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When it comes to providing soul-satisfying comfort, nothing tops an old-fashioned potato dish–as long as you don’t top it with butter and a big dollop of sour cream.

Sure, dressing up a plain potato without resorting to butter and cream is a challenge, but one worth tackling. Cottage cheese and buttermilk can replace sour cream and whipping cream as enrichments, while poached garlic cloves can compensate for much of the flavor contributed by butter in traditional mashed potatoes.

The microwave oven turns out be a surprising ally. It’s the best substitute for a deep fryer for making addictive, crisp chips.

MICROWAVE POTATO CHIPS

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Soaking time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: About 7 minutes per batch

Yield: 2 cups for 4 servings

1 pound red potatoes, unpeeled, scrubbed, sliced into 1/16-inch rounds

1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1. Place potato slices in large bowl and cover with cold water. Let soak 30 minutes. Drain potatoes and dry thoroughly on paper towels. Combine potatoes, oil and salt in medium bowl; toss to coat evenly.

2. Arrange some of the potatoes in a single layer on greased microwave-proof plate. Microwave, uncovered, on high 3 minutes. Turn slices over; continue microwaving until potatoes start to become crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Check frequently and rearrange slices as needed to prevent scorching. Transfer chips to another plate and allow to cool completely. (Chips will crisp up even more when cooled.) Meanwhile, repeat process with remaining potato slices. Store in an airtight container up to 3 days.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories ……. 120 Fat …………. 2 g Cholesterol .. 0 mg

Sodium …… 270 mg Carbohydrates .. 24 g Protein ……. 2 g

TWICE-BAKED GOAT CHEESE POTATOES

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour 30 minutes (oven); 50-60 minutes (microwave)

Yield: 6 servings

6 russet potatoes (6-8 ounces each), scrubbed

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste

3/4 cup low-fat (1 percent) cottage cheese

4 ounces creamy goat cheese, cut into pieces

1/3 cup sliced green onions

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Pierce potatoes with fork and wrap each in double thickness of microwave-safe paper towel. Microwave on high until soft when pinched, about 20 to 30 minutes, turning and rearranging potatoes half way through. (Or place pierced potatoes directly on oven rack and bake at 450 degrees 50 to 60 minutes.)

2. Heat oven to 425 degrees. As soon as potatoes are cool enough to handle, slice off top third (lengthwise) of each. Scoop potato flesh into medium bowl, reserving potato-skin shells. Sprinkle oil over potato flesh, season with salt and pepper; mash with potato masher.

3. Puree cottage cheese in food processor fitted with metal blade or in blender. Add goat cheese and process until smooth. Scrape cheese mixture into mashed potatoes mixture; mix with potato masher. Fold green onions and parsley into potato mixture. Taste and adjust seasonings. Mound potato filling into potato shells. Use tines of fork to give tops a decorative finish.

4. Set stuffed potatoes on baking sheet or in shallow baking dish. Bake until golden and heated through, 30 to 40 minutes.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories ……. 160 Fat …………. 7 g Cholesterol .. 10 mg

Sodium …… 190 mg Carbohydrates .. 28 g Protein ……. 10 g

THE MASTER MASH

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 20 minutes

Yield: 6 servings

2 pounds all-purpose potatoes, preferably Yukon Gold (4-6 medium), peeled, cut into 2-inch chunks

6 cloves garlic, peeled

Salt to taste

3/4 cup buttermilk

2 teaspoons olive oil or melted butter

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Place potatoes and garlic in large, heavy saucepan. Add water to cover and season with salt. Heat to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to medium and cook, covered, until very tender, 10 to 20 minutes. Drain potatoes and return to pan. Shake pan over low heat, uncovered, about 30 seconds to evaporate excess moisture. Remove from heat.

2. Combine buttermilk and oil in small saucepan. Warm gently over low heat. (Do not overheat buttermilk or it will curdle.)

3. Mash potatoes and garlic with potato masher, adding enough of the buttermilk mixture to make a smooth puree. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories …… 160 Fat …………. 2 g Cholesterol .. 1 mg

Sodium …… 40 mg Carbohydrates .. 33 g Protein ……. 4 g

OVEN-FRIED POTATOES AND SWEET POTATOES

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 30-35 minutes

Yield: 6 servings

1 pound each: all-purpose potatoes, sweet potatoes, scrubbed

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/4 teaspoon paprika

Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Cut each potato and sweet potato lengthwise into 8 wedges. Place potatoes and sweet potatoes in large bowl; toss with oil, paprika, salt and pepper.

2. Spread potatoes and sweet potatoes on greased baking sheet and bake 20 minutes. Loosen and turn potatoes; bake until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes longer.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories …… 170 Fat …………. 2 g Cholesterol .. 0 mg

Sodium …… 10 mg Carbohydrates .. 35 g Protein ……. 3 g