Let’s face it, when it comes to entertaining with food and wine at home, anything goes.
The dinner-party formula has changed dramatically over the last quarter-century, bringing us to the exciting but somewhat unnerving place where there are many more “do’s” than “don’t’s” in the unwritten how-to-be-a-successful-hostess manual. We now entertain in whatever clothing suits the weather and our mood, leave the fancy family china and silverware under wraps more often than not, and no longer slavishly base our menus on culinary customs formulated in France or England.
Long gone is the sense of Olympic competition (“My souffle is going to set a new high-rise record,” “I’ll slice those mushrooms finer than a piece of paper”) that led 1960s overachievers to emerge from the kitchen fulfilled but exhausted after spending six or eight hours mastering the art of French cooking with Julia.
Now, with “Beat the Clock” replacing “Strike It Rich” (with calories) as the name of the home-cooking game show, one is able to win as many-or more-kudos by being a smart shopper as by boning a duck or spinning sugar.
In the name of “convenience,” American hostesses can do what their European counterparts have done for years-buy as many elements of the meal as they wish all or partially prepared. Personally, while I never have had a reheated Chinese carryout meal or delivery pizza that I would serve to company, the quality of many items coming from supermarket and specialty store kitchens is excellent.
The menu I have devised reflects the tastes of our times. Since it is dedicated to those who want to do real cooking but-quite sensibly-are equally determined to stop short of being galley slaves, there are a number of shortcuts and timesavers achieved without sacrificing quality.
In the tradition of the sensible household managers of Europe, we will buy the premade fresh pasta at the market and the dessert at a bakery. We also will purchase the cheese straws, frozen chopped clams, basil-flavored olive oil, mango-flavored vinegar, sliced and packaged portabellas, and canned, low-salt chicken broth. For a special occasion, though, fresh herbs should replace dried.
Though this is not a diet meal, it uses only small amounts of oil and cream. The pasta course can be done at the last minute because fresh pasta cooks very quickly. Also, the pasta will absorb the sauce, making a more elegant presentation than the Little Italy versions of this dish.
Depending on available time and whether guests will be in the kitchen with the cook, it is possible to make the following in advance and reheat them: clam sauce, mushrooms, fennel. A second pair of hands can be helpful in assembling the main course, but nothing requires pinpoint timing. Appoint someone to keep the wine glasses filled in your absence.
Notes on the menu:
Aperitifs: The negroni is a trendy drink, perhaps because it is slightly bitter. Sparkling wine is a festive alternative. The cheese straws announce our awareness that the era of the heavy hors d’oeuvres is history. A negroni cocktail is prepared by combining equal amounts (1 1/2 ounces, a “jigger,” will do) of Campari, sweet vermouth and gin or vodka. Add ice, stir and serve on the rocks or straight up garnished with a half-slice of orange or a lemon twist.
First course: Everyone loves Italian. Why fight it? Also, the fresh pasta cooks so fast and absorbs so much of the sauce it tastes strikingly different from restaurant versions of the dish. As for the wine, no need for everyone to be a soloist. Soave is a much-improved product, at least Bolla’s is, and it supports the pasta nicely.
Main course: Easy to orchestrate and well-suited to fall and winter dining, the food is Mediterranean, made in America, while the soft, fruity wine is simply delicious.
Dessert: Too simple? Not at all. Simplicity is the boldest expression of self-confidence.
FRESH-LEEK PASTA WITH WHITE CLAM SAUCE
Four servings
1/4 cup basil olive oil (look for Consorzio brand from California)
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped garlic
1/4 cup chopped parsley, plus 1 tablespoon for garnish
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt, plus 1 tablespoon
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 package (6 1/2 ounces) frozen chopped clams, thawed (Sam’s brand is available at Whole Foods)
12 ounces fresh linguine, preferably made with leeks but plain linguine will be satisfactory
1. Warm oil and garlic in a saucepan over medium-low heat until garlic softens, about 2 minutes. Add 1/4 cup parsley and white wine and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Add lemon juice, 1 teaspoon salt and the pepper, then stir in the clams and their juice. Simmer for 2 minutes, then turn off or remove from heat. (Recipe may be done ahead to this point.) Reheat just before serving.
