Winter in Ireland is lashing wind and rain, brilliant, surprising sunshine, short days and cozy nights gathered in the warmth of pubs. It is the winter solstice dawn lighting up the ancient interior of Newgrange, the older cousin of England’s Stonehenge. And this year it is a time of hope for an end to the troubles that have plagued the six counties of the north for some 25 years.
Despite a Christmas weekend bombing, prospects have never been better for a cessation of violence and a resolution of the conflict which has claimed some 3,000 lives in Northern Ireland and many more in terrorist acts in Britain over the years. Most of the people in Ireland, north and south, are tired of the killing. A majority in Northern Ireland and an overwhelming majority in the Republic of Ireland support the guidelines for peace drawn up by the prime ministers of Britain and Ireland, John Major and Albert Reynolds. The plan awaits a response from the IRA. No one expects the road to be smooth-the hatreds run too deep to be turned off in an instant-but most seem determined to make this plan work.
Politics aside, there is indeed peace to be found in Ireland. Winter here is a time for calling on friends, for meeting in pubs and sitting around peat fires, discussing matters of the heart and mind. For the visitor it is easy to take part in this. You simply sit down and introduce yourself. Often, you will be welcomed to join the party.
Traveling in Ireland in the winter requires a bit more plannning than during the rest of the year. The weather is generally more severe, with heavy rain and strong winds common. Snow is unusual but does occur and frost appears regularly, creating dangerous and unseen ice on the road.
The heart of Dublin is a fine place to feel the pulse of the country, whether you attend a lively traditional music session at a pub or simply wander through the narrow lanes along the River Liffey. Another way is to get a window table in the James Joyce Room of the popular Bewley’s Cafe on Grafton Street. With the decor of an Edwardian drawing room and staff in dress of the period, it seems Joyce himself may be dining in a corner.
Worldwide updates
Algeria: Avoid all travel to Algeria. Islamic militants have warned all foreigners to leave or be killed, and have made good on their threats. Some two dozen foreigners have been killed since September, and many Western embassies have reduced their staffs.
Argentina: The government’s inability to pay back wages owed to thousands of civil servants produced extensive rioting in the city of Santiago del Estero, about 650 miles northwest of Buenos Aires. The situation has quieted, but unrest could recur. Exercise caution.
Congo: Unrest continues in the Congo, especially in the capital of Brazzaville’s southern districts, where some 60 people were killed in recent fighting. Avoid travel here.
France: Construction detonators that fell of a freighter in the English Channel in September have been washing ashore in France, causing beach closures from Brittany to the department Pyrenees-Atlantique which borders Spain. Heavy storms and flooding in France, Germany and other parts of Europe are reminders to winter travelers: Check international weather reports before beginning a journey.
Guinea: All land borders in this West African country-affecting Senegal, Mali, Ivory Coast and Sierra Leone-have been closed until further notice. Be wary at Conakry International airport of individuals posing as officials who will then try to make off with your belongings.
Haiti: Avoid travel here. The country remains tense. Power shortages brought on by the oil embargo have reduced electricity in residential areas of the capital of Port-au-Prince to 2-3 hours a day, while provincial cities receive no power at all. The streets of Port-au-Prince are pitch dark at night and deserted by 9 p.m.
Hong Kong: The Hillside Escalator Link, a series of 20 escalators and three moving sidewalks built to bring commuters from the Mid-Levels residential area on Victoria Peak to Central District, Hong Kong’s main business center, opened recently. The people mover is expected to carry about 30,000 people a day on the downward run from 6 a.m to 10 a.m., and then reverse direction and head uphill until 10 p.m.
India: Some 1,700 demonstrators were arrested outside the U.S. Embassy in New Delhi Dec. 15. Arrests were made when protesters tried to break through the police lines surrounding the embassy. The demonstrators were protesting American policy on Kashmir. Avoid such gatherings because of their tendency to become violent. An indefinite postal strike by 600,000 workers in early December crippled the postal system throughout India.
Israel: Travel to the West Bank and Gaza Strip should be avoided because of tensions between Palestinians and Jewish settlers. Violence erupts regularly and may continue to do so until the Israeli pullout from Jericho and Gaza is implemented as called for in the peace accords.
Kenya: Kenyans frustrated with the legal system are increasingly taking the law into their own hands. In the first 11 months of 1993, some 432 people suspected of committing crimes were killed by mobs. A depressed economy, high inflation and rampant police corruption have teamed to push otherwise law-abiding citizens over the edge.
St. Kitts and Nevis: Tensions between the ruling and opposition parties here led to violent demonstrations and the imposition of a state of emergency and curfew in December. The situation has quieted and the emergency measures have been lifted, but tensions remain and travelers should remain alert to their surroundings and avoid demonstrations.
Philippines: After a crackdown on kidnapping gangs who prey on Chinese-Filipinos, the criminals have started preying on Indian nationals, kidnapping at least six between September and December. All were released after ransoms were paid. Travelers of Indian descent, especially businessmen and women, should exercise caution. A recent grenade attack in a Catholic cathedral in Davao City, the largest city on the southern island of Mindanao, is a sobering reminder of Muslim-Christian tensions here; Mindanao has long been the homeland of the Philippine’s Muslim minority.
Ukraine: Crime has increased significantly in the last two years, largely because of the continuing deterioration of the economy. Muggings of conspicuous tourists are common and can occur at any time of day. In December there were rumors that the government was going to impose a state of emergency, but the rumor was quickly denied. The country is experiencing an acute energy crisis and temperatures in homes and public facilities may be uncomfortable.
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Because conditions can change overnight, always make your own inquiries before you leave home. In the United States, contact a Passport Agency office or the State Department in Washington; abroad, check in with the nearest American embassy or consulate.
