No doubt you’ve heard people recommend cooking as “therapy,” as a way to relax, reduce tension and do something useful at the same time-such as producing a meal. But how often have you heard of a therapist sending himself into the kitchen?
Dr. Howard Alt, a practicing psychiatrist who teaches at Northwestern University Medical Center, began cooking as a boy and grew up to be a passionate amateur who cooks for family and friends whenever possible.
The story doesn’t stop there, however. So involved has he become (though the involvement stops well short of obsession, he says with the certitude of a man who knows the definition of obsession) that he can be found most Fridays working in the kitchen of Charlie Trotter’s restaurant. On Sundays at certain times of the year, he is likely to be in his Evanston home kitchen, teaching a monthly class he calls “The Art of Cooking.”
The course is for “the serious cook,” with topics such as stocks and sauces and the cuisine of various master chefs included along with an introduction to setting up a kitchen, basic ingredients and basic cooking methods. But Dr. Alt also keeps the mind in mind. He wants his students to reach a point where “the reliance on recipes is relaxed and the joy of creative play in the kitchen is realized”-in other words, to have fun.
One sign that he is having fun is the pleasure he takes in experimenting outside the classic French repertory. The two homespun recipes that follow evolved in his kitchen over a period of time. They are well-suited to the goal of encouraging social interchange, or, in layman’s language, you’ll want to have a party so lots of people can enjoy them. For further information about Dr. Alt’s classes, call 708-869-1331.
HOWARD ALT’S POTATO PIZZA
12 to 16 servings
1 package (1 tablespoon) dry yeast
1 teaspoon honey
2 1/2 to 3 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium potatoes
2 cloves garlic
Cornmeal
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste
1. Prepare the dough: Combine the yeast, honey and 1/4 cup warm water and wait for the yeast to proof (bubble).
2. Combine 2 1/2 cups flour, salt and 1 teaspoon olive oil in a mixer equipped with a dough hook. Add the yeast mixture and mix at medium speed. Add an additional 1/2 cup of warm water and continue mixing until a ball forms on the dough hook and the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Add remaining flour as needed if mixture is too moist.
3. Turn dough onto a floured surface and knead for 5 minutes. Lightly oil a mixing bowl. Form the dough into a ball, place in the bowl, turn to coat the entire surface with oil from the bowl, then cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
4. Remove the risen dough from the bowl, punch it down and knead for 3 to 4 minutes. Divide dough in half. Form each half into a ball, cover with a towel and allow to rise on the floured surface for 30 minutes.
5. Peel potatoes and cut them crosswise into 1/8-inch slices. Peel and slice the garlic. Combine potatoes, garlic and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a bowl. Heat oven to 525 degrees.
6. Roll out each dough ball to a thin circle about 14 inches in diameter. Place the dough onto a pizza peel or sheet pan sprinkled with cornmeal. Spread a thin coating of olive oil over each crust and top this with a single layer of the potato-garlic mixture. Sprinkle the Parmesan evenly over the top of both pizzas and season to taste with salt and pepper.
7. Bake pizzas for 12 to 15 minutes, or until potatoes and dough are brown and crisp. Serve at once.
Note: Dr. Alt suggests adding caramelized onions (prepared by cooking a large onion, finely sliced, in olive oil over low heat until softened and brown, about 20 minutes). Layer onions on dough before adding potatoes and cheese.
DR. A’S JAMBALAYA
About 12 servings
1 1/2 pounds andouille or kielbasa sausage
1 pound tasso or lean smoked ham, cubed
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 cups diced yellow onion
2 cups diced celery
1 1/2 cups diced green bell pepper
2 tablespoons dried basil
1 tablespoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried oregano
3 bay leaves
1 teaspoon cayenne
10 black peppercorns
5 allspice berries
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon each ground black and white pepper
3 cloves garlic, diced
3 cans (16 ounces each) plum tomatoes
2 quarts rich chicken stock
2 quarts canned clam juice or broth made from fish bouillon cubes, Knorr brand preferred
15 whole unshelled shrimp with heads on* (optional)
Optional additions: rind (orange part only) from 1/4 orange, 1 head garlic sliced in half, 6 drops Angostura bitters, 1 tablespoon tomato paste, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon sugar, 3 drops liquid smoke
3 cups long-grain rice
4 green onions, thinly sliced
1 pound peeled, deveined shrimp
1 pound sea scallops
1 pound shucked oysters with their liquor
* Available in Oriental markets
1. Slice the sausage into 1-inch pieces and saute in a large casserole or pot with an 8-quart capacity on medium-high heat until dark brown. Add the ham and brown it as well. (Stir frequently and be careful not to burn the meat.)
2. Add 1 tablespoon oil, the onions, celery and green pepper and saute on high heat, stirring frequently, until browned.
3. Add the dried herbs, cayenne, peppercorns, allspice, salt, black and white pepper and and cook for 3 minutes over medium-high heat, scraping the bottom of the pan frequently. Add the diced garlic and saute 2 minutes longer.
4. Drain and seed the tomatoes and squeeze through your hands into a bowl. Add to the pot and saute until juices evaporate. Add the chicken stock, clam juice and optional unshelled shrimp. Lower heat to a simmer and cook for 1 1/2 hours.
5. During cooking, add some or all of the optional ingredients, tasting and altering amounts to suit your taste.
6. After 1 1/2 hours, remove the whole shrimp and discard. Add the rice and simmer until cooked, about 20 minutes. Add the green onions, peeled shrimp, scallops and oysters with their juices. Stir and cook a few more minutes until seafood is firm. Adjust seasoning with salt and hot sauce, if desired, and serve in bowls. It will be soupier than traditional jambalaya.
