Rose Levy Beranbaum autographs ”A Passion for Chocolate” with a chocolate fingerprint and writes the word ”guilty” under it in brown ink. Chocolate is definitely a passion for this New York cooking school teacher and author, who has been working with chocolate for years.
In working to adapt the recipes for the new book from the Bernachon chocolatiers in Lyon, France, Beranbaum used American chocolate, flour, an American food processor and microwave oven and other equipment, including Zip- Lock bags.
Zip-Lock bags? ”Yes, it`s the safest method to melt chocolate,” she said. ”Just put the chocolate in a heavy-duty Zip-Lock, seal it, and put it in a bowl of hot water. If you need to pipe it over a dessert, just snip one of the corners and squeeze the chocolate out. And it`s disposable, too.”
Other tips are found throughout the book, including a fast way to make ganache, that heady mixture of chocolate and whipping cream that is used as filling or frosting. Beranbaum suggests grinding the chocolate in a food processor, then to melt it, adding scalding hot cream as the processor is running. Then the ganache simply needs chilling until it reaches a spreading consistency. It`s quick and easy.
The majority of the desserts in ”A Passion for Chocolate” are fairly complicated and beginning cooks may have trouble with such multi-step recipes as the mille-feuille au chocolat, puff pastry filled with chocolate and topped with chocolate glaze. On the other hand, the recipes for mousse are quick and easy if you have a food processor.
Any chocolate can be used in the Bernachon recipes, but Beranbaum recommends using better quality bittersweet chocolates. She says that Lindt Excellence is the closest to the Bernachon chocolate. We used Ghiradelli chocolate with good results. Look for these chocolates in gourmet food shops, department stores and some supermarkets, such as Treasure Island stores.
Here are some recipes adapted from the book.
ALMOND MERINGUE LAYER CAKE FILLED WITH CHOCOLATE GANACHE
(LE SUCCES)
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Baking time: 15 to 20 minutes
Yield: 10 to 12 servings
”This cake is the Bernachon`s hands-down favorite (mine, too!),” writes Rose Levy Beranbaum in ”A Passion for Chocolate.” ”This is the cake Maurice`s mother made for him when he was a child. The cake will have the tenderest texture if prepared at least 1 day ahead.”
2 cups (6.25 ounces) sliced almonds
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (6.25 ounces) superfine sugar, see note
7 large egg whites, at room temperature
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
Ganache:
1 pound bittersweet chocolate
1 2/3 cups creme fraiche or whipping cream, see note
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour 2 baking sheets or line with parchment paper. Draw three 8-inch circles on baking sheets. Process almonds and 3/4 cup sugar in food processor until almonds are finely grated. 2. Beat egg whites until foamy in bowl of electric mixer. Add cream of tartar; beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Gradually add remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, beating until stiff peaks form when beater is raised slowly. Fold in grated almond mixture.
3. Using a 1-gallon zip-seal bag with one corner cut off, or a pastry bag fitted with large plain number 6 ( 1/2-inch) tip, pipe batter onto prepared baking sheets to form three 8-inch circles, starting with perimeter and spiraling inward toward center. Use a small metal spatula to fill in any gaps with leftover batter and to smooth the surface. Bake just until the discs begin to brown, 15 to 20 minutes.
4. Remove baking sheets to a rack. Loosen the succes layers from the sheets; allow them to cool completely on the sheets before transferring to a work surface or serving plate. They will have expanded to about 9 inches. To obtain a perfect circle, invert a cake pan over the succes and trim any excess with a sharp knife.
5. For ganache, break chocolate into pieces and process in food processor until very fine.
6. Heat creme fraiche or cream to boil, and with the motor running, pour it through the feed tube in a steady stream. Process a few seconds until smooth. Transfer to bowl and cool for several hours, until frosting consistency. (In cool weather ganache can remain unrefrigerated for at least 3 days, or as long as 2 weeks. At room temperature it remains spreadable.)
7. Place 1 disc of succes on a cardboard round or serving plate, and top with an even layer of about 2/3 of the ganache. Place the second disc on top, flat side up. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Using a long metal spatula, spread the remaining ganache evenly on top of the cake and a thin layer around the sides.
