Le Francais hit the headlines this summer when chef/owner Jean Banchet sold the nationally famous French restaurant to Roland and Mary Beth Liccioni, formerly of Carlos` in Highland Park. And we have good news to report.
Le Francais is different with the Liccionis in charge, but no less wonderful. In fact, some of it is better than ever.
Perhaps the first noticeable change is in ”the show.” Banchet had a multitude of dishes, fresh fish and meats displayed on gleaming silver-domed carts dramatically presented for each table. Liccioni has pared it down to a beautiful tray displaying about 12 menu choices, two carts containing meat selections and a dessert tray. Happily, all of the specials are now written down.
The Banchet-trained dining room staff remains the same, ensuring the polished, convivial, unpretentious service that delights regulars and surprises newcomers. At dinner, the stately Doris Banchet has been replaced by Mary Beth Liccioni, who warmly greets customers and visits tables.
The decor in the comfortable dining room has changed little save for a few new pieces of art. The dark polished wood walls, ornate sideboards, brocade banquettes, silver hurricane candleholders and abundance of fresh flowers remain. So does the mixed-and-matched fine china and rather clunky glassware.
Banchet`s kitchen staff is intact. But the tempo of the kitchen no doubt is different under the intense and quiet Liccioni than it was under the more theatrical and temperamental Banchet.
Under Doris and Jean Banchet, Le Francais was a temple of food bearing huge portions resting on rich sauces with hefty price tags. Several much-loved favorites from Banchet remain, such as stuffed Dover sole, the lamb combination plate, crabcakes, and duck consomme under a dome of pastry.
However, much of the menu reflects award-winning Roland`s lighter cooking style with touches of Oriental influence.
Roland, of Corsican and Vietnamese ancestry, trained in France. His sauces tend to be lighter and simpler than Banchet`s. Portions are slightly smaller under Liccioni`s command but still very generous. And he adds personal interpretations of French cuisine, such as a lemon grass sorbet that does more than cleanse the palate-it also tastes fabulous.
A visit last week was nearly flawless-a big improvement over an earlier visit in July that had some ups and downs in food and service. It`s obvious the Liccionis have worked hard to iron out the kinks in this massive operation. Now, waiters comfortably describe and praise Roland`s food as well as the menu choices that remain from Banchet`s reign.
A brilliant example of Roland`s artistic style is a trio of three delicacies with individual sauces on one appetizer plate: a ravioli of black pasta filled with mushrooms and topped with squab breast, a ravioli of scallop, and sauteed langoustine, with a richer-than-lobster taste
complemented by the refreshing crunch of very finely julienned leek.
Another well-crafted combination is a lobster and snapper ragout with a light saffron sauce in a mound of black pasta. Also appealing is the farm plate of moist, wild-tasting but tender roasted squab, rare duck breast and stuffed pheasant with a hearty black olive sauce.
Less spectacular were two dishes from an earlier visit: a complicated plate of assorted cold fish pates, and a thick and bland artichoke and asparagus soup.
On the other hand, two other dishes from a later visit-a rich, deeply flavored duck consomme with duck raviolis served under a delicate pastry crust, and three succulent lamb cuts (saddle, roast rack and loin surrounded by a light spinach mousse and encased in a thin layer of buttery pastry)-are outstanding. The sauce under the lamb is reduced to a very concentrated meat flavor.
Over a decade ago, Banchet was credited with bringing fresh Dover sole to Chicago. The sole at Le Francais is still among the best anywhere; when paired with a salmon tournedo and a lobster sauce, it is spectacular. So is the grilled brill, a very mild, sweet white fish, paired with buttery, fresh chanterelles.
Room must be saved for dessert made by Mary Beth, arguably the city`s best pastry chef. Mary Beth apprenticed at Le Francais and worked in France before she went to work at Carlos`, where she met her husband. Her desserts are masterpieces.
Chocolate delice looks like a dark chocolate, miniature hat box filled with airy but rich white chocolate mousse and fresh raspberries. The
”symphony of chocolates” includes a hazelnut and Cointreau buttercream and finely textured spongecake torte. Fresh strawberry and peach tart with pistachio custard surrounded by four fruit sauces includes an unctuous mango sauce. Even the petit fours, presented gratis at the end of the meal on a tiny silver tray, are intensely flavored.
The wine list is still immense but has been updated to reflect the current cellar status. (Some of the older, very expensive wines left with Banchet-one of the business terms when you deal with restaurants of this caliber.) Even though the wine list is intimidating, Frederick Bomble, Le Francais` sommelier, graciously offers advice and is a sincere help in selecting an appropriate bottle of wine within even a moderate price range. The ever-tempting after-dinner drink cart, containing Cognacs and liqueurs, is still available.
Lunch is new at Le Francais and quite wonderful. Portions are smaller than at dinner but still satisfying. There are main course salads and more than a half dozen hot entrees, from $13.50 to $15.50, which include a house salad.
A luncheon special of ”lasagne” is like no other. Liccioni layers bi-color noodles (egg and black squid ink) with pink salmon fillets and fans out the layers on a bed of rich sorrel sauce and fresh wax beans. Baby vegetables, such as stuffed cherry tomatoes, carrots and squash, accompany the lasagne.
Equally as good is the steamed stuffed rolled chicken breast filled with a chicken mousse and served with a creamy tarragon sauce. Tender, pale, veal medallions with earthy-flavored wild mushrooms and a salad starring sliced rare squab breast are simply great.
What will it cost you for dinner now at Le Francais? About the same as it did before: $75 to $90 a person for just the food, easily up to $110 to $130 with wine and tip. Lunch is a ”bargain” way to explore this four-star restaurant; count on about $26 a person for the food, $43 to $53 with wine and tip.
Under anyone else`s control, the new Le Francais may have disappointed. But with the talented Roland and Mary Beth Liccioni at the helm, Le Francais remains a hallmark of outstanding dining.
LE FRANCAIS
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
French. 269 S. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling, 541-7470. Hours: Dinner Mon.-Sat., two seatings: 6-6:30 p.m. and 9-9:30 p.m. Lunch Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner price range: Appetizers $12.50-$19.50, entrees $28.50-$30, desserts $8; dinner for two of appetizer, salad, entree, dessert, tax and tip: $150-$180. Credit cards: American Express, Carte Blanche, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa, Discover. Reservations: Required.
RATING SYSTEM
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) Outstanding
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) Excellent
(STAR)(STAR) Very good
(STAR) Good
Satisfactory
Unsatisfactory
The rating reflects the reviewer`s opinion of the food in relation to price compared with similar restaurants in the Chicago area. Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits; more visits are made when necessary. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Tribune.
