Don’t let all this talk about big shoulder pads, towering stiletto heels and indecent minis distract you from the good news for fall.
Suits takes a turn for the tailored. Sharper edges elbow aside wispy shapes. Trouser suits stride into power. Even when jackets and pants are borrowed from the boys, they’re given a feminine twist with accessories.
It’s a season that’s all about the mix. Of masculine and feminine, of hard and soft, of strict and romantic.
To help you sort through these mixed messages, we’ve chosen seven essentials for the season. Many of these pieces work together to form a core wardrobe. All of them will add oomph to what you already own.
1. TROUSER SUIT
This is your best basic building block for the season. Buy a pinstriped version in gray or black and you’ll hit nearly all of fall’s major trends. Shoulders now have a sharper, somewhat military edge, but they’re not the football pads of the ’80s. Jackets are fitted and just cover the hips. The newest trousers are man-tailored, with a tab waist and full legs.
2. CAMISOLE
A filmy camisole instantly softens a tailored suit or leather skirt for evening. For an extra dose of femininity, look for chiffon that’s patterned or lightly beaded. Most camisoles are cut straight across or they cross over in front. They’re meant to be worn out, not tucked in.
3. CARDIGAN
A lightweight version offers maximum mileage. For the most fashion impact, choose a style that fits close to the body in a rich shade of wine or brick. Button it up and let the cardigan solo over a slim skirt or slouchy trousers. For even more options, invest in a twinset variation with a camisole, tank or turtleneck underneath.
4. DELICATE ACCESSORIES
To pull together the mix of masculine and feminine elements, add in a piece of delicate jewelry. A necklace of intertwined flowers or colored stones helps fill in the bare expanse of skin above a camisole. Dangling earrings work well with a beaded chiffon dress.
5. LEATHER
Nothing sums up all of the contradictions of the season like leather. It’s hard-edged and sexy, yet soft and supple. First, dig out that leather skirt or pants from the back of the closet. Then look for one new item. First choice: a slim knee-length coat with a glossy finish that can act as an elongated blazer or a light coat. It’s a fresh shape over a knee-length dress, a slit skirt or slim trousers.
6. SLIT SKIRT
Although there’s a movement to bring back the mini, the best look is somewhere around the knee. Top it off with a fitted sweater or cardigan for an unstudied variation on the classic career girl outfit.
7. BOOTS
Designers showed calf-high boots in suede or a stretch fabric with everything in their collections, but they look best with skirts. Heels are higher and narrower. Take a pass on the stiletto versions.
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Resources
Black leather coat, $498, burgundy chiffon camisole, $98, Givenchy wool pinstripe jacket, $1,610, and pants, $1,040, silver/stone rings, $175 each; all from Barneys New York. Black slit skirt, $148, merino wool turtleneck, $88, cardigan, $98, silver/stone earrings, $158; all from Henri Bendel. Gucci boots, $575, DKNY burgundy velvet shell,$72, Anne Klein gray tweed skirt, $175, Jay Strongwater silver necklace, $180, rock earrings, $70; from Saks Fifth Avenue.
