If you’re like a lot of us, about this time of the year you’ll start to notice that summer’s warm breezes have been replaced by icy drafts–most notably those coming from around your entry door.
In fact, were you among the legions who last winter propped throw rugs against the bottom of your front and back doors to slow down those frigid gusts? Maybe it’s time to remedy the problem, starting with the often-disregarded storm door.
In addition to providing a wind block, a well-functioning storm door also establishes a dead air space between itself and the entry door, creating insulation against infiltration. It also protects an entry door from rain, snow and the sun’s rays.
During the warm months, a storm door also keeps cool air in and warm air out of a house. Or, you can usually remove the glass panel on the door and replace it with a screen, even storing the screen inside the door panel much like on a storm window.
It’s pretty clear by now that storm doors can be a big help against hefty utility bills, especially on older, draftier homes. As a result, storm doors can pay for themselves in a year or so.
And storm doors are fairly easy to install, too.
“This is one project that do-it-yourselfers should have little trouble with,” says Ken Gawlik, a home improvement specialist with the Home Depot store in Darien.
Many homes can be outfitted with a “pre-hung” storm door unit that can often be purchased off the shelf at many home improvement stores. Odd-shaped entryways, however, will require custom storm doors, which can cost more money than the off-the-shelf units.
For those concerned about aesthetics, the off-the-shelf choices of door colors and designs have grown over the last few years. There are often as many as a dozen or so choices. In addition to the popular pre-finished aluminum and vinyl or heavy plastic units, there are also natural wood storm doors available that can be stained or painted.
First, prepare
Before the actual installation, the first step is to accurately measure the door opening. If an existing storm door is in place, remove it and any trim that goes with it.
Then, measure the door opening from inside the jambs. Don’t measure the existing door. “The biggest problems do-it-yourselfers face with installing storm doors is not measuring correctly,” says Gawlik.
Start by measuring from the threshold below to the door top, on both sides of the door. Vertically, measure three times–at the top, middle and bottom of the door opening.
The measurements will tell you which specific door size to buy. “Your measurements will also tell you if the door is `square,’ ” says Gawlik. “If it’s not, that may require ordering a custom door to fit the opening.”
Also, note which way the storm door should open. Sometimes, porch railings, windows, walls or other doors mandate that a door swings open only to the right or left. That will determine whether you buy a right-handed or left-handed door.
Finally, take note of the trim in the door opening. There usually needs to be at least one inch of flat surface on the surrounding jambs–also known as brick moulds–for a new storm door to be mounted correctly.
If there’s not, you may need to remove some of the trim. Or, you may need to install small wood strips to level out the surface.
Installation
Start the installation by holding the door up to the opening to check its fit. Next, install the rain cap centrally above the door, positioning it to the height recommended by the manufacturer above the threshold. Use only one screw to attach the rain cap so that it can be easily adjusted.
Now, accurately measure the distance between the bottom of the rain cap and the top of the threshold or door sill.
Then find the Z-bar, also known as the hinge-side mounting flange, and use a hacksaw to cut the piece to fit the opening between the rain cap and threshold. When cutting the various trim pieces, be careful not to damage the attached weatherstripping.
Sometimes, the door comes attached to the hinge flange. The flange will still be oversized, however, requiring some cutting with a hacksaw.
Attach the cut Z-bar to the side of the opening with one screw at the top hole. Then, use a level to make sure it’s plumb. Install the additional screws to the Z-bar to attach it in place.
“Try to keep the pieces as level as possible, although some degree of adjustment is allowed with storm doors,” says Gawlik. “The doorway would really have to be out of kilter for it to look that bad.”
Then, hang the door on the Z-bar if it’s unattached.
Next, rehang the rain cap, attaching the additional screws. Measure the space between the bottom of the rain cap and the top of the threshold opposite of the hinge-side of the door. This is where the latch-side mounting flange or Z-bar will be placed.
Use the hacksaw to cut the latch side Z-bar to the specific length and attach it to the doorway. Make sure the door closes snugly before fastening the Z-bar and use a level to keep it plumb.
You may also need to leave a small gap to allow for expansion and contraction of the door during the cold and hot months. Check with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Once all three pieces of trim are installed, run a bead of caulk along the back sides of the vertical Z-bars and the horizontal rain cap, sealing any gaps between those and the house.
Attach the adjustable door sweep to the bottom of the door. Make sure it seals the door snugly but does not drag across the floor.
Next, install the lock assembly and door knob through the usually pre-drilled holes on the door. You may also need to drill your own holes into the door. The lock and door knob should be secured to the door with provided screws from the inside.
Then, screw the unit’s strike plate to the door jamb so that it properly grasps the door knob and holds the door closed when shut.
Next, you’ll need to install the automatic closer. Start by attaching the jamb bracket a few inches from the top of the jamb. Next, there will be a door bracket that needs to be screwed to the inside top of the door. Then, attach the hydraulic closer cylinder to the door and jamb brackets with the provided locking pins.
Test the door to see how well it closes by itself. If it closes too quickly and slams, turn the setscrew at the end of the closer clockwise to slow it down. Turn it counterclockwise if the door takes too long to close, or doesn’t close all the way.
Once the door is installed, it will require only periodic maintenance. Occasionally wipe down the door to prevent a dirt buildup, spray a light coat of silicone lubricant on the hydraulic closer and tighten any screws that come loose.
“With a little care, storm doors can last a long time,” says Gawlik. “In fact, people usually tire of them aesthetically before they wear out.”
