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Jam sessions are common during summertime.

But these jam sessions are not the recording-studio variety. Rather they are taking place in kitchens, where consumers are orchestrating all kinds of fresh fruits and fruit juices into delicious jam and jelly combinations.

With ever-increasing interest in little- or no-sugar jams and jellies, what follows is a collection of jam-session recipes that utilize sugar substitute or lower amounts of sugar than conventional jams and jellies.

However, consumers should be aware that jams and jellies prepared with reduced sugar or sugar substitutes are not exactly the same as their sugar-laden counterparts, says Kathryn Boor, research assistant in the

cooperative extension service at the University of California at Davis.

The texture will not be quite as firm, and generally such products will not have as much body and shape or be as clear as familiar jams and jellies, Boor says.

Christine Palmer, director of the MCP kitchens, MCP/Borden in Anaheim, Calif., agrees, but notes that jams and jellies made with MCP`s Slim Set fruit pectin and one-third less sugar are nearly identical to conventional sugar-sweetened jams.

For best results when making reduced- or no-sugar jams and jellies, it is imperative to use recipes specifically developed to use sugar substitutes or reduced amounts of sugar, emphasizes Boor.

Consumers should not fiddle around with the proportions or ingredients in recipes unless they want to risk disaster. For example, do not attempt to take a recipe designed to use a small amount of sugar and substitute granulated artificial sweetener for the sugar, and vice versa.

Use the exact type of fruit pectin specified in the recipe, as pectins cannot be used interchangeably, Palmer says.

For making reduced-sugar jams and jellies, rely on specifically formulated products such as Slim Set fruit pectin or Sure-Jell Light, which can be found in supermarkets.

Sure-Jell Light, a high methoxyl pectin product manufactured by General Foods Corp. and available in 1 3/4-ounce packages, uses a third less sugar than the company`s regular fruit pectins (Sure-Jell and Certo).

Artificial sweeteners cannot be used with this product (just as they cannot be used with regular Sure-Jell or Certo), which is designed for the lesser amount of sugar, said Stephen Sillery, senior consumer representative for dessert products for General Foods Corp. in White Plains, N.Y.

The resulting product will have a more pronounced fruit flavor than if regular Sure-Jell and more sugar had been used.

Cooked jams or jellies made with Sure-Jell Light can be processed in a boiling water bath or by the inversion method (instructions are included in the package directions), added Sillery, but freezing these cooked products is not recommended.

For optimum flavor and quality, products made with Sure-Jell Light are best stored in a cool, dry place below 65 degrees and should be used within a year.

No-cook freezer jams also can be prepared with Sure-Jell Light, and such products can be stored in the freezer for 12 months.

With Slim Set, a low methoxyl fruit pectin available in 2-ounce boxes from MCP Foods, it is possible to make light jams and jellies with reduced amounts of sugar or artificial sweeteners.

If you do not want to use an artificial sweetener, you can make a product with as little as 1/2 cup sugar, if desired, Palmer says.

If artificial sweetener is used, it should be added at the end of the cooking time to avoid excessive exposure to heat.

Palmer says she prefers Equal because she likes the flavor, but she suggests using artificial sweetener according to personal taste.

Water-bath processing of no-sugar jams and jellies prepared with Slim Set is not recommended because of the heat sensitivity of artificial sweeteners, Palmer advises.

However, Slim Set low-sugar jams and jellies can be water-bath processed or stored in the refrigerator up to a year, she adds.

”Do not freeze any jams or jellies prepared with Slim Set because the gel will break down and the set will soften,” Palmer says.

Often when making no-sugar jams and jellies, depending on the depth of color of the fruit, it is advisable to add a few drops of food coloring to give the finished product a color boost and the appearance of a full-sugar jam or jelly, Palmer says.

Those having problems with jam and jellymaking, should consider using the free jam and jelly analysis service provided by MCP Foods.

Call 800-854-4615 for a kit that includes a postage-paid container to send in a 2-ounce sample.

Once the sample has been analyzed, the company will write or call with information to help salvage the jam or jelly.

Allow about two weeks for a response.

The company receives more than 2,000 analysis requests a year, most of them related to recipe-altering problems such as adding more fruit than specified in the recipe or doubling a recipe without doubling all of the ingredients or the cooking time, Palmer says.

