Rich, juicy, flavorful beef steak has long been a symbol of pleasure and affluence. But dietary restrictions sharply cut the consumption of red meat early in this decade. Now, as Americans react against those restraints, thick steaks once again are being grilled on patios and served in steakhouses in record numbers.
According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, post-World War II beef consumption peaked at 74.7 pounds per capita in 1985, shrank to 61.5 pounds in 1993 and has been climbing since, reaching 64.6 pounds last year. Meanwhile steakhouse patronage has been climbing at double-digit figures yearly.
Steak has long been considered “men’s food,” but unlike quiche and other foods real men consume, the American male is willing, even eager, to prepare his own steak. According to a survey by grill manufacturer Weber-Stephen of Palatine, men do all the grilling, or share the task, in more than 80 percent of America’s barbecue-equipped homes.
So, dads, in anticipation of what many of you will be doing on Sunday, Father’s Day, this one’s for you: a market-to-plate primer for buying and cooking steak.
Quality
Most beef is graded for quality by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. This is a voluntary process with standards that anger some consumer activists because the key factor in determining quality is marbling, or the ratio of fat to lean. Meat with the highest fat (and cholesterol) content is graded “USDA prime,” meaning best, because the fat makes a steak juicier and more tender. Next comes “choice,” then “select,” plus five other USDA grades rarely seen in markets.
Producers who intentionally raise leaner cattle may choose to skip the grading ritual but, depending on what the cattle were fed, may call their steaks “natural,” “lean” or “range-fed.”
In steak restaurants much is made of the terms “prime” and “aged.” But only 1 percent of American beef reaches the prime category and very little of it is sold to supermarkets. Prime steaks can be purchased frozen by mail order, however.
“Dry-aged” steak (cut from sides of beef that are hung in refrigerators for two to four weeks, where they shrink considerably) is very hard to find even in restaurants. Some markets will hold back–or have the packer hold back–vacuum-packaged beef, a process called “wet aging.”
Traditionalists insist that dry aging gives steak a deeper, more complex taste and firmer texture. Those who opt for the more cost-effective wet aging say consumers prefer its less pronounced taste and softer texture.
Safety
The first concern of any consumer should be the condition of the meat. In searching through packaged steaks in the display counter, avoid packages that are torn, contain excessive juices or are not cold, as well as steaks that have brown or gray patches. Also check the “sell by” date on any package you choose.
With an oversupply of cattle, beef prices have been very reasonable. Prices at a Dominick’s market last week for select grade ranged from $6.49 a pound for porterhouse to $4.29 for skirt, $2.69 for sirloin tip, $2.59 for chuck shoulder and $2.49 for top sirloin.
Shopping for steak
The National Cattlemen’s Beef Association lists more than 150 cuts in its Uniform Retail Meat Identity Standards. Almost 60 of them are steaks. Although you won’t find them all in any one supermarket, 19 different cuts were counted in a Jewel meat case last week.
Amount to buy
Overconsumption of steak by cowpokes and conventioneers is the stuff of legends. It’s also not a sensible way to eat.
If you choose to serve whole steaks to individual diners, the minimum portions are likely to range from 6 ounces for a filet mignon to 12 ounces or more for a sirloin, T-bone or ribeye. The best way to limit portions is to thinly slice the cooked meat.
Arranged on a plate and accompanied by vegetables, as little as 4 ounces of sliced, cooked steak will provide an ample portion. If you slice the meat, a pound of boneless steak will yield three or four servings, while a 1-pound bone-in steak will serve two or three diners. Therefore steaks such as flank and skirt, quick-cooking and easiest to chew when cut into thin strips, are ideal for group entertaining. Their popularity has lifted them out of the bargain-price category, however.
Storing steak
At home, you can freeze steak, but, as any butcher will warn you, do not to try to age beef at home. Keep steaks refrigerated until shortly before cooking them. (The cattlemen’s association recommends cooking steak directly from the refrigerator to avoid exposure to bacteria. This will increase conventional cooking times.)
William Rice has compiled a collection of recipes for steaks, side dishes and desserts in “A Steak Lover’s Cookbook” (Workman, $23.95 hardcover, $13.95 paperback), to be published in October.
THE CUTS
Butchers cut a steer into nine large wholesale cuts that yield steaks (and roasts).
The most tender of these are the rib and the loin, located on the back and sides of the animal.
Retail cuts from the rib include rib and ribeye (sometimes called Delmonico) steaks. The loin is subdivided into New York or Kansas City strip steaks, filet mignons (cut from the tenderloin) and various sirloins. T-bone and porterhouse steaks are part tenderloin (the smaller side) and part strip with a bone between. These are the luxury cuts, pampered and pricey, requiring little or no preparation before cooking.
Less tender but often more flavorful cuts are carved from the front shoulder (source of a variety of chuck steaks) and the rump and back legs (round steaks). Also in this category are skirt and flank steaks, which come from below the ribs and loin. The steaks in this second category usually benefit from some form of tenderizing before cooking.
