Chicago always has been a wet town, wetter in fact than cities with considerably more rainfall. This was especially true during the supposedly dry days of Prohibition, the “Great Experiment” that fizzled. And no sooner were Al Capone and the speakeasy transported to the far side of the River Styx than the city’s bars, taverns and clubs reclaimed their place in the fabric of society. (The saloon did not, however. The use of that inflammatory word was banned by presidential decree.)
At various times since, the creation and consumption of alcoholic beverages have reached the level of art form in Chicago’s bars. Convention visitors and local residents planning to tour Chicago landmarks might consider a stop at one of the watering holes that follow. They are bars that represent various facets of Chicago’s personality and offer decent food, providing fodder for the body as well as the mind.
The Berghoff
Almost a century old, the Berghoff was packed on the day Prohibition ended and has a memorable photograph on view to prove it. The vast barroom next to the dining room is a classic. There’s no furniture except several chest-high tables and a magnificent bar that runs nearly the length of the room. (Everyone stands to drink and eat.) Sip the Berghoff’s own dark or light beer, bourbon or root beer and nosh on a superior sandwich of homemade rye bread and cut-to-order corned beef, ham or bratwurst. Daytime only. (17 W. Adams St., 312-427-3170)
Billy Goat’s Tavern
No one would dare call it “ambiance,” but the Salvation Army furniture, faded newspaper clippings and not-so-subtle odor of hamburger meat frying do add up to something more than the sum of their parts. Furthermore, that ill-dressed, over-tired group in the corner may be famous Chicago journalists–or tourists. There’s Schlitz on tap, the cook will double your chance of contracting heartburn by cooking you a “double cheezborger,” and for diversion there will be a sports event involving a Chicago team on the TV. (430 N. Michigan Ave., lower level, 312-222-1525)
Goose Island Brewing Co.
Chicago’s first, and most successful, modern microbrewery offers a very agreeable pub setting, with seating inside and out during warm weather. Half-a-dozen or so Goose Island brews are on tap, including the popular Honkers Ale, plus beers of merit from several other producers. Tasting portions are available for those seeking enlightenment through comparison. The menu includes standard pub grub such as hamburgers and more ambitious fare that includes beer-flavored stews, seafood and even desserts. (1800 N. Clybourn Ave., 312-915-0071)
Harry Caray’s
This is a bar that works in the city that works. People are drawn to Caray’s by the promise of hefty, well-made drinks and the possibility of rubbing elbows with sports celebrities, including the Hall of Fame broadcaster/host himself. A sandwich cart annex next to the restaurant kitchen provides food in the bar until 4 p.m. daily. The sandwich menu includes prime rib, corned beef, turkey, grilled chicken breast and jumbo hot dogs. (33 W. Kinzie St., 312-465-9269)
Marche
This is one of Chicago’s liveliest see-and-be-seen restaurants, and the sizable bar area is a gathering place for the well-garbed and the well-groomed. In addition to trendy drinks and worthwhile wines by the glass, Marche’s full menu is available in the bar. The food is French-American bistro in style with aromatic chicken and lamb from a rotisserie and hearty made-on-premise desserts among the most popular choices.(833 W. Randolph St., 312-226-8399)
Metropole
A lovely, underutilized space just off the Fairmont’s lobby, the Metropole offers jazz, from contemporary to traditional, augmented by a smattering of blues and cabaret performers. Customers may order a hip martini variation and nibble hors d’oeuvres that include shrimp cocktail, fresh oysters, spring rolls and a combination plate with a Fairmont exclusive: medallions of ostrich on portobello mushroom caps. (Fairmont Hotel, 200 N. Columbus Drive, 312-565-7444)
Pops for Champagne
A trendy concept that stayed around to become a Chicago institution, Pops is the ultimate Champagne bar. The best names from France are on the list, as are sparkling wines from the New World. Offering a candle-lighted interior and garden seating in season and live soft jazz, Pops is a popular destination for couples with something to celebrate as well as wine aficionados. Appetizers such as grilled balsamic chicken pizza and roasted vegetable ravioli are available nightly along with a dessert selection. Pops serves brunch each Sunday. (2934 N. Sheffield Ave., 312-472-1000)
Red Lion Pub
Literary and theater types gather here, along with aging activists still telling tales of storming the barricades in ’68. Beer is the featured beverage, most of it coming from the United Kingdom. (“This is a Budweiser-free zone,” the bartender says with some pride. The menu has a British feel too. The fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, and steak and kidney pie are good, almost good enough to make one wonder why British cooking is so maligned. (2446 N. Lincoln Ave., 312-348-2695)
Shaw’s Blue Crab Lounge
Turn left upon entering Shaw’s and you are in a handsome seafood restaurant. Turn right and you will enter a lively, sometimes raucous setting dominated by a bar, behind which are shucked lots and lots of pristine oysters and clams from the Atlantic, Pacific and beyond. The Lounge offers other shellfish, short-order seafood items, chowders and sandwiches as well. Customers drink beer or shellfish-friendly wines by the glass or bottle. Live jazz, blues or rock music is served up Tuesday and Thursday evenings. (21 E. Hubbard St., 312-527-2722)
Toulouse Cognac Bar
Here is an intimate spot to catch performances by outstanding cabaret singers. Drink your dessert, chosen from top-of-the-line brandies and other postdinner spirits, or cross the hall between sets to nibble French pastry in the restaurant’s dining room. (Toulouse on the Park, 2140 N. Lincoln Park West, 312-665-9071)
Webster’s Wine Bar
Here’s a sure-to-please playground for wine-lovers. On a typical night, about 40 wines will be poured by the glass, or by the half-glass for comparative tastings. There’s a reserve bottle selection as well and a full bar for the enophobe. “Lite-bite” appetizers include cheese, pates, gourmet pizza and smoked salmon. (1480 W. Webster Ave., 312-868-0608)
