Next weekend won`t be a weekend to overdo. With summer nearly gone, there will be stimulation and challenges enough waiting in the weeks and months ahead. Instead, let`s celebrate the Labor Day weekend with a casual meal for six. It`s well suited to the season and to being served outdoors or in an informal indoor setting.
The eggplant first course is prepared ahead and can be passed on a platter. The stew, adapted from a classic Portuguese recipe, combines a symbol of the seashore (clams) and Midwestern pork. It`s hearty but not heavy, to make a distinction that may justify preparing more than a single recipe. Present it in the cooking pot. Dessert, a sophisticated version of old-fashioned banana cream pie, is a cause for celebration in and of itself. It was created by Stephan Pyles, the noted Texas chef whose Routh Street Cafe and Baby Routh are among the dining high points of Dallas.
As for beverages, let`s not overreach here, either. With this menu, either white or light-red wine may be served. I tried Gallo`s 1988 sauvignon blanc and Bolla`s Valpolicello of the same vintage and was pleased with both. Beer would be a fine companion for the stew, too.
PAN-ROASTED EGGPLANT WITH BASIL
Six servings
2 pounds eggplant, baby or Japanese preferred
Salt
1/2 cup olive oil
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1. Slice the unpeeled eggplants lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Place on a sheet pan and sprinkle lightly with salt. Allow slices to ”sweat” 20 to 30 minutes.
2. Blot eggplant dry with paper towels. Using about 1/4 cup olive oil, brush both sides of slices.
3. Heat large frying pan, preferably cast iron, over high heat. When pan is very hot, place slices in pan in a single layer. Cook about 2 minutes on each side, until eggplant is lightly charred. Transfer slices to a serving platter. Repeat until all are cooked.
4. Arrange eggplant in overlapping slices. Grind fresh pepper over them, then add the basil. Drizzle on 3 to 4 tablespoons of oil. Toss diced tomato with vinegar and scatter over the eggplant. Serve at room temperature.
PORTUGUESE PORK-AND-CLAM STEW
Six servings
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon salt, coarse preferred
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds boneless pork, cut into large cubes
1 1/2 cup dry white wine
2 large bay leaves, broken in half
2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 medium tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 pound chorizo or other spicy sausage, sliced
1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes
18 to 24 little neck clams in the shell, well scrubbed
Salt and pepper to taste
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
1. Combine garlic, coarse salt and paprika in a mortar and mash together. Slowly stir in 1 tablespoon of olive oil to form a paste. Place pork cubes in a glass or stainless-steel bowl and coat with the garlic paste. Add 1 cup wine and bay leaves and stir together. Cover and refrigerate eight hours, or overnight.
2. Drain pork, reserving marinade. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and lard or vegetable oil in a Dutch oven or heavy pot. When oil is almost smoking, add pork cubes without crowding the pan. Brown cubes on all sides, then use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a platter. Repeat until all the pork has been browned.
3. Add onion and garlic; cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes. Lower heat, cover pot and stew onions for 20 minutes. Remove cover and add chopped tomato, tomato paste and reserved marinade. Bring liquid to a simmer, then return pork to the pot. Cover and cook at a simmer for 1 hour. Meanwhile, in a pan of salted water, cook potato cubes until almost tender. Drain. (Recipe may be done ahead to this point. Reheat stew before continuing.)
4. Add sausage and potatoes to the pot and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes, or until pork is very tender. Meanwhile, heat remaining 1/2 cup wine (or water) in a separate pan. When liquid is boiling, add the clams and cover tightly. Cook over moderate heat, shaking the pan often, until the clams are open, 5 to 8 minutes. Discard any that do not open.
5. Pour 1/3 cup of the clam broth into the stew, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Portion the stew into soup plates and garnish with clams and a liberal sprinkling of parsley. Serve at once.
STEPHAN PYLES`
BANANA CREAM MACADAMIA-NUT PIE
Makes one pie
For the pastry cream:
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 large egg
1 cup whipping cream
1/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut in small pieces
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons banana liqueur
For the shell:
1 cup all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons shortening
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 1/2 tablespoons cold water
For the filling:
2/3 cup orange juice, freshly squeezed preferred
4 bananas, medium ripe and still firm
1 cup coarsely chopped macadamia nuts, toasted
For the meringue:
6 large egg whites
1 cup granulated sugar
1. Make the pastry cream: Stir the flour and cornstarch together in a mixing bowl. Add the egg and beat until light. Bring cream and sugar to a boil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Let cool slightly, then stir half the cream into the egg mixture. Return to saucepan and stir over low heat until mixture reaches a boil. Remove from heat and stir in butter, vanilla and banana liqueur. Strain if lumpy. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate several hours or overnight.
2. Make the pie shell: Heat oven to 400 degrees. Spoon the flour into a bowl. Cut in butter and shortening until rice-grain-size nuggets are formed. Dissolve salt in water, then mix water into the flour, a tablespoon at a time. Form dough into a ball. Chill for 10 minutes, then roll out into a circle large enough to line a 9-inch pie plate. Press dough into the pie plate, crimp and trim edges. Line dough with foil and fill with dry beans or pie weights. Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes. Remove foil and continue cooking until crust is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Let cool in the pan on a rack.
3. Make the filling: Pour the orange juice into a shallow bowl. Peel bananas and cut on the diagonal into 1/2-inch slices. Toss in juice. Reserve. 4. Spread a thin coating of pastry cream over the interior of the cooled pie shell. Sprinkle 1/2 cup of macadamia nuts over the cream. Place a layer of closely spaced banana slices over the nuts. Repeat with more pastry cream, the remaining nuts and a final layer of bananas. Cover the bananas with a generous layer of pastry cream. Refrigerate the pie.
5. Prepare meringue: In an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form, then slowly add the sugar. Continue beating until meringue is glossy. Transfer meringue to a pastry bag fitted with a star tube tip. Remove pie from the refrigerator and pipe stars close together over the surface, starting from the center and working out. Pipe a border of rosettes close together around the perimeter.
6. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Bake pie in the middle of the oven until meringue topping is nicely golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Allow to cool before serving. –
