A gift that measures up
Perhaps it’s because I am a Libra that I love scales–the kind for the kitchen, not the bathroom. I have three at home now–a small spring scale perfect for weighing nuts and seeds, a beam scale I like for assessing the exact weight of a roast, and an electronic scale that is my constant companion when I bake.
Whatever scale is on my gift-giving list for fellow cooks, it must be accurate and easy to read so the recipient will use it. Once a cook gets in the habit of using a scale, its value becomes immeasurable. Using foods purchased in bulk, such as chocolate and nuts, accurately (and easily) measuring flour and weighing yeast dough to ensure the same size loaves: These are just some of the uses.
A good scale also can serve non-food purposes. One of the editors at the Tribune regularly weighs books on our scale just to prove a point of size. Even-steven divisions of candy between siblings (or spouses) frequently have been confirmed with the help of a scale.
Chef’s Catalog and Williams-Sonoma offer a variety of scales. For a wonderfully whimsical scale, the Museum of Modern Art New York Design Store carries “Molly,” designed by Stefano Giovannoni for the Alessi company in Italy. This is one scale (or should we say piece of art?) you won’t want to hide away in a cupboard. It can weigh up to 2 kilograms (4.4 pounds) of food with a precision of more or less 10 grams. After weighing you can easily remove the top of the scale to pour out the contents. A conversion chart from metric is included. The Alessi scale, in blue or green, costs $150 and is currently available by mail-order only. Call the museum at 212-708-9888. Two-day shipping costs an additional $32; regular UPS shipping (seven to 10 days) costs $12. It will be available at Chiasso in February.
– JeanMarie Brownson.
HOLIDAY WISH GONE TO POT
All I want for Christmas is the same thing I wanted last Christmas: a brand-new edition of my favorite cooking pot.
As pots go, my ideal is nothing special. It’s a Mirro, made of aluminum, with stainless-steel loop handles that get very hot and stay that way even after the heat is turned off.
Furthermore, after at least 15 years of hard labor, it’s chipped, worn and tired.
So why hasn’t it been discarded? Because its dimensions, a 10 1/2-inch diameter and 3 3/4-inch depth, plus its light weight, make it the most utilitarian object in my kitchen.
This pot is perfect for everything from boiling long, flat pasta to braising a stew to poaching or steaming all manner of vegetables.
So why hasn’t it been replaced?
Because in scouting cookware shops and department-store housewares departments during the last few years, I’d never found another pot with similar dimensions. Mirro doesn’t make this kind of pot anymore, according to its customer service department.
But recently a colleague spotted something smart and sleek, a new stainless-steel item from Cuisinart. The loop handles are gracefully curved, the non-stick, multilayer system promises “a rugged, stick-free cooking surface.”
It also costs $150. The pan, at 9 by 2 3/4 inches, also wasn’t long enough for my pasta, nor deep enough for a steamer basket of broccoli florets. There is an 11-inch size, but it costs $175. Oh, why didn’t I buy two Mirros 15 years ago and put one in storage?
– William Rice.
FOR MY VIEWING PLEASURE
Dear Santa:
Nothing is worse than having onions and garlic carbonize in the bottom of a pan while you’re in the other room watching the Bears get intercepted.
That’s why I absolutely need a small television for the kitchen, one that’s out of the way but visible from every angle and has one of those built-in VCRs. That way I can watch a Julia Child instructional tape or just slip in a good movie while I’m getting dinner. (I promise never to switch on “Married With Children.”)
Also, could you make it a 13-inch diagonal screen, so squinting won’t be necessary? Plus it’s got to have a remote, preferably one that can be operated with an elbow when my mitts are full of grease or dough.
And, Santa, if you don’t mind a little coaching, there are some great selections at Best Buy that run from $280 to almost $400. They all fill the bill, though the white Quasar model for $350 would match the decor. Wall or ceiling mounting brackets are an extra $40 or $50, respectively, but they keep the TV out of the way and allow it to be turned to almost any angle. I promise to install them myself.
P.S. If that’s a little out of your price range, could you bring me a stainless-steel pastry scraper (Edward Don Outlets, $3.99)? I need it for scooping up chopped vegetables from the counter, and burned onions from the bottom of the pan.
Your friend and unwavering believer,
– Steven Pratt.
FEEDING A CAFFEINE FRENZY
For a long time, kitchen gifts were anathema at Christmas. A toaster from a boyfriend surely meant it would be the last time we toasted each other with eggnog, and Lord help the sister who came bearing a sifter.
