One sign that I have finally recovered from the excesses of the holiday season is that I begin dreaming about brandade de morue-salt cod as it would be prepared in heaven. The reconstituted cod is flaked, then asked to absorb a goodly amount of rich, fruity olive oil plus hot milk and a kiss of garlic. The potato-textured white puree is then served with garlic-perfumed croutons and generous quantities of wine.
As with many gems of French cuisine, it is a simple peasant dish and also a favorite of gourmets. The latter are likely-if money is no object-to garnish the brandade with diced or sliced black truffles and serve it with Champagne. (This preparation is a fine choice for dining a deux on Valentine`s Day. It will be both a treat and a test of your sweetheart`s gastronomic fortitude.)
Through history, salt cod-morue in French, baccala in Italian-has been served more often as a necessity than as a spur to romance. Caught and preserved during the fishing season, the fish would be stored away for use when fresh food was scarce. Various Mediterranean nations developed delicious dishes featuring salt cod and still enjoy them today. In New England, too, salted cod played an important part in the diet during Colonial times and long thereafter. (The recipe from Jasper White, Boston`s leading chef, is a homage to all the codfish cakes my Boston-born father insisted we eat during my youth.)
I realize that salt cod, as Richard Olney put it in ”Simple French Food,” ”is considered a vulgar thing by most people.” Yet Olney continues, ”Which does not prevent a great many from adoring it. . . .”
As a result of this dichotomy, however, salt cod is hard to find. Look for it in Italian and Hispanic ethnic groceries, which often sell whole fish, or in specialty food shops, where the cod may be in a wooden box.
Those who hold salt cod in disrepute after actually tasting it may have been victimized by one of the two errors a cook can make in preparing it.
The first involves soaking. The fish must be soaked long enough to lose its salt and to return to something approaching its predehydrated texture. Immerse it in plenty of cold water for at least 24 hours and up to 36, and be sure to change the water several times during this period.
The second error comes in the initial step in preparing the cod. Boiling is a sure recipe for tough, stringy fish. Rinse the fillets (or whole fish cut into pieces), then place them in cold water. Slowly bring the water to a simmer, lower the heat slightly so it does not boil, and cook for only 8 to 10 minutes-unless a piece is exceptionally thick. Discard any skin, bones or hard pieces of fish before continuing.
BRANDADE DE MORUE
(PUREE OF SALT COLD)
Four to six servings
1 pound salt cod
3 pieces of white bread, crusts removed and cut into 12 triangles
3/4 cup good quality olive oil
2/3 cup milk
2 small cloves garlic, 1 clove minced (optional)
Freshly ground pepper, white preferred
Lemon juice (optional)
Chopped parsley (optional garnish)
1. Soak the salt cod and poach it as directed above. Before cooking the cod, fry the bread in a little oil and rub with the whole garlic clove. Set aside.
2. Place fish in a large mortar and flake with a fork. (Alternatively, chop it in a food processor or beat it in a electric mixer.) Meanwhile, heat half a cup of the olive oil and all of the milk in separate pans.
3. Gradually add the hot oil, beating continuously, then the hot milk. Finally, beat in the minced garlic and remaining room-temperature olive oil and season with pepper and optional lemon juice.
4. Mound brandade in the center of small plates. Surround with croutons and garnish with a little optional chopped parsley. Serve at once.
Note: The brandade may be stretched by beating in 2/3 pound hot, freshly boiled potatoes after adding the hot oil and milk. (Do not use a food processor with the potatoes.)
TUTTAPOSTO`S SALT COD WITH CREAM
Six appetizer portions
2 tablespoons olive oil plus 1/4 cup, extra virgin preferred
1 clove garlic, crushed and peeled
1 sprig fresh rosemary
1 large Spanish onion, cut into thin strips
1 pound salt cod, soaked, rinsed and bones removed
2 cups milk
1/2 cup whipping cream
1 large baking potato, peeled and finely diced
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons white truffle oil (optional)
1. In a saucepan large enough to hold the cod, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the garlic, rosemary and half the onions. Saute over low heat for 10 minutes to soften the onions without browning them.
2. Lay cod atop bed of onions and cook an additional 5 minutes without stirring.
3. Add milk and cream, bring to a simmer and poach without boiling for 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Transfer cod to a bowl and break into small pieces. Pour onions and milk mixture into a sieve set over a second bowl. Discard onions, rosemary and garlic. Reserve liquid.
5. In a clean saucepan combine 2 tablespoons olive oil and the remaining uncooked onions. Saute until onions soften, then add potatoes and the reserved liquid. Bring to the point of a boil, lower heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
6. Add cod pieces and allow to reheat. Season with salt and pepper and mix well so the flavors are combined. Continue stirring while adding the 1/4 cup olive oil in a slow, steady stream.
7. Portion onto plates and drizzle optional truffle oil over each portion.
JASPER WHITE`S SALT-COD CAKES WITH BACON
Six to eight servings
1 pound boneless salt cod
2 pounds russet or Maine potatoes, peeled and cut in half
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon dry mustard
Worchestershire sauce
1 egg
3 egg yolks
Freshly ground black pepper
All-purpose flour
1/2 pound thick-sliced bacon, cut into 1/4-inch-thick strips
Parsley, for garnish
Lemon wedges, for garnish.
1. Soak the salt cod in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, changing water several times.
2. Drain off soaking liquid, place cod in a flat pot and cover with fresh cold water. Bring to a simmer. Simmer 5 minutes and remove. Drain well. Break the salt cod into flakes and keep warm.
3. Boil the peeled potatoes in salted water until soft (about 30 minutes). Drain thoroughly in a colander. It is important for the potatoes to be as dry as possible. Cook the onion in the butter until limp.
4. Puree or mash the potatoes while still warm. Add the butter and onion, flaked fish, dry mustard and a few dashes of Worcestershire. Add the egg and egg yolks. Mix very thoroughly with a fork. Season with pepper. Form into small cakes and chill in the refrigerator. This may all be done as much as 4 hours in advance.
5. When ready to serve, dust the fish cakes with flour. Pan-fry the bacon until browned but not too crisp; remove from pan and keep warm. Fry the fish cakes in the bacon fat in the same pan, about 2 minutes on each side. Serve with the bacon, garnished with parsley and lemon wedges. Serve tartar sauce on the side, if desired.
-Adapted from ”Jasper White`s Cooking from New England” (Harper & Row)
CODFISH CROQUETTES
Makes 32 to 36
1/2 pound salt cod
1 cup cooked mashed potatoes
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon curry powder
Salt to taste
1 egg plus 2 eggs, well beaten
2/3 cup dry bread crumbs
Vegetable oil for deep or shallow frying
1. Soak the salt cod in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, changing water several times. Drain off water and poach the cod. Drain the cooked cod and flake it, discarding any skin, bones or hard pieces.
2. In a bowl, combine the flaked cod, mashed potatoes, parsley, curry powder, salt, pepper and 1 egg. Mix very well.
3. Form into balls about 1 inch in diameter. Dip balls into the 2 beaten eggs and coat with bread crumbs. (Recipe may be made several hours ahead to this point. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.)
4. Heat oil in a deep fryer to 375 degrees or heat 1 inch of oil in a heavy skillet, cast-iron preferred. Add the codfish balls and cook until golden brown all over. If working in batches, transfer browned balls to a warm oven. Serve alone or with tartar or red sauce for dipping.
