The Swiss Alps in the dead of winter with no snow? ”Unheard of . . . unthinkable,” skiers may object with the words of Tevye in ”Fiddler on the Roof” in judgment of a break with tradition. ”On the other hand . . . ” While disappointment is an understatement for those with minds set on skiing, there are many alternative pleasures available should you find yourself in the Alps with no snow.
My husband and I have been taking ”ski packages” to Switzerland and Austria for years, and we don`t even ski. We`ve found that the winter deals are too good a value to pass up.
For example, this winter`s Swissair package for $924 included air fare direct from Chicago and hotel for seven nights with breakfast and dinner daily. An eight-day Swiss Pass cost $125 here-somewhat higher at the rail station inside the Zurich airport, depending on exchange rates. (The Swiss Pass allows virtually unimited rail and bus travel-excluding certain mountain runs.)
Last month, snowless winter Switzerland offered places to visit, trains to ride, trails to hike, culture to experience. We used Interlaken as a base because of its location on the Swiss rail system and filled six days to the brim.
Clear sky each morning
Each day we were up before dawn and enjoyed a glorious clear sky, which is even more rare for Interlaken in January than this year`s lack of snow.
It is easy to get to Interlaken from the Zurich airport-an escalator deposited us on the train platform. We boarded a direct train and arrived in Interlaken in 2 1/2 hours.
In Interlaken, all the hotels are within a short walk or taxi ride from the west or the east station. Ours, the crisp-curtained Chalet Swiss, is north of the river at the edge of town.
The 30-room inn, quiet and full of atmosphere, is owned and operated by Frau Schmidt who takes a personal interest in the guests. She can be seen with still a curler or two in her hair making wake-up calls before 7 a.m. and vivaciously chatting over coffee or wine after dinner in the homey lounge. In between she personally supervises the cleaning staff so that everything is kept to her own immaculate standard and frequents the kitchen, creating the menus and stirring the sauce.
She runs a tight ship and was ”not too thrilled” with a group of Americans (she voiced the view that they must be ”peasants”) who on the evening of their arrival paraded around with beer bottles and called to each other from across the room. ”We don`t do that here,” she confided to us.
On the day after our arrival, an hour`s train ride took us up to the resort village of Wengen. Seated on a sunny terrace, we lunched with ringside seats to watch the skiers-turned-hang-gliders landing in the grassy meadow across the way. Wengen is host to an annual international ski race event each January-this year it has been postponed until April.
Another half-hour from Wengen by cogwheel railway is Kleine Scheidegg. This is the route of Europe`s highest (and most expensive) rail trip. It goes to the Jungfraujoch-a full day`s excursion round trip from Interlaken-a trip well worth the time and price. In January, tourism promotion people offered it at half fare (about $40) to brighten the spirits of skiers. Having made the trip before, we passed up the bargain.
Hiking trails between Wengen and Kleine Scheidegg were busy, but the one we took down to Grindelwald was all but deserted. The paths would normally be snow covered, instead of patched, and used by skiers instead of walkers. Waterfalls and mountain streams with little water rushing from above were frozen silent. Surrounded by the majesty of the mountains, the expanse of silence could be felt, and we breathed deep drinks of the delicious air.
Grindelwald isn`t quiet
Farm houses marked the outskirts of Grindelwald and the end of the 2 1/2- hour hike. Time for a quiet coffee before the hour-long ride back to Interlaken. But ”quiet” is not the norm in Grindelwald, which is more commercial and touristy than Interlaken.
One day we climbed by rail through pastures and peaks to Zermatt. Just over three hours from Interlaken, Zermatt is home of the Matterhorn, probably the most-pictured peak in Swiss promotional literature.
Rail provides the only access to Zermatt. A vast parking lot at the station at Tasch is the end of the line for cars. Little electric carts are the only motor vehicles allowed in Zermatt, where guests are met at the station by horse-drawn sleigh or carriage.
With a long history of mountaineering, Zermatt is a favorite, fashionable ski center. The town (population less than 4,000) was somewhat empty and peaceful this January. Vacationers took relaxing lunches at sun-drenched outdoor cafes with a full view of the pyramidal Matterhorn and strolled the narrow lanes.
Old, dark wooden houses blend with elegant shops to give Zermatt its very-Swiss personality. Absent were the clomping of ski boots and swishing nylon of bright-colored ski clothes.