Age has softened that stance. While I’m not ready to gracefully accept a Salad Shooter or, for that matter, anything demonstrated by a ginzu on late-night TV, I cherish things that make the pursuit of food more fun.
A few things would surprise and delight me. For one, an espresso-maker. I’ve already owned and discarded two, one a stove-top gizmo, the other a sleek, high-tech electric number. It hissed at me in the morning and I hissed back until I gladly donated it to the thrift shop.
But I was ahead of myself. Espresso-makers and I didn’t jibe then, so I reserved the pleasure of cappuccinos and espressos for dinners out or coffee shops. Now, firmly in the grip of addiction, it’s time to find the tools to feed this frenzy.
I look longingly at Estro Vapore (also labeled Saeco, depending on where it’s sold), a nifty Italian number. Outfitted with a filter-holder that virtually anyone can use, it’s idiot-proof. The espresso that drips into my porcelain cup is sure to be thick, rich and aromatic, capped off with velvety, tan crema that’s the crowning glory of espresso. But, alas, at around $250, this gift will have to come from a Santa with deep pockets who realizes just how good I’ve been.
– Pat Dailey
THE SIMPLE FOOD PROCESSOR
I’m simple-minded: The simpler a tool is, the more I use it. Hence my desire for a heavy-duty box grater.
My kitchen doesn’t have room for a food processor to park permanently on the counter, and in the time it would take to dig the machine out of the cupboard, assemble it and wash up afterward, a box grater can slice apples, potatoes or cabbage, grate cheese or scrub the zest off a lemon. In a two-person household, the grater is often the most efficient choice.
The standard box grater with the sloped sides has a few disadvantages, though. Most are flimsy and discolor, even rust, eventually. Also, they aren’t wide enough, so you end up scraping at the interior with a knife to get all the cheese shreds, for instance, or banging it on the counter instead of simply sticking your hand up there.
This stainless-steel number from Traex ($10.50 at Royal Industries, 538 N. Milwaukee Ave.) is 4 inches across, which, in addition to improving access, widens the slicing side. The crinkle-cut texture on another side is handy for zesting citrus, though the result is coarser than the finest shreds my cheapo grater can produce. The steel is about 1/16th-inch thick, making a much sturdier unit.
You still have to watch out for your knuckles, though.
– Andy Badeker
COVETING WOODEN ANTIQUES
Wooden utensils hardly seem like a gift of great and lasting delight, but for me they can be.
Last summer, I was given a near-perfect gift, a very old pasta tester, crudely but lovingly hand-whittled to a satiny texture from a single piece of wood. It came from a dusty box of kitchen gadgets at an antiques store and cost all of $1. Its worth to me? Priceless, for a lot of reasons.
It reflects my enchantment with found objects and also celebrates quality, craftsmanship, utility, design–and clearly, love of food–things that too often are passed over.
Because I oohed and aahed so much, I’ve since been given several other wooden pieces that delight me endlessly. An ebony sugar spoon with a sinuous shape. A whimsical set of salad servers. And the perfect pair of spoons for playing spoons.
A final note for anyone shopping for me: I’ve been very good this year, and a fast, red convertible surely would make the pursuit of food more fun too.
– Pat Dailey
ALL WRAPPED UP AND READY TO COOK
Cleanliness does not always accompany my cooking. The counters, stove top and occasionally the cat need to be scrubbed and scoured after a bout with a big meal.
Thus, an apron is in order–at least I can protect my clothing from spills and splatters.
Because I want maximum protection, I would like an apron with a bib. It’s also important to look beyond the surface design for a sturdy apron that can be tossed into the washer and dryer. Wash-and-wear fabric also is a must. (I have no intention of involving an iron in my cooking plans.)
Chefware makes a variety of aprons that meet those requirements. The one pictured here, “Tropical Fish,” will look great hanging in the kitchen, and the menagerie of bright, bold colors will camouflage spots in case my dinner guests show up early.
It also has an adjustable neck strap, and long ties so I can wrap it around, tie it in front and tuck a towel at my waist. The front pocket lets me store important tools, such as thermometers, mixing spoons and potholders.
This apron costs $16 and is available at Chefware and Robert Adrian stores in Chicago, as well as the Edward Don Outlets in Chicago and Naperville.
Now all I need is an apron for the cat.