Types of cuts:
Top sirloin butt:
The butt is a favorite of steak-lovers who like juicy, flavorful steak with texture. It’s a good choice for the outdoor grill and also can be broiled or pan-fried.
Boneless chuck shoulder:
Chuck is among the most flavorful of beef cuts. Sometimes called London broil, this steak from the top forequarter needs to be marinated before being grilled or broiled. It also may be braised or stewed.
Porterhouse:
Among the most prized steaks, porterhouse is considered an epicure’s delight because it contains meat from the top loin (source of strip steak) and tenderloin (source of filet mignon). The T-shaped bone that separates them inspired the name of the similar, but smaller, T-bone steak. Broil, grill or pan-fry these cuts.
Tri-tip:
An increasingly popular steak and considered a very good value, the tri-tip is cut from the bottom sirloin. It is tender enough to be broiled, grilled or pan-fried without being marinated.
COOKING STEAK
Steak is cooked for several reasons, among them to enhance the flavor, to make it easier to chew and digest and to kill bacteria. Bacteria found on the surface of a steak cannot penetrate to the center, which means it is safe to serve steak that is pink in the center. (Ground beef, on the other hand, may contain bacteria throughout and must be completely cooked.)
Yet overcooking has been cited as the most common mistake in preparing steak. An overcooked steak is a dry steak and, because flavor evaporates with the juices, a boring steak.
With only a few minutes, at most, between cooked and overcooked, the novice steak cook might well feel tense. After all, it is impractical to use a meat thermometer on any but the thickest steaks, while a raft of variables (such as how long an oven has been heated or wind blowing over an outdoor grill) makes recommended cooking times no more than approximations.
To counter uncertainty, keep the following in mind:
When blood-red dots or “tears” appear on the surface of a steak being grilled or pan-fried, it has reached the rare stage and should be turned. Cook it an equal amount of time on the second side and turn it back briefly for medium-rare. Cook it a minute or so longer on the second side and turn it back briefly for medium.
A more tactile method is to press your finger into the cooked side of the steak. If it feels soft and spongy, it is rare. If the meat is firm with only a minimum of give, it has reached medium.
To learn what medium-rare feels like, stretch out one hand, then push the index finger of the other hand into the triangle of flesh between the thumb and forefinger. It will be slightly resistant and springy. So will a medium-rare steak.
Grilling
With sophisticated equipment, grilling is a cinch today. Steaks such as sirloin and filet take well to grilling, as do flank and skirt.
Rub unmarinated steaks lightly with vegetable or olive oil and cook directly over the coals. If a steak is thicker than 1 1/4 inches, fatty, or coated with an oily marinade, consider cooking it over indirect heat with the cover on.
Pan-frying or pan-broiling
Cooks who lack an outdoor grill but have a good exhaust system or lots of windows in the kitchen can produce deliciously crusty steaks by using a ridged grill pan or cast-iron skillet on the stove. Lightly coat the steak with oil and cook over high heat. Season with salt and pepper only after turning. To pan-fry, coat the pan with oil. To pan-broil, just add the meat to the hot pan.
Broiling
Restaurant professionals point out that home broilers cannot give off the same searing high temperatures as professional equipment, which may reach 800 degrees. That’s true, but steaks no more than an inch thick can be broiled satisfactorily at home, if placed about 3 inches from the source of heat.
When cooking steaks 1 1/2 or more inches thick, sear both sides in a cast-iron pan on the stove, then put the steak in a 400-degree oven to roast.
Stir-frying
Less tender cuts such as flank and round steak can be cut into strips, marinated, then tossed in a hot wok or frying pan with a small amount of oil and combined with vegetables and noodles.
Braising
Less tender cuts, especially chuck, respond very well to slow cooking in broth flavored with herbs and spices. The meat is browned, broth is added (not enough to cover the meat, however), and the meat is cooked, tightly covered, just below a simmer, until very tender. This is a longer process than stewing.
TIMING IT RIGHT
The following chart is a guide to judging meat for doneness. When the cooking time listed is reached, the steak should be at or near themedium-rare stage.
Times are based on using steaks at or near room temperature, a heated broiler or pan, and placing the meat 3 inches from a broiler flame or 4 inches from coals. Steaks should be turned over halfway through the time period. Add 1 to 2 minutes for medium, subtract 1 to 2 minutes for rare.
In general, it is best to pan-broil or pan-fry steaks cut 3/4-inch thick or less, and broil or grill steaks 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick. Thicker steaks can be seared on both sides, then baked or roasted in a 425-degree oven or covered kettle grill.
Steak cooking times in minutes %%
Thickness 1/2 inch 1/3 inch 1 inch 1 1/2 inches
Broil 6-7 8-9 10-12 15-18
Pan-broil or pan-fry 5-6 7-8 9-11 X
Grill 5 7 9-10 14-15
Roast
(at 425 after seasoning) X X X 18-20
%%
PORTERHOUSE STEAK WITH CORN-TOMATO SALSA
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Resting time: 1 to 2 hours
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Yield: 3 to 4 servings
Serve this with sauteed or fried onion rings on the side.
