Little things mean a lot, as evidenced by Rooney`s Original Lobster House, where the small touches-the extras-make the biggest impression.
Not to discount the contribution of the main courses, which are quite good, but the perception of value at Rooney`s comes from the small details-or, rather, the obvious effort and attention these details receive.
For starters-literally-there`s the bread basket, which holds a trio of goodies. There are small sourdough rolls, appropriately crusty and chewy;
molasses-laden brown bread, studded with raisins; and fresh cinammon rolls, sticky and sweet. Their unannounced appearance at the dinner table reassures customers that this restaurant isn`t cutting corners.
Also impressive are the accompaniments that adorn Rooney`s entrees. A highlight of the hot turkey dinner, comforting in its familiarity, is a terrific cranberry dressing enhanced by a touch of orange juice, raspberry gelatin and crispy bits of apple; Boston baked beans, a companion to several dishes, are molasses-rich and satisfyingly hearty. The onion-mustard relish, made with three kinds of mustard, is positively addictive, and the tart steak relish also is good.
The closest thing to a signature dish here is potato-onion straw, a ubiquitous accompaniment and a terrific one. Essentially a cross between pommes frites and Hackney`s famed onion loaf, Rooney`s creation consists of deep-fried thin strips of potato and onion mixed together. It`s wonderful; the potatoes and onions create a nice textural counterpoint and the preparation, rendering crunchy exteriors devoid of excess grease, is superior.
Regarding main courses, lobster is the specialty, though the menu offers substantial range. Whole steamed lobsters come in three sizes, ranging in price from $15.95 to $29; the smallest of these will accommodate normal appetites nicely-especially if you opt, for $4, to add a bowl of clams, some baked beans and sweet corn to the order. The steamed lobster shells are cut so thoroughly as to make the lobster cracker wholly unneccesary; the succulent lobster meat is captured without effort and tastes great, with just the right hint of salt.
The menu includes a good number of steak and pasta entrees; you can have some of both with the Commissioner`s Combo, a top sirloin married to penne pasta and shrimp. Our steak was cooked properly and had very good flavor, though its texture was disappointingly mushy; the pasta half of the deal was quite nice, the penne pasta topped with good-sized shrimp and a fragrant, fennel-laced tomato sauce.
For lighter appetites, there`s the hot lobster roll, chunks of sauteed lobster inside a long, split dinner roll ladeled with a silky lobster sauce that`s wonderfully rich. And the burgers are excellent here, well charred outside and very tasty; the accompanying extras fill this dish out nicely.
Appetizers include a substantial mussels marinara, about 30 tender mussels to the portion, in a tomato broth laced with garlic, basil and more than a little pepper; lobster bisque, sweet and creamy and topped with a delicate sprig of fennel, is another good choice. Lobster Savannah, an appetizer version of a famed entree from Boston`s Locke-Ober restaurant, submerges chunks of lobster meat in a cognac cream sauce heavily flavored with green bell pepper; the green pepper almost overwhelmed our sample, but the cognac cream sauce is quite nice.
Desserts take a surprising nontraditional turn, though the results are fine. The Chicago cream pie, a variant of the Boston classic, layers two circular spongecakes with cream filling and a thin dark fudge sauce topping, all placed in a pool of raspberry sauce; the spongecake was rather dry, but the sauce compensates. Creme brulee, made with carmelized maple sugar, is tremendous; the maple adds a warm sweetness to the custard, which gets further help from the whole blueberries swimming inside-another memorable extra. Blueberries also help with the adventurous Indian pudding, molasses-sweetened steamed cornmeal topped with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream.
Rooney`s derives its name from the fictitious Michael Andrew Rooney, the putative son of a Boston firefighter and himself a retired Chicago
firefighter. The saloon-like decor, consequently, is ablaze in firehouse memorabilia; a battle-geared mannequin greets you at the door, the walls are plastered with vintage photos, firefighters badges and the like and even the stenciling along the tops of the walls depicts fire hoses and shamrocks. Waiters do not descend sliding poles to deliver food, and there are no dalmatians wandering the dining room, but otherwise the thematic bases seem pretty well covered.
But what`s this? No four-alarm chili on the menu? How could management resist that one?
The dining room is comfortable, lined with large booths that provide shelter from the overall noise level, which is high. Soft cloth napkins are the size of dishtowels and also see duty as lobster bibs, fastened about the neck with a beaded chain (tie knots in the chain for a custom fit).
Service is brisk and attentive, and there are an impressive number of waiters on the floor at any given moment.
For the 5 p.m. crowd, Rooney`s puts on a good happy hour. The big draw is the one-pound shrimp cocktail-about 30 peeled shrimp-for $5. There`s also a buffet available, also for $5. Pretty good eating for $10, we`d say.
Chalk up another success for owners Dan Rosenthal and Cathy Newton, who also own Trattoria No. 10 and Old Carolina Crab House. Rooney`s isn`t about to become a fine-dining destination, but the restaurant resonates value. In today`s money-conscious market, there may be no better attribute.
———-
(STAR)(STAR) Rooney`s Original Lobster House, 431 N. Dearborn St., 312-467-1100. American. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. (until 5:30 p.m. in bar) Mon.-Fri., dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 5:30-10:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat., closed Sun. Price range: Appetizers $4.50-$7.95, soups/salads $2.95-$8.95, entrees $9.95-$29, desserts $2.95-$3.95; dinner for two of appetizer, soup/
salad, entree, dessert, tax and tip: $63. Credit cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa. Reservations: Recommended. Other: Valet parking ($5)
available.
Rooney`s Original Lobster House
431 N. Dearborn St.
Extras, extras.
Rating system
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) Outstanding
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) Excellent
(STAR)(STAR) Very Good
(STAR) Good
Satisfactory
Unsatisfactory
