Asked who James Beard was, a colleague voiced his opinion without a moment`s hesitation.
”James Beard was a walking culinary encyclopedia.”
Beard amassed a wealth of food- and wine-related knowledge of mythic proportions in his 80-some years.
He was as comfortable and conversant discussing French wines as he was the pleasures of a simple stew. Long before it was in vogue, Beard celebrated American foods and native ingredients, even at a time when American culinarians were rabidly Francophilic in their orientation. He always kept one step ahead of the times, content to be there and confident that the rest of the world would catch up in due time.
Since his death five years ago, there have been various efforts to nurture and sustain his legacy. Some are well-placed and genuine, others a bit murky. The James Beard Foundation has been established, largely at the behest of Julia Child, to preserve his collections and to educate and enhance the status of the cooking profession.
Now, 5 1/2 years after Beard`s death, there are books as well, two just published and another in the works. The real motivation behind the books isn`t entirely clear.
The two just-published books are vastly different in scope. ”Epicurean Delight,” by Evan Jones (Knopf, $24.95), is a biography, starting from Beard`s childhood in Oregon and ending at his townhouse in New York`s Greenwich Village. The other, ”The James Beard Celebration Cookbook,” edited by Barbara Kafka (Morrow, $24.95), is a collection of reminiscences coupled with recipes.
Biography vs. anecdote
”Epicurean Delight” is presented as a formal biography, chronicling his childhood years, then following him through an early acting career, his entry into the food world and eventual domination of it. In the end, an important question remains: What is this really all about? In writing the biographical work, Jones presents facts but rarely establishes a connection between Beard`s private life and his public personna. The minutiae of Beard`s life aren`t all that compelling and, more important, aren`t essential to understanding his character or his work.
”The James Beard Celebration Cookbook” is a series of anecdotes, penned by a cadre of food people who were touched by Beard in one way or another. When the format works, it leaves the reader with a sense of Beard`s importance, capturing the essence of the man as seen through the eyes of those who venerated him. Jane Grigson, the late British cookbook author, wrote extravagantly of her chance meeting with Beard at a restaurant in Wiltshire:
”From him I caught a sense of pride: He knew that what keeps us alive is worthy of all our attention and care-and of a lifetime of study.”
Such moments of clarity, though, are interspersed with more mundane details that surely were dear to those who wrote them but have little relevance to the big picture. In several instances, the contributors had no memories to share, just recipes; that destroys the cohesiveness of the book and undermines its intent.
A feeding frenzy
The publication of both books has generated a certain amount of vicious gossip in New York`s food world. To the innocent reader, those outside the world of foodies, either book can be seen as a tribute to Beard`s memory. On a deeper level, though, they contribute to a saga of Byzantine complexity. The authors and various protegees of Beard have chosen sides and slung barbs back and forth, questioning motives and pointing accusatory fingers.
Jones and his wife, Judith, who was Beard`s book editor at Knopf, are accused of creating a conflict of interest while continuing to hype the Beard legacy. This is viewed by some as an effort to strengthen sales of Beard`s books, in which Judith Jones has a vested interest.
Kafka, on the other hand, gets maligned for everything from her personality to her skills and professionalism.
Beard was a towering figure, both literally and figuratively, whose culinary influences will be felt for generations to come. For this, he certainly deserves acknowledgement, tribute and further study by those who consider American food to be important.
The very best way to learn about Beard is through his own books, from which there are many to choose. A man of strong opinions, Beard communicated his vast knowledge, wit, passion and conviction through his books.
The most logical place to start may be ”Delights and Prejudices,” the first volume of his autobiographical memoirs. (The second volume was in progress at the time of his death. The notes are now embroiled in the ongoing squabbles between Kakfa and Jones.)
Written in 1964, it recently has been reissued in paperback (Collier Books, $12.95). The foreword, by Kakfa, makes a fine point: ”If we want to find the true voice of Beard . . . we must turn to this lovingly written book.”
Others worth reading
There are other fine books worth reading. Like ”Delights and Prejudices,” ”Beard on Food” (out-of-print) is written in the first person and gives further glimpses into the real James Beard. The ”Fireside Cookbook”, the work which established him as a household name, is worth looking into for its delightful drawings and easy approach to cooking. In all, there are upwards of 20 books and a trove of articles and pamphlets written by Beard. In each, his authoritative voice rings clear.
Another way to know the man is through his recipes. One of the most famous from Beard`s vast collection is also one of the oldest, a product of his first venture into the professional food world: Onion ”rings,” as they are called, were devised during the late 1930s and served to New Yorkers who found themselves at events catered by Hors d` Oeuvre, a company owned by Beard and several partners.
You might look at the list of the ingredients for the little onion sandwiches and dismiss the recipe as too plebeian, especially judged by today`s standards. But there`s folly in such thinking. The recipe has aged well and is as good now as it was then. It asks only that care and fine ingredients be used. Homemade mayonnaise and best-quality bread are requisite. And as a final note, consider this: A trip several weeks ago into one of the tonier carryout shops found a tray of onion rings in the display case. The simple little morsels, immortalized by Beard more than 50 years ago, were selling for $18.95 a pound.
Here is the recipe, as it appears in ”Delights and Prejudices.”
Onion rings
Make brioche into a loaf or have a baker do it for you. As a substitute, you can use challah, the Jewish egg bread. Chill the loaves well in the refrigerator before slicing. For a party of about 20 people, I generally use 2 large loaves. Chop 3 large bunches of parsley and slice some small white onions quite thin. You will need one thin onion slice or so for each sandwich. Cut the bread into 1/4-inch slices, and then, with a small cutter, cut the slices into rounds (about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter). Arrange the rounds on a board or table and spread them with mayonnaise. On half of them place a slice of onion. Salt the onions, top with a round of brioche and press gently. Have a plate of mayonnaise and a plate of parsley ready. Now roll the edge of each sandwich first in mayonnaise, then in parsley. The parsley should make a fairly heavy wreath. Arrange the sandwiches in a box or on plates and chill, covered, before serving. If well packed they will hold well in the refrigerator for several hours or even overnight. I guarantee, they will disappear faster than anything else you can serve!