8. Place a few tablespoons of cocoa in a flour dredger or fine strainer and sprinkle it evenly over the top of the succes. For decorative markings, lightly press a cake rack on top of the cocoa and lift away carefully. Slice with a serrated knife. Will keep in airtight wrapping for 5 days refrigerated. Remove from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before serving.
Note: Use superfine sugar for the best texture, although granulated sugar also will work.
To make creme fraiche: Combine 1 cup heavy or whipping cream with 1 tablespoon buttermilk in jar with a tight-fitting lid. Place it in a warm spot such as the top of the refrigerator or near a stove. Allow it to sit undisturbed for 12 to 14 hours, or until thickened but still pourable. (Ultra- pasteurized cream may take as long as 36 hours.)
LES BROWNIES
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 30 to 35 minutes
Yield: 16 brownies
”This fabulous brownie recipe was given to the Bernachons by two American women who taught cooking in Lyon, France,” writes Rose Levy Beranbaum in ”A Passion for Chocolate.” ”The brownies are medium chocolate in color, and slice easily yet somehow stay (miraculously) moist and chewy.”
5 ounces bittersweet chocolate
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/4 cups sifted all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon each: baking powder, salt
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons superfine sugar, see note
2 extra-large eggs, beaten
1 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease 8-inch square baking pan, line with parchment or wax paper. Grease paper and sprinkle lightly with flour. Break chocolate into pieces and put them with the butter in top of double boiler set over very hot water (but no hotter than 160 degrees). The water must not simmer or touch the bottom of the double boiler insert.
2. Stir until chocolate begins to melt. Return pan to low heat if water cools, but be careful that it does not get too hot. (The chocolate and butter may be melted in a microwave oven if stirred every 15 seconds.) Using either method, remove chocolate from the heat source before fully melted and stir, using the residual heat to complete the melting. Allow the chocolate to cool just until no hotter than lukewarm.
3. Mix flour, baking powder and salt in small bowl. Add to the chocolate gradually along with the sugar and eggs. Mix until well incorporated. Stir in the nuts. Scrape the batter into prepared pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out almost clean, 30 to 35 minutes. The brownies should be slightly moist in the center.
4. Loosen the sides with a small metal spatula and unmold onto a lightly greased cookie sheet. Reinvert onto a lightly greased second cookie sheet. When cool, use a serrated or sharp knife to cut the brownies into 2-inch squares. If not serving immediately, wrap each brownie in plastic wrap to preserve moisture.
RICH COFFEE-FLAVORED CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
(LA MOUSSE CHOCOLATEE AU MOKA)
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Chilling time: 4 to 12 hours
From ”A Passion for Chocolate” comes this extra-rich, dense mousse.
7 ounces bittersweet chocolate
1 tablespoon instant espresso powder
1 cup creme fraiche or whipping cream, see note
3 extra-large eggs, separated
Chocolate curls or chocolate covered coffee beans, optional
1. Break the chocolate into pieces and process with the espresso powder in a food processor until ground fine.
2. Heat the creme fraiche or cream to a boiling point and pour it steadily through the feed tube of the food processor with the motor running. Process until smooth, a few seconds.
3. Add the egg yolks to the hot chocolate mixture and process a few seconds to incorporate. Transfer to a large bowl and cool completely.
4. Beat the egg whites in large mixing bowl until stiff but not dry. (The bec d`oiseau stage-when the whites will hold a peak that is slightly curved, like a ”bird`s beak”-is just right.) Scoop about 1/4 of the beaten whites onto the chocolate mixture, and using a large rubber spatula, stir them into the mixture. Gently and quickly fold in the remaining whites.
5. Pour the mousse into serving dishes. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours. It is best served the day it is prepared. Decorate with chocolate curls or chocolate coffee beans.
To make creme fraiche: Combine 1 cup heavy or whipping cream with 1 tablespoon buttermilk in jar with a tight-fitting lid. Place it in a warm spot such as the top of the refrigerator or near a stove. Allow it to sit undisturbed for 12 to 14 hours, or until thickened but still pourable. (Ultra- pasteurized cream may take as long as 36 hours.)
