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If I were sentenced to eat only one vegetable for the rest of my life, I would choose butternut squash.

It is versatile, adaptable, durable and delicious. It can be boiled, baked, microwaved, pan-fried, pureed or stuffed. It can stand in for pumpkin in any recipe. It can be used as a starter, main course, vegetable or dessert. One cup of a baked, mashed butternut squash has about 139 calories; it`s also a good source of vitamins A and C, as well as calcium and potassium.

There are three ways of cooking the squash before using it in recipes.

Baking: Cut the squash into large chunks or into halves. Set in a baking dish, cover with foil and bake at 350 degrees until the flesh is soft, 45 to 60 minutes. Cut off the rind and remove the seeds.

Boiling: Cut the squash into chunks, drop into boiling salted water and cook until flesh is soft, about 40 minutes. Remove the rind and seeds.

Microwave: Pierce the whole squash five or six times with a knife; or, cut it in half if it fits in your oven better. Put it on a plate, cover with paper towels and microwave on high (100 percent power) for 10 minutes. Turn the squash and microwave until the squash is soft, about another 10 minutes. Remove seeds and skin.

Once you`ve cooked your squash, you can use it in any of the following recipes.

BUTTERNUT SOUP

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

1 large butternut squash, about 4 pounds

6 cups chicken stock or broth

1 large onion, chopped

1 teaspoon each: mace, nutmeg

Salt, pepper to taste

Sour cream or yogurt, Parmesan cheese (for garnish)

1. Cook squash as directed above; peel and remove seeds. Put stock and onion in large saucepan, heat to boil and cook gently for 20 minutes, partly covered. Add squash and seasonings and simmer gently for 25 minutes, uncovered.

2. Puree soup in blender or food processor. Return soup to saucepan. Taste and adjust seasonings; keep warm until ready to serve. Serve garnished with desired topping.

Note: Soup may be made ahead and refrigerated for up to three days or frozen up to one month.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH CUSTARD PIE

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 55 minutes

Yield: 10 servings

2 cups cooked butternut squash

1 cup packed dark brown sugar

1 cup whipping cream

3 eggs

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger root

1 tablespoon flour

1 teaspoon each: cinnamon, nutmeg, salt

Grated rind of 1 lemon

1 unbaked 9-inch pie shell

Whipped cream flavored with sugar and rum

1. Cook squash as directed above; peel and remove seeds. Measure out 2 cups.

2. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Puree the squash and, if desired, strain to make sure it is quite smooth. Mix squash with brown sugar, whipping cream, eggs, ginger, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and lemon rind.

3. Pour into pie shell. Bake for 15 minutes on the lowest rack, then reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees and bake until custard sets, about 40 more minutes. (A knife inserted in the middle should come out clean.) Cool;

serve with flavored whipped cream.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH MUFFINS

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 15 to 20 minutes

Yield: 12 muffins

Marmalade butter makes an excellent spread for these muffins.

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) butter or margarine, softened

2 tablespoons molasses

1 egg

1 cup cooked, pureed butternut squash, see above

1 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon each: baking soda, salt

2 tablespoons orange juice

1 tablespoon finely grated orange rind

Marmalade butter, optional (recipe follows)

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Grease 12 muffin cups.

2. Cream brown sugar, butter and molasses in medium mixer bowl until light. Beat in the egg and squash puree. Sift the dry ingredients over the bowl and stir into the batter. Stir in the juice and rind just until all the ingredients are incorporated.

3. Spoon into 12 greased muffin cups. Bake until muffins are puffed and set, 15 to 20 minutes. Turn out onto wire rack; cool. (Muffins may be frozen.) Marmalade butter: Combine equal amounts of orange marmalade and softened butter.

BAKED BUTTERNUT SQUASH

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 60 minutes

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

1 butternut squash

2 medium onions

3 tomatoes

Salt, pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg to taste

2 tablespoons oil (optional)

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cook the whole squash in boiling water 10 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel and seed and cut into 3-inch chunks. 2. Slice onions and tomatoes into 1/4-inch thick slices. Arrange squash pieces in a baking dish and layer the onion and tomato slices on top. Season with salt, pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg. If desired, drizzle with oil.

3. Cover with foil and bake until squash is tender, 35 to 40 minutes. Uncover and bake another 10 minutes.