Meanwhile, here are some recipes for low- and no-sugar jams and jellies. For best results, be sure to use the brand names specified when included. Two of the recipes feature packets of Sweet One, a new diet sweetener containing acesulfame-K (Sunette brand), that recently was introduced in area

supermarkets. It is sodium-free, heat stable and suitable for cooking and baking. It contains no aspartame and no saccharin. Each packet of Sweet One provides the equivalent sweetness of 2 teaspoons sugar and has 4 calories.

And now for a jam and jelly session:

STRAWBERRY-PEACH JAM

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Yield: 4 (8-ounce) jars

1 quart strawberries, firm and ripe

1 pound peaches

1 package (2 ounces) Slim Set fruit pectin for making light jams and jellies with low or no sugar

12-18 packets (1-gram each) granulated sugar substitute or 1 to 2 tablespoons liquid artificial sweetener or 1/2 cup sugar

1. Wash, stem and grind strawberries or crush completely one layer at a time so that berries are reduced to a pulp that measures 2 cups.

2. Wash, peel, pit and finely grind peaches to measure 2 cups. Measure prepared fruit into a 3- to 4-quart kettle.

3. Add pectin to mixture. Stir thoroughly to dissolve and scrape sides of pan to make sure all the pectin dissolves. (This takes a few minutes.) Place mixture in pan over medium-high heat. Heat to boil, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. (If fruit starts to scorch, reduce heat to medium.) Heat to full rolling boil, and boil hard exactly 1 minute.

4. Remove jam from heat and skim foam. Add sweetener and pour into containers. Seal according to instructions on recipe folder in pectin package. PLUM JAM

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Yield: 9 1/2 cups or about 10 1/2-pint jars

7 1/4 cups prepared fruit (about 4 1/2 pounds fully ripe plums)

1/2 cup water

5 1/4 cups sugar

1 box (1 3/4 ounces) Sure-Jell Light fruit pectin

1. Pit (do not peel) plums. Finely chop or grind fruit. Place in saucepan and add water. Heat to boil; cover and simmer 5 minutes. Measure 7 1/4 cups into 6 or 8-quart saucepot.

2. Mix 1/4 cup of sugar with pectin; stir into fruit in saucepot. Place over high heat and stir until mixture comes to a full boil. Immediately add remaining 5 cups sugar and stir. Heat to full bubbling boil and boil hard 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and skim off foam with metal spoon.

3. Ladle quickly into hot sterilized jars, filling to within 1/8-inch of tops. Wipe jar rims and threads. Cover with two-piece lids. Screw bands tightly. Invert jars for 5 minutes, then turn upright. After 1 hour, check seals.

APPLE JELLY

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Yield: About 2 pints

2 envelopes (2 tablespoons) unflavored gelatin

1 quart unsweetened apple juice

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons liquid artificial sweetener

Food coloring (optional)

1. Soften gelatin in apple juice and lemon juice in saucepan. Heat to rolling boil, dissolving gelatin; boil 1 minute. Remove from heat. Stir in sweetener and food coloring. Pour hot into hot jars. Adjust caps. Store in refrigerator up to 3 weeks. Each 1 tablespoon jelly has 8 calories.

SANGRIA JAM

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour

Yield: Three (8-ounce) jars

2 1/2 cups red wine

1 1/2 cups unsweetened grape juice

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon bottled lemon juice

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Sweet `N Low granulated sugar substitute

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon rind

1 pound red apples (such as McIntosh), peeled, cored, thinly sliced

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

1. Mix wine, grape juice, water, sugar, lemon juice, sugar substitute and lemon rind in large saucepan. Heat over high heat to boil. Add apples; reduce heat to medium; cook until apples are very tender, about 30 minutes.

2. Remove apples to blender or food processor with slotted spoon; puree. Return to pot and continue cooking 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, sprinkle gelatin over water in small saucepan to soften. Cook over low heat until gelatin dissolves. Stir into fruit mixture.

4. Funnel mixture into hot sterilized jars, allowing 1/4-inch headspace

(or follow jar manufacturer`s instructions if different). Wipe rims with clean cloth dipped in hot water. Seal according to jar manufacturer`s instructions and process in boiling water bath 10 minutes. Each tablespoon contains 20 calories.