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Although this will astonish more than a few chocoholics, the underlying motivation for celebrating Valentine’s Day is not consumption. From the late Middle Ages, the tribute to one (or possibly two) Christian martyrs who died in the 3rd Century A.D. has been meant to elicit an outpouring of love-intensely personal in some cases, writ large to encompass family and friends in others.

There is an undeniable sweetness to this concentrated outpouring of affection, be it the sight of children constructing Valentine’s Day cards at school or of an elderly couple holding hands as they exchange gifts.

Sometimes the display of sweetness is “saccharine”-a bit too sugary. But when it’s just right-warm, rich and natural-it’s like honey.

For this reason, I’m presenting a natural alternative to saccharine sweetness-a sextet of uncomplicated honey-based dessert recipes well-suited to being served as Valentine’s Day treats. The first four were created by the National Honey Board. With some discreet adult assistance, children will be able to prepare them, or at least play sous-chef with them.

HONEY VALENTINE COOKIES

Four large cookies

3/4 cup butter or margarine

3/4 cup honey

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

2 1/2 cups flour

1/2 cup finely chopped almonds

1. Heat oven to 300 degrees. With an electric mixer, beat butter, honey and almond extract until mixture is light and fluffy. Add flour, 1 cup at a time, beating well after each addition. Mix in almonds.

2. Shape 1/2-cup portions of dough into heart shapes, no thinner than 1/2 inch, on an ungreased baking sheet. Decorate as desired.

3. Bake cookies for 25 to 30 minutes, or until edges brown. Let cool for 5 minutes before removing from pan.

Decorating tips: Make egg-yolk paint by mixing an egg yolk with 1/2 teaspoon water and some red food coloring. Use a brush to paint design on cookies. Alternatively, place a small doily cutout on a cookie and use a stiff brush and colored yolk to create a lacy effect.

HONEY GRAPEFRUIT DELIGHT

Two or three servings

2 pink or red grapefruits

4 tablespoons honey

1 cup plain yogurt

1/4 teaspoon grated grapefruit peel

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

2 to 3 tablespoons sliced almonds, toasted

1. Grate enough grapefruit peel to fill 1/4 teaspoon; reserve. Peel and slice grapefruit into 1/2-inch-thick circular pieces. Gently toss grapefruit and 2 tablespoons honey. Refrigerate until serving time.

2. Combine yogurt, remaining honey, reserved grapefruit peel and almond extract; mix well.

3. Spoon grapefruit into individual dishes; sprinkle with almonds. Top with yogurt sauce and garnish with remaining almonds.

HONEY RASPBERRY TARTS

Four servings

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons butter, melted

1/4 teaspoon grated orange peel

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3 sheets (12 by 17 inches each) phyllo dough

Frozen low-fat vanilla yogurt

Raspberry sauce (recipe follows)

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Combine honey, butter, orange peel and cinnamon; keep warm. Stack sheets of phyllo and cut into 6 squares (this yields 18 square sheets). To make a shell, stack 4 square sheets, rotating each layer slightly to fan edges; brush with honey-butter mixture between second and fourth layers. Carefully press arranged stack into a muffin tin, allowing points to fan out like a flower’s petals. Repeat three times.

2. Bake shells 4 to 6 minutes or until crisp and lightly browned. Cool 5 minutes, then gently remove from pan to a rack.

3. To serve, pool raspberry sauce in the center of a serving plate and place a phyllo tart shell in the center of the sauce. Fill with a scoop of frozen yogurt and top with additional sauce.

RASPBERRY SAUCE

About 2 cups

2 cups fresh or frozen (thawed) raspberries

1/2 cup honey

1 teaspoon grated orange peel

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1. Puree raspberries and strain out seeds. Combine puree with honey and orange peel; mix well. Whisk in cornstarch until well blended.

2. Cook over medium high heat until thickened. Cool.

MICROWAVE HONEY SABAYON

Four servings

1 1/2 cups half and half

1/4 cup honey

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 eggs, beaten

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 teaspoon grated orange peel

Strawberry sauce (recipe follows)

Fresh strawberries, sliced (optional)

1. Combine half and half, honey and cornstarch in a microwave-safe, 1-quart container. Cook in the microwave on high for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring halfway through cooking time.

2. Blend a small amount of the hot liquid with the eggs, return it to the hot mixture and mix well. Cook on high 30 to 60 seconds or until mixture comes to a boil and thickens; stir after 30 seconds.

3. Stir in vanilla and peel. Cool, stirring occasionally.

4. Pour into serving dishes and decorate with strawberry sauce. Garnish with optional brandy and sliced strawberries.

STRAWBERRY SAUCE

About 1 1/4 cups

1 box (10 ounces) frozen sliced strawberries, thawed

2 to 3 teaspoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons brandy or cream sherry (optional)

1. Puree thawed strawberries, then blend in cornstarch.

2. Cook in microwave, set on high, for 3 to 5 minutes, or until thickened, stirring every minute. Stir in optional brandy.

DEIRDRE DAVIS’ HONEY AND LEMON DRESSING

About 3/4 cup

1/4 cup lemon juice

2 teaspoons honey

2 tablespoons scissored fresh chives or chopped fresh mint

Pinch cayenne pepper

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup olive oil

1. Whisk the lemon juice and honey together. Add the chives, cayenne, salt and pepper. Whisk in the oil in a steady stream. Adjust seasoning to taste.

2. Use to dress slices of melon or fresh pineapple, pan-fried slices of ham or cold roast pork, slices of grilled eggplant, slices of fresh tomato or the following pretty salad that could find a place on the menu of a Valentine’s dinner for two.

SWEET POTATO SALAD WITH HONEY-AND-LEMON DRESSING

Two servings

1 large and 1 small sweet potato, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch cubes

1/2 cup tiny peas, fresh or frozen

1/2 small red onion, finely diced

1/2 red apple with skin left on, cored, diced and tossed with a little lemon juice to prevent browning

1/4 cup toasted pecans

3/4 cup honey and lemon dressing (see above)

Boston lettuce or raw spinach (optional)

1. Steam the sweet potatoes for 8 to 10 minutes until they are tender when pierced with a knife. Place them in a large bowl. If using fresh peas, blanch them for 1 to 2 minutes, drain and add to the bowl. (With frozen peas, simply thaw them and add to the bowl.) Add the onion, apple and pecans.

2. Prepare the dressing and pour over the salad. Toss gently to avoid breaking up the potatoes. Taste and correct seasoning as desired. Spoon over a bed of lettuce on each of 2 plates and serve.

Note: Salad may be made ahead and refrigerated for 2 to 8 hours before serving.

-Adapted from “A Fresh Look at Saucing Foods”.