There are many cities with views, but few can compare with the one from Quito, framed by the Andes and blanketed by clouds like a stretched-out quilt. Praised for its rich tapestry of church architecture and decorative arts, Quito ranks among the United Nation`s designated world cultural-heritage sites. It also boasts superb weather; 15 miles south of the equator, it has a mild, springlike climate all year. And for the budget-conscious traveler, it offers still another bonus-unbelievable bargains. An elegant buffet luncheon, including five hot dishes, runs $3.50 at the prestigious Hotel Colon, and modern, comfortable accommodations start at $13 for a double room.
Once the northern capital of the Inca empire, modern Quito was founded by Spanish conquistadors in 1534. With a population of 1.3 million, the city is nestled high in the heart of the Andes, a blend of Spanish colonial dwellings, flower-filled patios, winding cobblestone streets, and 20th-Century buildings and traffic.
Among Quito`s 37 churches are extravaganzas of lavish gold lacework. La Compania, noted for its richly carved facade, boasts an interior of dazzling golden altars, gilded columns and balconies. Gold also glitters in the San Francisco Church, one of the first great religious buildings on the continent. A hero`s tomb
Marshal Sucre, who led Ecuador`s fight for independence, is entombed in a cathedral noted for its sculptures and paintings produced by the Escuela Quitena, the school of native artists trained by church friars. There are also prominent works of Caspicara, a celebrated Indian artist of the 17th Century. Quito`s cultural legacy is also showcased in numerous museums. One unlikely spot, the Banco Central, houses a noteworthy archeological museum with ceramics dating back 5,000 years. In its gallery of gold artifacts are two beautiful wedding bands about which a guide volunteered: ”They are not old. Only from the early 1700s.”
And Quito`s artistic heritage lives on. Compelling contemporary artists include Guayasamin, a leading and often controversial figure who hosted Fidel Castro during Ecuador`s last presidential inauguration. Immense exhibition halls at the Taller de Guayasamin mount his one-man show, while pre-Colombian artifacts and church art fill other sections.
Those who simply want to browse can seek out the Amazonas Avenida, which culminates in a large park. Along the half-mile thoroughfare, visitors can dine at outdoor cafes, have their shoes shined and listen to itinerant musicians-all at the same time.
At Manolo`s, a meeting place for aging matadors (where the grilled chicken with avocado sandwich is 90 cents), you might run into a character like Anibal Vallejo. The meticulously groomed former torero-who started as an apprentice at age 13 and achieved recognition in the bullfight arenas of South America and Mexico-recently admitted he can`t understand Americans and their habits.
A 73-year-old kid
”Why drink mineral water?” he asked. ”I eat, smoke, drink, and at 73 years, nothing bothers me.”
In addition to conventional shops, vendors spread their merchandise, from shoes to sunglasses to steam irons and Trimline phones, on the sidewalks. Indian women in Panama hats-they were first made in Ecuador during the building of the Panama canal and shipped north to workers-peddle junk jewelry and lottery tickets. And on busy corners, women knit lovely wool sweaters for $11.
Here especially, the duality of modern Quito is apparent: Across the street from a woman dealing in oranges and a man selling live ducks is the local McDonald`s.
Quito is also an ideal central location for other kinds of exploration. Scenic drives lead to numerous towns that host native markets almost every day of the week. Calderon, for example, is known for its colorful bread-dough figures, an art form unique to Ecuador, while San Antonio de Ibarra is famed for wood carvings.
Metropolitan Touring Co. operates a panoramic overnight train-bus excursion to the city of Riobamba, beneath snow-crested Chimborazo, the second-highest mountain in the Andes. The route skirts steep inclines, cuts through narrow tunnels, and crosses the Andes at 11,841 feet before descending to Riobamba, where the Saturday market spreads over nine plazas.
Metropolitan also now offers tours from Quito to the city of Cuenca by autoferro, or bus/train, with a stop to explore the Incan ruins of Ingapirca, a fortress-like construction whose origin remains shrouded in mystery. For the more ambitious, deluxe ships and private yachts go to the Galapagos, where Charles Darwin, observing the sea lions, marine and land iguanas, and Antarctic penguins, drew inspiration for his theory of evolution.
Six hundred miles off the coast, the islands take their name from the Spanish word galapago or tortoise, after the local species, some of which weigh up to 500 pounds.
For the truly adventurous, safaris are available to the El Oriente region of the Upper Amazon Basin.
For more information, contact the Ecuadorian Foundation for the Promotion of Tourism in Miami at 800-553-6673; or call Metropolitan Touring Co., 800-527-2500.
