In addition to being a waste of water, a leaky faucet is also an annoyance. Repairing a leaky one, however, is a fairly simple task, even for the inexperienced do-it-yourselfer.
The key to repairing faucets is the inexpensive repair kit produced by the manufacturer specifically for its spout. Many of these kits contain everything you need to repair and basically rebuild a faucet: inserts and washers, springs, O-rings, and even such tools as allen wrenches and a grip to loosen a faucet’s adjusting ring.
Depending on the faucet, most repair kits start at about $2 and go as high as $7. Spending a few dollars is a lot better deal than buying a new faucet,” says Frank Holomshek, a manager with the Chicago-based Elston Ace Hardware. “Faucets are fairly sturdy devices and can last a long time. It’s usually just the small parts that wear out.”
And, Holomshek notes, replacing a faucet can be a much more difficult job than repairing one.
The first step in repairing a faucet is to determine where the leak is coming from: A leaky handle, for example, can require less repair than a leaking spout. Usually, however, it’s worthwhile to rebuild the entire faucet once it’s apart in order to prevent any leaks that could occur elsewhere in the near future.
The second step is to determine what type of faucet you have in your kitchen or bathroom sink. To buy the correct repair kit, you’ll need to know the manufacturer as well as the type of faucet: a washerless or seat-and-spring faucet, a cartridge-type faucet, a ceramic disc faucet, or a compression or stem and seat faucet.
If you don’t know what type you have, the best bet is to take it apart and take the various parts into you local hardware store to match them up.
Before you disassemble a faucet, however, close both the hot and cold water shutoff valves located under the sink. If there are no shutoff valves, you’ll need to shut off the water at the main valve coming into the house. This, of course, will leave the house dry while the repair takes place.
Then, plug the drain with a stopper so that you don’t lose any parts. Cover the sink with a towel to prevent damage in case you drop a tool.
As you take the faucet apart, take care to note how it disassembles so that you can rebuild it correctly. A diagram might help.
Washerless faucets
Washerless faucets, or seat-and-spring faucets, are one of the most common types on a kitchen sink. They’re usually controlled with one handle that mixes the hot and cold water.
Start the repair by determining where the leak is coming from, around the handle or the spout.
If it’s around the handle, you’ll need to tighten the body cap on top of the spout sleeve. Use an allen wrench to remove the handle by loosening the set screw in the handle and pull the handle up.
Then, use a pair of slip-nose pliers to tighten the cap clockwise until the leak stops. Wrap a piece of cloth around the jaws of the pliers to avoid stripping the chrome from the cap. There is also a cap wrench you can buy specifically to remove the cap.
If the leak is coming from the spout, you’ll need to rebuild the faucet. Remove the handle and the cap. Below the cap should be a rubber and nylon cam, followed by a seal, followed by a stainless steel ball with a stem. Pull these out of the spout collar.
Below will be two small rubber seals covering a couple of springs. There will also be a pin (more about that later).
Remove the seals and pull the springs out with a pair of long-nosed pliers. If you already have a repair kit, place the old springs and seals to the side so you don’t get them mixed up with the new parts.
Then, pull up gently on the spout until it comes free of the faucet body. Cut the old O-rings with a knife and put new O-rings in place over the slot at the top and bottom of the faucet body.
Then, place the new springs and seals into the seats, with the flared ends of the seals on top.
Next, put the new ball in the spout, lining the slot in the side of the ball with the pin in the inside of the faucet body. Replace the spout and put the new cam and seal inside the faucet, lining up the tab on the cam with the slot on the top of the spout sleeve.
Finally, tighten the cap and replace the handle.
Cartridge-type faucets
A cartridge-type faucet is another washerless faucet that is similar to a seat-and-spring unit, except it has a core or cartridge instead of a ball.
At the top of the faucet will be a coverplate. Remove it with a knife or screwdriver to expose the handle screw. Loosen the handle screw, lift up the cap and spout sleeve, and look for a brass retaining clip that locks the cartridge in place.
Pull the clip out with a screwdriver or needle-nose pliers, and then remove the cartridge and replace it with a new cartridge. Make sure to align it with the tabs in the faucet body.
Replace the clip and the O-rings below and put the rest of the faucet back together.
Two-handle cartridge
Two-handle cartridge faucets are found mostly in bathrooms but can also be present in kitchen sinks. Start the repair by prying up a cap on the top of one of the handles, loosening the handle screw and removing the handle.
Use a wrench to loosen the locknut above the cartridge. Then lift the cartridge out of the faucet.
Replace it with a new cartridge, making certain it is aligned correctly. Replace and tighten the locknut, put the handle back on and replace the handle screw.
Ceramic disc faucet
A ceramic disc faucet is another variation of a washerless cartridge faucet usually found in kitchen sinks.
Start the repair by removing the handle cap and screw below it. Under the handle will be a valve cap held down by two screws. Remove the screws and cap to expose an adjustment nut.
Remove the adjustment nut with groove-joint pliers. Below is a retaining plate, which can be removed with a screwdriver. Lift the cartridge out with needle-nose pliers. Below that will be the old inlet seals. Remove and replace those with the new parts.
Then insert the new cartridge and rebuild the faucet.
Compression faucet
Compression, or stem and seat, faucets are older units that use washers.
Start the repair on the faucet by removing the cap on top of the handle. Loosen the locking screw and remove the handle.
Underneath will be a packing nut. Remove it with an adjustable wrench and pull the stem up, or turn it counterclockwise by hand.
Turn the packing nut over and replace the washer below with a washer of the same size. It will be held down with a screw.
There will also be packing or an O-ring on the packing nut that can be replaced.
Reinstall all the parts and tighten. Turn on the water and if the leak continues, you have a seat problem. Remove the parts again and use an allen wrench to remove the seats in the faucet body. Replace the seats with new ones and reinstall the remaining parts.
Some seats cannot be removed. This will necessitate refacing the existing seat with a valve seat dresser, available at most hardware stores. You screw the dresser into the faucet until it is flush with the seat and use its cutting edge to grind the surface of the seat.
