East meets West. Indo-chic. Call it what you may, but ethnic looks will be showing up everywhere thanks to designers from the fashion world’s three capitals.
Their spring collections, due in stores this month, are filled with relaxed pajama-like shapes, exotic touches, and rich colors, prints and textures borrowed from the Far East, Middle East and Africa.
Cases in point: Ralph Lauren’s rice paddy hats with sexy batik sarongs. Mariuccia Mandelli’s elegant mandarin-collared jackets with frog closures for Krizia, and Chloe’s vibrant peasant looks.
Some think it’s about time for foreign intrigue in clothes. “Americans are finally recognizing that since the Cold War, the world is more complex than just Europe and the U.S.,” says Richard Martin, curator of `The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. “The Middle East, South Africa, Far and South East countries, are all players in world peace now. When Japan has a recession, we feel it. How could our culture not reflect that?”
Films certainly have, which may point to where designers got the idea in the first place. Think of the beatific romances depicted in “The Lover,” ” Indochine,” and “Fare-well My Concubine”–all playing in theaters as these spring lines were being dreamed up.
“Such influences lend an exciting pattern and texture mix and shot of color to the new spare shapes,” says Nina Ivon, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, who adds that foreign-inspired looks will be shown throughout the store and its windows this spring.
“Of course, such a melting pot of style isn’t new to Chicago; we’ve always lived among many cultural influences,” continues Ivon. “But what’s new is the design world embracing it with such wonderful interpretations.”
Do-it-yourself update
Don’t think you have to rely on designers to put together spring’s ethnic look. Do it yourself with accessories.
Here are some local offerings:
Culture Quest, 1859E. 87th St., 312-221-2098. Brass and gold-plated bracelets, earrings from Senegal. Prices: $2 to $30. Mudcloth hats, shawls from Mali. Prices: $25 to $200.
Dor Fook Jewelry, 2410 S. Wentworth Ave., 312-326-1941. Jewelry, some with jade or opal, from Hong Kong. Prices: $80 to $600.
Ethnically Speaking, 1411 W. Lunt Ave., 312-764-4008. Sterling from Thailand, Indonesia; prayer box and kohl container necklaces from Afghanistan. Prices: $8 to $250. Indonesian batik sarong scarves. Prices: $14 to $40.
Eye on Design, 35 S. Washington St., Hinsdale, 708-986-5228. Silver anklets, bracelets from Afghanistan; amber from Africa, the Baltic region; beaded belts from India. Prices: $10 to $10,000.
Gallimaufry Gallery, 3345 N. Halsted St., 312-348-8090. Handmade sterling jewelry with semi-precious stones from Nepal; sterling granulation earrings from Bali. Prices: $18 to $50.
Mexican Folk Arts, 2433 N. Clark St., 312-871-1511. Wood or bead necklaces–some with Zuni fetishes– from Mexico, Chile; chain-link silver bracelets in ornamental designs from Mexico. Prices: $20 to $200.
The Mexican Shop, 801 Dempster Ave., Evanston, 708-475-8665 (will be closing Saturday to April 1). Ethiopian Coptic crosses; African nomad pendants; Mexicah sterling. Prices: $10 to $160. Indian, Pakistani scarves; Indian, Guatemalan, Turkish bags. Prices: $10 to $24.
Nonpareil, 2300 N. Clark St., 312-477-2933. Sterling from India, Mexico, Israel. Prices: $20 to $90.