Perched on a plateau a half-hour bus ride up from Interlaken is Beatenberg. Like many Alpine villages, Beatenberg has one main street and chalets dotting the hillside. We spent several hours walking along the ridge and savoring panoramic views of the valley, Lake Thun and the Monch, the Eiger and the Jungfrau.
Buses leave for the return trip hourly. A funicular also operates from the town of Thun, just minutes down the rail from Interlaken.
3 hours to Geneva
The trip to Geneva takes a little over three hours, the better part of which can be spent enjoying a snack in the dining car. The electric trains are so smooth that the coffee barely moves in the cups. The pleasant journey passes through vineyard laden hillsides and along Lac Leman.
Our primary purpose once in Geneva was to tour the United Nations headquarters. We boarded the No. 8 bus and arrived in time for the 11:45 tour, the last before the two-hour mid-day break. The tour was excellent and capably conducted. A dozen or so young professionals in new positions with the UN were on an orientation trip. Possibly we reaped the benefit of a little extra treatment.
At the entrance to the headquarters is the Swiss Hotel School. Its graduates become leaders in the world-renowned industry. The school operates a restaurant, the Vieux-Bois, to give the students required practical experience.
The restaurant, like the school, is very French, typical for Geneva. Beautifully draped windows overlook a park. Fresh flowers and spotless white linen complete the impecable crystal-chandeliered ambiance.
Our exquisite lunch started with slices of salmon mouse wrapped in flaky pastry. Entrees of poached salmon and perch, in whispers of light sauce and garnished with crescent-shaped puff pastry, were served under silver domes. New potatoes and rice accompanied these in small silver skillets.
Crusty rolls, feathery inside, were served with silver tongs from a linen-lined basket. Each item was specially served by a white-jacketed student. Including narrow flasks of white and rose wines, the cost was about $29. The service was flawless and the food fit for the most discriminating clientele.
There was just time for the bus ride to the park in which is the Reformation Monument. Oversized likenesses of John Calvin, John Knox, Oliver Cromwell and others gleamed in the afternoon sun all along the 300-foot wall etched with significant moments of Reformation history.
Overnight stay best
Our day in Geneva was a contrast to the rest of the week. Geneva has much to offer. For visitors who want to take in more, an overnight stay is recommended. But we`d done what we had come to do, so we boarded the train about 4 p.m., headed for the diner and sipped afternoon coffee during the hour left of daylight before reaching Bern.
Gstaad is less than two hours from Interlaken. At Zweisimmen we changed to the Panoramic Express. The special train has wide windows along the sides and ceiling. It sleeked through a panorama of snow-mottled Alpine forests, glaciers and lakes for the half-hour to Gstaad.
Gstaad is the choice of the likes of Liz Taylor, Frank Sinatra, Prince Ranier, Paul McCartney and Roger Moore. It is definitely upscale, but at the same time quietly retains its down-home Swissness.
We felt fortunate to have lunch among the ”locals” in a little pine-lined, curtained cafe. Wandering the ”back lanes” among elegant chalets overlooking the town, we recognized the distinction of Gstaad. (We noted again that balance between posh and cozy.)
The Panoramic Express continues for another hour and a quarter to Montreux-a ride just for the beauty of it.
Lucerne a day trip
Lucerne makes a comfortable day`s excursion from Interlaken and has a worthy set of attractions. But we ran short of time. After some last-minute shopping in Interlaken, we just headed in that direction.
”We have a nice tea room. Why don`t you have a coffee and try one?” the aproned proprietor of a Meiringen bake shop invited as we looked over his specialties.
”Sorry. We have only a few minutes before catching a train.” Meiringen seemed as far as we should go before reversing directions to return and prepare for our departure the next day.
”Too bad.” He smiled broadly.
After leaving the shop we wandered down the street. Not a bad little town. ”If we miss this train, how long before the next one?”
Why not? Back at the friendly shop the aproned man`s wife rushed from behind the counter and ushered us to a window table. She lit our candle in its silver holder and brought us coffee with real whipped cream plus a plate of cookies.
The return trip to the Zurich airport was just as painless as it had been for our arrival. It had been a relaxing week full of clean air and sunshine, incredible scenery, fine hospitality and new experiences-despite the lack of snow.
