Lionel Poilaine is as much a philosopher as a master baker. ”Baking is like life,” says the small, long-haired, dapper man who carries one of the most famous names in the bread industry. ”Always a starter gives life to the next batch. That`s why there is always an emotion to baking.”
Poilaine, who runs the famous Poilaine bakeries in Paris, was in Chicago last week as part of Marshall Field`s Paris en Cuisine promotion. His tips to home breadbakers include the advice: ”Don`t think of bread baking as scientific. Take the method away and use your heart. Feel the possibility in the dough and use your touch.”
Poilaine`s basic 4 1/2-pound loaf is 13 inches in diameter with a crusty exterior and a chewy, tangy interior.
But philosophy doesn`t hinder competition. Another Poilaine bread appeared briefly in Chicago, and Lionel Poilaine says this is ”most unfortunate.” Brother, Max Poilaine, decided to compete for a share of the U.S. market separately, using the trademarked family name. The result? A bit of bad blood and some litigation.
Lionel Poilaine`s bread is found in Marshall Field`s for $25 for a 4 1/
2-pound loaf, at C`est Si Bon, 60 E. Walton St., for $17 per loaf, and by mail-order for $25 from Deborah`s Country French Bread, 954 W. Washington Blvd., 60607 or call 633-4004.
