When the green-and-glass structure opened four years ago, it was heralded as ”the transportation center” because it would have airline ticket offices, a subway station, parking, car rentals and travel-related businesses.
It never quite took off. Now the building`s just called ”203 N. LaSalle.”
That sort of backtracking aptly describes Joeys Saloon Grill.
With the blessing of its owner, Gene Sage, a three-decade legend on Chicago`s dining scene, how could Joeys go wrong? How indeed.
Atmosphere, service and food in the 80-seat, clubby eatery is best described as uneven.
The interior is not contextual. An old-fashioned bar sweeps toward the ceiling but ends far short of the exposed pipes and dropped tiles. It somewhat reminds you of a movie set, where cameramen are told not to go too high on the bar shot. That showbiz touch, however, was intentional in decorating walls with pictures of famous Joes, such as Cocker, Namath and Cotten.
Much to its credit, the restaurant`s sound level is excellent, especially when one considers that the elevated train can be seen, but barely heard, roaring by.
As for the wait staff, they can be a pal or someone who can`t tell you the size variation between a half ($4.95) or whole submarine sandwich ($7.95). The menu features popular lunch items, such as sandwiches from the carvery. Whole roast beef, corned beef or pastrami sandwiches are $7.95. Plentiful halves are $4.95. All sandwiches come with a basket of crisp french fries or fresh fruit cup.
There are several salads and a couple of pasta dishes for those looking for the light side. There`s also a good cup of chili ($2.50).
Unfortunately, much of the fare tends to be on the dry side. An otherwise satisfying grilled chicken on black bread with caramelized onions and brie
($6.95) suffered because the poultry was dry.
Neither do desserts entirely escape that arid quality. While the fudge brownie ($2.95) was moist even before being topped with vanilla ice, the bread pudding ($2.95) was dry, except for where it was coated with whiskey sauce.
JOEYS SALOON GRILL
203 N. LaSalle St. Phone: 609-2350. Hours: 11 a.
