The Rhone River Valley of southern France is one of the most interesting areas in the world. Aside from being visually spectacular, it also produces three of the greatest names known to winelovers: Cote-Rotie, Hermitage and Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
But even if it did not produce a drop of wine, it still would be a fascinating region because it provides a playground for such disparate disciplines as history, geology and politics. The bonus for researchers who concentrate on this part of the world is that the rich red wine that comes from the most southerly reaches of the river-near Chateauneuf-du-Pape-is tightly intertwined with these other studies.
Historians will point to the internecine squabbles of churchmen and noblemen through the centuries, but the winelovers among historians will center on the so-called Avignon Papacy of the 14th Century. In the early 1300s, a new French pope was elected in Rome; and because the French king provided sufficient persuasion, the residence of this pope and a few popes thereafter was Avignon.
These popes, and especially John XXII, restored some old dwellings north of Avignon and used them as a summer home to get away from it all, according to Livingstone-Learmonth and Master in ”The Wines of the Rhone.” Vineyards that had been established centuries before also were restored. The French popes would present casks of this wine from the vineyards of the ”new home of the pope” to religious and political biggies. In the process, they established the wine`s reputation as one of the world`s great reds.
Enter the politicians. In order to protect the reputation of this wine from the fraudulent practices that occurred in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, the Baron Leroy de Boiseaumarie-a local political power and a vineyard owner-devised a system of regulations in 1923.
Strict production rules
The region was strictly defined and delimited; only certain traditional grape varieties could be used (15 red and white varieties, with grenache, mourvedre and syrah predominating); no more than a miserly 2 1/2 tons of fruit per acre could be produced (for flavor concentration); and the minimum grape- ripeness level was fixed to ensure a properly stable and full-bodied wine.
To ensure the use of healthy grapes, the baron also insisted that at least 5 percent of the crop must be thrown away as an incentive to the growers to keep only the best fruit. The baron`s local regulations were later applied wholesale to the rest of France, and thus was created the current system of wine laws, known as appellation d`origine controlee.
The geology of the area is directly linked to the nature of the wine. Over eons, the Rhone River carved out Alpine rocks from its origins in Switzerland and deposited their crumbled remains at its end, especially on the plateaus near the town of Avignon, a few miles north of the Mediterranean.
These fist- to football-size stones act as heat sponges. During the day, they absorb the sun`s energy; during the cool of the night, they radiate it back, offering greater ripening possibilities and intensifying fruit flavor.
The action of the river over millennia also carved out a valley, down which comes a drying wind from the north, locally known as the mistral. Its effects are especially felt toward the southern end of the valley. This fierce wind not only helps prevent the development of the destructive fungi that are common to vineyards, but it also causes the fruit to have a more concentrated flavor. The result is wine with power, flavor and a capacity to develop in the bottle. Such was the case with the 1988 harvest of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
According to professor Robert Mayberry, whose ”The Wines of the Rhone Valley” is must reading for serious winelovers, the ”1988 Chateauneufs are relatively hard now, but very good and less varied than the 1989s, which were spectacular.” (Don`t look for the `89s until about this time next year.)
This doesn`t mean that all 1988s will be to your liking, as stylistic differences give taste variations; but after having tasted a range of these 1988s, I can offer some insight. Most of the wines below were tasted three times: immediately after opening, after an hour or so and again the next day, just to see what developed and to get hints at how well they age.
Rich as a preserve
If you like the rich and intense style, there is absolutely no surpassing the Chateau Rayas ($45, and extremely hard to find); it tastes as if winemaker/proprietaire Jacques Reynaud had intended to make a preserve of the ripe grapes. Much easier to find and only slightly less rich is Reynaud`s second label, called Pignan ($22).
Try these two to experience the concentration of low-yielding vines. Because they are so outlandishly ripe, full and fruity, you might be tempted to enjoy them now, which is dandy; but both are quite ageable, and two to five more years in the bottle will bring them around. Reynaud uses grenache grapes grown on sandy soils almost exclusively, for which reasons Mayberry says these wines are unlike other Chateauneuf-du-Papes.
The Chateau de Beaucastel ($21) also stands apart from the rest. It, too, is relatively full-bodied; but it is more complex, with more layers of flavor, than the previous wines (perhaps it`s because this estate uses all the grape varieties allowed, as does Mont Redon).
Domaine Moulin-Tacussel ($15), a new entry on the market, is equally fruity and full, but a lot more tart and smelling very much like it was aged in new oak, a practice used by an increasing number of producers. It was immediately drinkable but showed signs of being able to keep.
Similarly, the Bosquet des Papes ($17) can age; but it took a whole day`s aeration before it softened up enough to enjoy. Likewise, the Henri Bonneau Cuvee Marie Beurrir ($27).
(Incidentally, a California wine made in the style of a ”Pape”-the 1988 Cigare Volant from Bonny Doon Winery ($19)-fits into the rich, ripe category and held its own in a blind tasting with the originals.)
Other Chateauneufs that were not as intense but showed ageability and some complexity include the Vieux Telegraphe ($17), with very appealing oaky/ leathery tones, Brunel`s Les Cailloux ($15), Girard`s Le Boucou ($16) and Paul Jaboulet-Aines` always-dependable Les Cedres ($15).
The following are simpler, less exciting, but nonetheless good examples that could provide an entry into the subject: Domaine de Montredon ($22), Avril`s Clos des Papes ($16), Domaine du Caillou ($16), Pere Anselme`s La Fiole ($15) and Guigal ($16).
For those who can remember when Chateauneuf-du-Pape sold for about $10
(or even $5) a bottle, these prices seem high; the 1989s are likely to be much higher. But compared with their equivalents in Bordeaux or Burgundy, they`re bargains that will stand the test of time.
However, if you still don`t want to spend more than $10 for a good, lower-intensity, bargain wine in the style of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, ask your wine dealer to recommend a good Cotes-du-Rhone or Cotes-du-Rhone-Villag es, which are made from basically the same grapes.”
P.S.: Most are drinking just fine now.
