In two short years, Courtright’s has gone from being one of the south suburbs’ most promising restaurants to one of its most accomplished. Yet to hear owners Bill and Rebecca Courtright tell it, their charming restaurant still has a way to go.
That continuing ambition probably explains how Courtright’s has come so far, so quickly.
The dining room, which was pretty but obviously brand-new two years ago, seems warmer and more settled now. White linen, elegant glasses and fresh flowers decorate tables that are large and generously spaced. The dining room’s south wall is taken up by enormous picture windows that overlook a meticulously landscaped garden with gazebo; beyond that is a forest preserve and the occasional glimpse of deer. There isn’t a ground-level dining room with a prettier view anywhere.
The chef is Paul Tinaglia, who, with sous chef Aaron Aversa, oversees an American menu with a strong French component and an emphasis on game (so it’s possible to get a glimpse of deer on your plate, too).
For example, there is a mixed game grill, with a venison chop, wild boar chop and pan-seared medallions of ostrich; you get a nice range of textures from the butter-soft ostrich to the meaty boar, and an Australian shiraz sauce, which evokes images of untamed wilderness, is a clever and tasty accompaniment.
You also might find a venison chop paired with rabbit loin, sauced with a game stock infused with sun-dried cherries, or Muscovy duck breast with an apricot-game demiglace and saffron-tinged risotto. Capon breast, served in inch-thick slices stuffed with chestnut duxelle, is marvelous over a wild-mushroom and riesling reduction.
Fish and seafood are no less impressive. Chilean sea bass is served with a luscious champagne beurre rouge and basmati rice, the fragrant rice providing a nice counterpoint to the rich butter sauce; this is an outstanding dish. Grilled salmon, served on the rare side, comes with baby artichokes and a lively gooseberry papaya vinaigrette.
Frog legs and prawns make an interesting pairing, served with saffron linguini and an intense sea urchin butter sauce. Only the grilled swordfish with artichoke sauce was disappointing, and that was because the fish and sauce were drastically underseasoned.
Among the appetizers is a favorite of mine from the restaurant’s earlier days. Baked portobello mushroom with mascarpone-enriched polenta is a very tasty dish with a witty presentation; the firm polenta is shaped like a mushroom stem, and the portobello cap is balanced on top. Underneath, a cabernet-shallot sauce is a fine partner.
Courtright’s salads are too good to pass up. A poached pear and baby greens composition features warm brie studded with toasted pistacchios and a pleasant honey-ginger dressing. Fresh artichoke salad, with marinated hearts, roquefort cheese and haricots vert, is dressed with basil-infused olive oil. Best of the bunch is a roasted beet and orange salad, a complex assortment of tastes including red and golden beets, roasted shiitake muchrooms, Belgian endive, pomegranate seeds and an orange-basil vinaigrette.
Desserts are hard to resist. There’s a chocolate fantasy, a changing assortment that one night included white and dark chocolate mousses, chocolate cake with marmalade and a sliver of fudgy chocolate terrine. Apple sachet is a warm, phyllo-wrapped treat filled with apples, cinnamon and walnuts, served over caramel sauce. And the champagne-poached pear, filled with Grand Marnier-laced mascarpone cheese and covered in raspberry sauce and white chocolate, is wonderful.
And if you lack a sweet tooth, know that Courtright’s puts out a mean cheese plate — complete with a fact sheet, if you’re in a studious mood.
Courtright’s made a statement about its dedication to wine when it opened its doors, boasting a cellar of some 280 bottles, including 21 by-the-glass offerings. The wine cellar now holds 500 bottles, and Courtright’s offers 39 by the glass. And there’s plenty of room to grow. It might take a bit longer to peruse Courtright’s massive list, but for wine lovers, this is a very pleasant chore. Prices are more than fair, and the list includes a large selection at $30 and less.
Service, which was pretty good two years ago, is even better now — and excellent service is tough to come by in the suburbs. In-house training has a lot to do with it, but the Courtrights go further: Once a year, they treat their staffers to a dinner at one of Chicago’s top restaurants — they’ve been to Ambria, Everest, Le Francais and The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in two years — to let their waiters see what first-rate service looks like and feels like.
“We’re trying to give our customers four-star service, but we found that our waiters had never been to those restaurants as guests,” says Rebecca Courtright. “You can’t ask them to deliver what they haven’t themselves experienced.”
This is one reason why Coutright’s is going to be an excellent restaurant for a very long time.
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Courtright’s
(star) (star) (star)
8989 Archer Ave., Willow Springs
708-839-8000
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.,lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $15.95-$25.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Rating system
(star) (star) (star) (star) Outstanding
(star) (star) (star) Excellent
(star) (star) Very Good
(star) Good
Satisfactory
Unsatisfactory
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