2. Meanwhile, heat water to a boil in a large pot. Add 1 tablespoon salt, then cook linguine until just soft, about 2 minutes. Drain into a colander, then turn pasta into a bowl. Add hot clam sauce and toss. Garnish with remaining 1 tablespoon parsley. In the kitchen, or at the table, portion into 4 warm shallow bowls.
ROAST PORK TENDERLOIN WITH MUSTARD CREAM SAUCE
Four servings
2 pork tenderloins, about 3/4 pound each
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons Dijon-style mustard
Coarse (kosher) salt, freshly ground pepper to taste
1/2 cup creme fraiche
2 tablespoons mango-flavored vinegar (Consorzio brand)
1. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Line a roasting pan with foil wrap and lightly oil the foil. Rub 1 tablespoon of the mustard all over each of the tenderloins, then season liberally with salt and pepper.
2. Combine creme fraiche, vinegar and remaining 2 teaspoons mustard in a small saucepan. Set aside.
3. Roast tenderloins, turning them once, until cooked through but still juicy, 18 to 20 minutes. (During the final 10 minutes of cooking the pork, cook or reheat mushrooms and fennel; see recipes below.)
4. When tenderloins are done, transfer to a cutting board. Heat cream sauce to a simmer. Carefully remove foil from pan and pour meat juices into the sauce. (Discard the foil and put the still-clean pan away.) Stir and season sauce to taste with salt and pepper.
5. Slice each tenderloin on the bias into 8 pieces. Arrange 4 pieces across the center of a warm plate. Spoon mushrooms on one side and the fennel on the other. Spoon sauce over the meat and sprinkle chopped fennel fronds over all. Repeat with remaining plates and serve at once.
Sauteed portabella mushroom slices: Heat a large skillet, add 1 tablespoon oil and the portabella mushrooms. Cook over brisk heat, turning once or twice, until they give up their juice and begin to wilt. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
MICROWAVE-BRAISED FENNEL AND RED ONION
Four servings
2 medium-size fresh fennel bulbs
1/2 medium red onion
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
1/2 cup chicken broth
1. Cut stalks and base from the fennel bulbs and cut away the tough outer layer of the bulb. Cut each bulb in half, place the cut surface of one on the cutting board and cut into thin slices. Repeat with the other halves.
2. Place the onion half on the board, cut side down, and cut crosswise into thin slices. With your fingers, pull rosemary leaves from the stalks.
3. Spread a layer of sliced fennel in the bottom of a microwave-safe dish. Cover with a layer of onion. Sprinkle on some rosemary. Repeat as necessary, ending with a layer of fennel. Pour in chicken broth, cover the dish with plastic wrap and set aside. (If possible, do this in advance. You may also cook the dish for 6 minutes, if you wish.)
4. Microwave, covered, on high (100 percent) power for 8 minutes. (If partially cooked ahead, heat only until warmed through, about 2 minutes.) Carefully remove plastic wrap and serve.
Resources
P. 20-21: Golden Ribbon Edge stainless-steel flatware by Gorham ($67.99 for 5-piece set), Manhattan Gold by Union Street stemware ($50 per stem), ecru linen hemstitch mats ($10 each) and napkins ($12 each) by Sferra, ribbed gold charger plates by Sasaki ($32 each), Fruit dinnerware by Nikko dinnerware ($140 for 5-piece set), Hanover Gold by Marquis crystal compote ($100), all at Marshall Field’s. Gold half-moon place-card holders ($35 for set of six) and 6-inch linen napkins with gold edges ($18 each), at Branca Boutique. Interior design and furnishings by Fernndez & George Inc.
P. 22: Gold espresso demitasse cup, saucer and spoon set ($48 per set) at Elements. Fruit dinnerware by Nikko ($140 for 5-piece set) at Marshall Field’s.