Salsa:
2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
2 large ripe tomatoes, seeded, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/3 cup each, peeled, diced: jicama, onion
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
1/4 to 1/3 cup fresh lime juice to taste
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
Steak:
1 porterhouse steak, 1 inch thick, about 1 1/2 pounds
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt, pepper to taste
1. For salsa, heat water to boil in small saucepan over medium heat. Add corn; simmer 2 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water; drain again. Pat corn dry with paper towels.
2. Mix corn, tomatoes, jicama, onion, cilantro, lime juice, cumin, jalapeno, garlic and salt in a bowl. Cover and set aside 1 to 2 hours.
3. Remove steak from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before cooking. Rub lightly with oil.
4. Heat a heavy skillet, preferably cast-iron, over medium-high heat until very hot. Add steak to pan and cook over medium heat until drops of blood appear on the upper surface, about 5 minutes. Turn steak, season with salt and pepper; cook 5 minutes longer. Test for doneness by pressing the meat. If necessary, turn steak again and cook 2 to 3 minutes for medium rare or 3 to 4 minutes for medium.
5. Transfer the steak to a cutting board; let rest 5 minutes. Cut sirloin and tenderloin from the bone; cut sirloin crosswise into 1/2-inch slices and the tenderloin into 1/4-inch slices. Portion some of each onto warm plates. Serve with corn-tomato salsa.
Nutrition information per serving (based on 3
Calories ……….430 Fat………….. 22 g Cholesterol…….. 80 mg
Sodium……… 455 mg Carbohydrates…. 29 g Protein…………..33 g
SPICY BRAISED STEAK WITH PAN GRAVY
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 45 to 55 minutes
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
1 boneless chuck steak,cut 1 1/2 inches thick, about 3 pounds
2 teaspoons blackening spice, such as Cajun Magic
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup beef broth
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 tablespoon water
Salt to taste
1. Pat meat dry; sprinkle 1 teaspoon of blackening spice over one side. Press into the meat. Lightly coat the surface with vegetable oil. Turn the steak and repeat. Set meat aside. Heat oven to 325 degrees.
2. Place a large frying pan with a heavy bottom, preferably cast-iron, over medium heat. When hot, add the steak and sear one side until well browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and sear the second side. Turn again, add the broth to the pan; heat to a boil.
3. Transfer the pan to the oven. Cook, uncovered, 35 to 40 minutes for medium rare and 40 to 45 minutes for medium.
4. Transfer the meat to a cutting board and let rest 5 to 10 minutes. Pour the broth into a small saucepan and skim off the fat that rises to the surface. Combine the cornstarch and 1 tablespoon water in a small dish. Heat the broth to a boil over medium heat; add the cornstarch mixture and stir until mixture thickens into a thin gravy. Taste and add salt and a little blackening spice, if desired.
5. Slice the meat into long strips across the grain, arrange on plates and moisten the meat with the gravy.
Nutrition information per serving (based on 6):
Calories………… 500 Fat………….. 38 g Cholesterol…….130 mg
Sodium……….. 145 mg Carbohydrates….. 1 g Protein………… 35 g
GRILLED SKIRT STEAK WITH ASIAN SALAD
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Marinating time: 2 to 3 hours
Cooking time: 5 to 6 minutes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Steak:
1 1/4 pounds skirt steak
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup rice wine or dry white wine
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 teaspoons peeled, minced fresh ginger
1/4 cup finely chopped green onions
Salad:
8 cups mixed lettuces such as mesclun
1/2 teaspoon each: five-spice powder, freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon each: soy sauce, rice wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1. Cut steak in half crosswise and place it in a shallow dish just large enough to hold the meat in a single layer.
2. Combine soy sauce, rice wine, rice vinegar, ginger and green onions in a small bowl. Stir well and pour over the meat. Cover and refrigerate 2 to 3 hours, turning the steaks once.
3. For salad, place greens in a large salad bowl. Combine five-spice powder and black pepper in a small bowl. Slowly stir in the soy sauce; add vinegars and slowly stir in the oil. Set dressing aside.
4. Prepare an outdoor grill or heat a broiler. Take the meat from the marinade and pat it dry. Grill or broil the meat, 6 inches from the heat source, until one side is browned, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook the meat 2 minutes longer for medium rare or 3 minutes for medium.
5. Transfer steaks to a cutting board. Allow to rest 5 minutes. Cut across the grain on a diagonal into thin slices.
6. Pour dressing over the greens and toss. Arrange a bed of salad on plates; top with sliced skirt steak and serve.
Nutrition information per serving (based on 4
Calories……….. 340 Fat……………. 21 g Cholesterol…… 75 mg
Sodium………. 890 mg Carbohydrates……. 5 g Protein……….. 32 g
