepes, fried red snapper topped with a tamarind sauce or well-rounded curries and aromatic pastas. Although Arun still ”designs all of the dishes,” as he puts it, he doesn`t cook as much as he used to.
Organizational theory was the emphasis of Arun`s degree, and he says it has come in handy at the restaurant: ”We have a great team here. I still have to supervise, but we`re like a little family. . . . We`ve learned a lot.”
ARUN`S. 4156 N. Kedzie Ave., 539-1909. Hours: 5-10 p.m., Tues.-Sun.;
closed Mon. Credit cards: American Express (A), Carte Blanche (CB), Diner`s Club (DC), MasterCard (M), Visa (V). Reservations: Will be accepted.
Of course, the area hosts a number of other quality restaurants well worth sampling. Included are:
JIMMY`S PLACE, 3420 N. Elston Ave., 539-2999. Consistent French cuisine with creative flair, flawlessly served in a pleasant atmosphere filled with opera memorabilia and the strains of operatic works, makes this a favorite with opera buffs and one of the best restaurants in the city. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; closed Sunday. Credit cards: CB, DC, M, V. Reservations: Necessary. Other: Complimentary parking; accessible to handicapped.
RIO`S CASA IBERIA, 4611 N. Kedzie Ave., 588-7800. Though this restaurant has had its ups and downs, it deserves attention because it`s one of the few places in town that serves Brazilian and Portugese specialties. The environment is white-cloth with fresh flowers at each table and nightly entertainment, and the food can be excellent. Hours: 5 p.m.-1:30 a.m. Tues.;
5-11:30 p.m. Wed. and Fri.; 5-11 Thurs.; 5 p.m.-midnight Sat.; 4-10 p.m. Sun.; closed Mon. Credit cards: A, CB, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.
THAI AREE HOUSE, 4323 W. Addison St., 725-6751. Though not as polished or creative as Arun`s, Thai Aree House produces many excellent Thai dishes with reasonable prices and is well worth the visit. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; 4-9 p.m. Sun. Credit cards: A, CB, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.
