It’s a rare pleasure to be able to take advantage of a dining trend without having to be seen in too trendy a place.
Trend-spotters tell us that noodle shops are the latest thing in eating out around here, and Lulu’s is one heck of a good noodle shop. Luckily, the downtown Evanston restaurant looks as unpretentious as an Irving’s hot dog joint. That’s because, until a few months ago, it was.
The all-American hot dog has given way to an array of noodle dishes inspired by the great cuisines of Asia-Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese. The owners-a couple of young Americans-have made the variety great and the prices low.
Lulu’s motto is “dim sum & then sum,” which is cute but shouldn’t intimidate those who don’t graze in Chinatown. Dim sum is referred to on the mimeographed menu as “small eats,” and you’ll think you’re in Cheap Eats heaven when you taste what you get for the money.
The cheapest item ($1.45) is a crispy fried sesame ball, which is a sesame-seed-coated ball of rice wrapped around sweet bean paste-a mild yet pleasing combination. A couple of dozen mussels are beautifully steamed in a broth of scallions, garlic and chili peppers. Try getting that at Shaw’s for $3.95. Wine and beer are available too.
Three small eats would make a hearty meal for one person, but it’s fun for a group to order more and share. Browse the map by combining something like vegetable spring rolls ($2.50) from China (well, could be Vietnam) with pot stickers ($2.75) and gyoza (kind of a jumbo pot sticker) filled with duck and pheasant sausage. Then go on to cold spicy sesame noodles with peanuts and scallions ($3.50), finishing with the soothing sesame ball.
Prices on the “big eats” part of the menu run from $5.50 to $6.50: Thai-style entree salads (grilled chicken breast is one), Japanese noodle soup, and Vietnamese rice noodle dishes here.
The big eats are good, but don’t forget that variety is the spice of trendy noodle shops, and you could get two more small eats for the same dough.
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Lulu’s, 626 Davis St., Evanston, 708-869-4343. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Mon.; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri., Sat.; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun. A, M, V.
