Royal Khyber Restaurant puts more emphasis on its chefs than its interior decorators. The dining room consists of 11 tables and 42 standard-issue chairs–a utilitarian approach that contrasts sharply to the blitz of aroma, color and flavor of the food.
From appetizer through dessert, the North Indian and Pakistani cuisine wields its magic. The fare is almost uniformly hot, but diners who prefer their food mild-mannered need only make their request when ordering.
Start with the Royal Basket ($5.50), an assortment of appetizers: samosa (pastry pockets filled with potato and beef, as well as lamb); pakora (vegetable fritters); shami kebab (lamb patties blended with lentils and onions); and chicken tikka (delectable, orange-red chunks of chicken marinated in spices with yogurt and roasted in a clay oven. The basket is accompanied by two sauces, both excellent: tamarind, a sweet yet tangy plumlike sauce; and green chutney.
Twelve Indian breads are offered. Royal naan ($2.50), a large slab baked in a tandoor oven, has a distinctive texture and melds beautifully with the spicier dishes. Also delectable is the onion naan, accented with homemade cheese.
The soups make for a great kickoff, too–none better than the mulligatawny ($1.95). A traditional Indian soup of pureed lentils with rice and bits of chicken, this delicious, lightly seasoned soup goes down smoothly. The tomato soup ($1.95) gets a hot kick from cilantro.
Save room for the entrees. Main dishes are numerous on the restaurant’s eight-page menu, with a focus on chicken, lamb and vegetarian dishes.
Malai seekh kebab ($6.50), chunks of lamb grilled with ginger, green chilies, garlic, coriander and onion, packs a heat punch. Beautifully presented on a platter, the lamb is perfectly cooked, the seasonings expertly blended.
An almond and saffron gravy lends a pungently pleasing accent to boneless pieces of chicken in the murg zaffrani ($6.50).
If you want variety, head for the buffet, offered for lunch and dinner. The dinner buffet, at $7.95 (lunch is $5.95), includes about six hot entrees, rice, fresh salad fixings, bread and choice of dessert. Included in the buffet price, tandoori chicken can be brought to the table from the kitchen.
Desserts deliver a sweet break from the spice. Gulab jamun ($2), deep-fried balls of dough soaked in sugar syrup, are a delightful cross between doughnuts and baklava. Gajjar halwa ($2), a combination of milk, finely grated carrots and sugar topped with nuts, has the appearance and texture of rice pudding, and its soothing, understated sweetness as well.
If you’re too full for dessert–a genuine possibility–at least try the lassi ($2.50), a frothy white drink that blends yogurt with mango and pineapple.
Service on a quiet Sunday evening proved excellent. Our waiter was attentive without being overbearing.
Royal Khyber Restaurant
(three forks)
1135 N. Salem Dr. (in Salem Plaza, off Golf Rd.)
708-882-4455
11:30 – 9:30 p.m. Sun. – Thurs.; 11:30 – 10:30 p.m Fri. – Sat. Wheelchair accessible
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
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RATINGS KEY: 4 forks: Top of the class 3 forks: Better than most 2 forks: Very good fare 1 fork: Middle of the road