– Renee Enna
FROM OUR COVER …
TEMPERATURE IN AN INSTANT
Roasting, they say, is coming back into vogue after years of neglect by trendy cooks. Hooray, I say. Nothing appeals more than the aromas of roasting beef, pork or poultry.
The surest way, however, to tell when that roast is done is with a thermometer. It’s an indispensable tool in my kitchen, and it would make the perfect stocking stuffer for those members of my family who rely on the guess-and-slice method.
The best thermometer is the instant-read type. Barbara Kafka agrees in her new book, “Roasting: A Simple Art.”
“Don’t get a thermometer that tells what well-done or rare is, as the markings are invariably wrong,” she writes. They err on the side of overcooking.
The instant-read, however, can quickly check many places in the roast for a more accurate reading. It is inserted and then left in about 10 seconds to register. But don’t leave the thermometer in for the whole cooking time, or you’ll have melted plastic all over your roast beef!
Good brands to buy are Taylor or Insta-Read. Their small thermometers come in a case with a clip, so you can stick it in an apron pocket if you like. They sell for $10 to $15 at most fine cookware shops.
– Carol Mighton Haddix
ON THE CUTTING EDGE
After years of helping cook holiday meals with all of the relatives, I’ve learned what they need in their kitchens: a good, large knife.
Small paring knives are fine for peeling foods, but when it comes to chopping, dicing and mincing, an 8- to 10-inch chef’s knife can’t be beat.
A good knife is heavy. Kept sharp, it offers more control and safety than a lightweight knife. It is sturdy, with triple rivets or a permanent bonding that attaches the full-length blade to the handle. And it should have a heavy bolster, the portion of metal that protects your hand from the edge of the blade.
Most people prefer high-carbon stainless steel. It doesn’t stain or react with foods like plain carbon steel knives do.
Such knives are expensive, but consider it an investment. A good knife can last 20 to 30 years. My favorite brands are Wusthof-Trident and Henckel.
Because these knives are often found on sale, usually 20 percent off, you can find an 8-inch chef’s knife for about $75. Look for them in cutlery shops such as Otto Pomper in Chicago, Corrado Cutlery in Chicago and Skokie, and in most department and cookware stores.
– Carol Mighton Haddix
A POT WITH SPACE TO SPARE
Why, in a world of fragrance, Beatles paraphernalia and the ever-expanding world of chia, do I want a stockpot for Christmas? I’ll tell you why. I’m tired of cramming large stalks of vermicelli into a 3-quart saucepan. You have to stick them in, wait till the submerged part softens, then tease the bundle with a spoon till it winds its way down.
Snap it half, you say? In my family, it just isn’t done.
Confine myself to shells and mostaccioli? Pasta being the mainstay of my diet, I need variety where I can find it.
Use the Dutch oven? Nice idea, but then where do I put the pasta sauce?
That’s why I want a roomy 8-quart stainless-steel stockpot, perfect for cooking any size and quantity of pasta, not to mention soup and stew. Farberware’s Millennium 8-quart stockpot fills the bill. It is not only beautiful, it’s non-stick too. Better yet, it’s sold in a set with a pasta insert to make draining a breeze and cleaning a snap. Chef’s Catalog sells the set for $100.
For those content to stick with shells and mostaccioli, a multisteamer insert to fit 2- to 4-quart pans costs $35 at Chef’s Catalog and Marshall Field’s.
– Renee Enna
SMART TARTS
For years, I have struggled to make all the pretty miniature pastries I’ve seen in cookbooks with my fancy tin tart pans purchased on a memorable trip to Paris. But it seemed no matter how well I greased the pans I could never unmold the tarts without tearing their edges.
When cookbook author and teacher Nick Malgieri visited the Tribune test kitchen, I experienced a case of “cook’s envy.” He made the most picture-perfect caramel pear tarts that I had ever seen. The secret, I learned, was a combination of a nice pastry recipe and non-stick tart pans with removable bottoms.
The little pans, about 4 inches in diameter, are big enough to line easily with dough, and the edges are sharp enough that a quick swipe across the top with the rolling pin cuts loose the excess dough for a pretty finish.
The pans, made in France, are carried at Williams-Sonoma for $4.50 each. I am thinking a set of eight sounds just about right for miniature quiches for an elegant New Year’s Day brunch. Hmmm. I hope Santa comes through.
– JeanMarie Brownson
